I have noticed that the area on the bottom of the rear is a little damp after I drive the car. I am pretty sure that its coolant and not oil. I also think I narrowed the source down to the "Hose A, oil cooler outlet" (PN 19423-PR7-A00). Its the hose that exits the top of the oil cooler and connects to a green tube under the rear bank. My question is: Should the rubber hose be pushed over the bulge in the green tube? The other oil cooler hose that connects to the silver tube appears to be pushed on to the metal tube a lot further. Hopefully the picture helps show what I am asking.
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Question about a suspected water leak
- Thread starter AEROBUFF
- Start date
Yes, in my opinion it should be past the tubing bulge and the clamp should be on the other side of the bulge as well.
91 NSX Red/Black
91 NSX Red/Black
Maybe yes, maybe no. As I vaguely recall, some of the coolant pipes have a double bulge (I don't know about this one). You push the hose end to the second bulge which then defines the clamping area for the hose (between the first and second bulges).
A simple test, take a needle nose plier and squeeze the hose right next to the clamp (on the side opposite the tube bulge). If you can squeeze the hose, there is no tube under the hose and the clamp is not clamping anything. In such case, as JW notes the hose and clamp need to be on the other side of the bulge - and count yourself lucky that the hose is still in place. If there is something solid under the hose, then you are probably OK. The best test is to release the clamp. If the hose slides back easily, you likely have a problem. If the hose is a hard pull, its probably clamped correctly.
After hoses have been in place for several years, they tend to bond to the metal tubing, If the hose was replaced by somebody who used a screwdriver to pry it loose, or a razor knife to cut the hose, they may have nicked the tube with the screwdriver blade / knife in which case it will likely weep forever. The best way to pry off stuck hoses is with a plastic trim removal tool.
A simple test, take a needle nose plier and squeeze the hose right next to the clamp (on the side opposite the tube bulge). If you can squeeze the hose, there is no tube under the hose and the clamp is not clamping anything. In such case, as JW notes the hose and clamp need to be on the other side of the bulge - and count yourself lucky that the hose is still in place. If there is something solid under the hose, then you are probably OK. The best test is to release the clamp. If the hose slides back easily, you likely have a problem. If the hose is a hard pull, its probably clamped correctly.
After hoses have been in place for several years, they tend to bond to the metal tubing, If the hose was replaced by somebody who used a screwdriver to pry it loose, or a razor knife to cut the hose, they may have nicked the tube with the screwdriver blade / knife in which case it will likely weep forever. The best way to pry off stuck hoses is with a plastic trim removal tool.
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As I recall from changing the coolant hoses Old Guy is right.
The metal tub in your pic had a double bulge and the clamp fits between the bulges.
I also recall I had to buy a few of the clamps you've shown as some of them had lost their tempering.
In addition to Old Guy's suggestions you could also slide the oem clamp back and install a screw type clamp.
If the new clamp stops the weeping you'll know what the problem is.
The metal tub in your pic had a double bulge and the clamp fits between the bulges.
I also recall I had to buy a few of the clamps you've shown as some of them had lost their tempering.
In addition to Old Guy's suggestions you could also slide the oem clamp back and install a screw type clamp.
If the new clamp stops the weeping you'll know what the problem is.
100% correct. The first bulge is at the leading edge of the pipe(for sealing), and the second smaller one is the stop for the hose. That hose actually does not look that old. When it is changed be sure to check the metal tube for any gouges, etc. Did the car ever have a hose replacement?
HTH,
LarryB
HTH,
LarryB
I took a look today and there is about an inch of the metal tube inside the rubber. So, I think the rubber hose is on correctly. I will try a screw clamp. To my knowledge, all of the houses are original.
If all your hoses are original you might as well change the weeping hose while you change the clamp.
Should also think about doing the rest of the hoses before you have a hose failure and end up stranded with an overheated engine.
Screw clamps, are not a good idea for this. Honda clamps are way better....
Regards,
LarryB
Regards,
LarryB
I will second that!
The slotted screw clamps from the local big box store are the worst. They will chew up the rubber under the clamp. Banded screw clamps or T bolt style banded clamps are better. They don't damage the hose. However, screw type or T bolt clamps all suffer from a problem. With time and heat the rubber under the clamp deforms causing relaxation of the bands clamping pressure which can lead to weeping at the connection. The design of the clamps that Honda and others use results in continued (although slightly reduced) clamping pressure if the rubber deforms under the clamp. This does not eliminate the possibility of weeping; but, greatly reduces it. With the screw type clamps you should recheck the connections in a couple of months because of the possibility of deformation of the rubber.
I understand that the banded clamps are convenient and don't require hose removal to replace like the OEM clamps. Also, in some of the spots on the NSX you will want to purchase one of those flexible cable operated clamp tools for removal and positioning, otherwise it is likely to be an exceedingly frustrating exercise with the OEM style clamp.
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