- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
Wanted to do a write up on my surge tank install and just go over what is needed in case anyone else wanted to install this vs drop the tank and rewire the fuel pump.
Some advantaged of running a surge tank:
1. No need to drop the tank
2. No need to rewire the fuel pump
3. Fuel tank sloshing and lean conditions under cornering are all but eliminated
4. Quick installation and changes in the future
5. Easy to remove and return back to stock
6. Somewhat modular can be setup from 500whp to 800+whp without the need to redo the entire system.
Disadvantages:
1. Price would be high for low horsepower setups, although can save money for high horsepower setups
2. Easiest place for installation requires removal of engine cover(can be mounted in other places that could keep this
3. Adds an additional pump rather than a single point for failure
Parts needed for install:
1 Radium auto surge tank with frame bracket and fully populated harness makes for very easy installation
1 12mm x 1.25 to -6 adapter(fuel filter)
1 -6 straight pushloc hose ends
2 45 degree -6 pushloc hose ends
1 180 or 120 degree -6 pushloc hose end
2 90 degree -6 pushloc hose ends
1 12mm banjo to -6 adapter(forward fuel rail)
2 5/16 to 3/8 barb adapters
1 6 foot section of russel twist lock -6 hose(~4 feet needed for install, I used 3/8 fuel line from advanced auto for my install)
1 section of wire to relay trigger
1 walbro 255 fuel pump
Approximate Cost from Radium auto and Jegs $850 including shipping for the surge tank, pump and all lines/hardware needed. It would be an additional ~$100 for an Aero 340 or Bosch 044.
I mounted the surge tank on the angle bracket(See #1) by the fuel filter as it fit rather well there, and was close to the fuel lines I was modifying. I still need to cut the bracket for a more permanent install this is holding well for now though.
Show below(See #1) is the general routing of the lines. We basically hijack the line going from the fuel filter and route it to the surge tank. I did this by removing banjo bolt going into the fuel filter and replaced with a 12mm x 1.25 to an -6 adapter(See #8). I removed the banjo nut on the fuel rail and replaced it with a 12mm to an -6 banjo(see #5). The walbro 255 inside the surge tank now supplies pressurized fuel to the rail. We also hijacked the return line from the fuel pressure regulator to the surge tank as well. I simply cut the factory return line in half(See #1 bottom left) and used 5/16 to 3/8 adapters as the factory line is 5/16 and my -6 line is 3/8. From the regulator I have the short piece of factory line then a 5/16 to 3/8 adapter and then my -6 hose going back to the surge tank. At the top most fitting on the surge tank I have the line coming out and going to the other end of the factor return hose which returns to the tank. This ensure that as long as the surge tank is full the overflow will go back to the stock tank.
So we have our factory tank keeping the surge tank full, and the surge tank supplying the fuel pressure needed for the motor. 2 Systems working together.
Wiring:
Radium Auto has a fully populated harness which is a great option, It comes with high quality wiring, loom, relay and fuse(See #6). Only 3 Wires need to be hooked up. Power, Ground, and the Relay trigger. Power is had from the engine bay fuse box. Ground can be hooked up to almost any bolt on the engine. I wired up my trigger from the fuel pump resistor box(See #9) This ensures that both pumps only work together or not at all rather than wiring it to accessory. I can't for the life of me find oem 2 pin Honda connectors or would not have cut into the factory part. Fortunately this resistor box is only $45 from the dealer so if i want 100% factory wiring it wouldn't be too bad.
This setup with a walbro 255 is capable of 500+whp, and with a bosch/340 600+whp on gasoline. Using 2 in tank walbro 255 and running seperate lines to each rail would support 800+whp. This would cost a bit more but would be very easy to install.
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
#7
#8
#9
Some advantaged of running a surge tank:
1. No need to drop the tank
2. No need to rewire the fuel pump
3. Fuel tank sloshing and lean conditions under cornering are all but eliminated
4. Quick installation and changes in the future
5. Easy to remove and return back to stock
6. Somewhat modular can be setup from 500whp to 800+whp without the need to redo the entire system.
Disadvantages:
1. Price would be high for low horsepower setups, although can save money for high horsepower setups
2. Easiest place for installation requires removal of engine cover(can be mounted in other places that could keep this
3. Adds an additional pump rather than a single point for failure
Parts needed for install:
1 Radium auto surge tank with frame bracket and fully populated harness makes for very easy installation
1 12mm x 1.25 to -6 adapter(fuel filter)
1 -6 straight pushloc hose ends
2 45 degree -6 pushloc hose ends
1 180 or 120 degree -6 pushloc hose end
2 90 degree -6 pushloc hose ends
1 12mm banjo to -6 adapter(forward fuel rail)
2 5/16 to 3/8 barb adapters
1 6 foot section of russel twist lock -6 hose(~4 feet needed for install, I used 3/8 fuel line from advanced auto for my install)
1 section of wire to relay trigger
1 walbro 255 fuel pump
Approximate Cost from Radium auto and Jegs $850 including shipping for the surge tank, pump and all lines/hardware needed. It would be an additional ~$100 for an Aero 340 or Bosch 044.
I mounted the surge tank on the angle bracket(See #1) by the fuel filter as it fit rather well there, and was close to the fuel lines I was modifying. I still need to cut the bracket for a more permanent install this is holding well for now though.
Show below(See #1) is the general routing of the lines. We basically hijack the line going from the fuel filter and route it to the surge tank. I did this by removing banjo bolt going into the fuel filter and replaced with a 12mm x 1.25 to an -6 adapter(See #8). I removed the banjo nut on the fuel rail and replaced it with a 12mm to an -6 banjo(see #5). The walbro 255 inside the surge tank now supplies pressurized fuel to the rail. We also hijacked the return line from the fuel pressure regulator to the surge tank as well. I simply cut the factory return line in half(See #1 bottom left) and used 5/16 to 3/8 adapters as the factory line is 5/16 and my -6 line is 3/8. From the regulator I have the short piece of factory line then a 5/16 to 3/8 adapter and then my -6 hose going back to the surge tank. At the top most fitting on the surge tank I have the line coming out and going to the other end of the factor return hose which returns to the tank. This ensure that as long as the surge tank is full the overflow will go back to the stock tank.
So we have our factory tank keeping the surge tank full, and the surge tank supplying the fuel pressure needed for the motor. 2 Systems working together.
Wiring:
Radium Auto has a fully populated harness which is a great option, It comes with high quality wiring, loom, relay and fuse(See #6). Only 3 Wires need to be hooked up. Power, Ground, and the Relay trigger. Power is had from the engine bay fuse box. Ground can be hooked up to almost any bolt on the engine. I wired up my trigger from the fuel pump resistor box(See #9) This ensures that both pumps only work together or not at all rather than wiring it to accessory. I can't for the life of me find oem 2 pin Honda connectors or would not have cut into the factory part. Fortunately this resistor box is only $45 from the dealer so if i want 100% factory wiring it wouldn't be too bad.
This setup with a walbro 255 is capable of 500+whp, and with a bosch/340 600+whp on gasoline. Using 2 in tank walbro 255 and running seperate lines to each rail would support 800+whp. This would cost a bit more but would be very easy to install.
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
#7
#8
#9
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