sandblasting ???

[jadkar]

I'm looking for someone who has some experience sandblasting...

Basically I'm going to be buying a sandblasting cabinet so I can blast all the suspension components for my CRX project. I think I have a good cabinet in mind, but I'm really confused about the type of blasting media I should use as well as the grit. After I strip the parts down I'm going to be priming them with a good rust inhibitor and then painting them "chassis satin black". I already have a siphon sandblaster that I used on some other things, but for the suspension parts I'd like to do them in a cabinet (I don't want my driveway to look like Jones Beach).

Here's the cabinet I have in mind.....
http://handsontools.com/store-produ...pening-Knock-Down-Blast-Cabinet_19151279.html

As far as the media I'm lost. Glass beads, aluminum oxide, walnut shells.. I really have no idea. I also don't know what grit to use.

Any suggestions on my cabinet choice and the media would be much appreciated

-John

 

[jadkar]

Wow...nobody

I could have sworn I read some thread a while back about some guy who was doing a color change on his NSX and went nuts media blasting his suspension. I searched and couldn't find his thread, but I was hoping he was going to chime in.

 

[White92]

Sorry nobody has responded. The only thing I have to add is that I don't think walnut shells will work on this project. They are usually used for shining spent brass shells. Hope someone else can chime in.

 

[clr1024]

jadkar,

Sorry not much help, have limited experience in sand blasting from some of my manufacturing days..but no expert. Maybe you should contact the author of this thread, as he is doing a nice job with his suspension components. believe its the one you are looking for. Think you should look at aluminum oxide though, walnut shells won't work though they do work well for cleaning fouling of gas turbines compressor blades though...but that is typically not hard scale type build up.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49438

Carl

 

[ahighland]

Check out www.eastwood.com

 

[KANE]

Hi glass bead or walnut/garnet mix will work fine, since the suspension is steel and not aluminum you don't have to worry as much about damaging the surface by using an abrasive media that is to coarse. Once the parts are stripped you may want to consider having them powder coated. Good luck with the project and post some pics!

 

[jadkar]

With glass bead what grit would you recommend?? Also, I was planning on using a rust inhibitor primer and then painting a few coats of flat chassis black from Eastwood. Do you think I should powder coat instead?? What do the auto manufacturers do??

Thanks for the input, here's my photo album of the car's progress. It should be real sweet and faster then my NSX when it's all done. It had better be I'm already way over the price of a FactorX turbo set-up The engine is a JDM ITR rebuilt with all TODA parts. She's gonna be all motor with a redline close to 9500 and 240 wheel HP. Not bad for 2000 pounds (traction will be a huge issue)

www.glasssphere.net/crx

PS...you need Macromedia Flash to view the site.

 

[T Bolen]

Hi jadkar - I have a 42" wide side entry cabinet from TIP Canfield Ohio. I just tried a search and can't find them anymore - maybe they are no longer in business. Too bad as they were very good with replacement parts.
Get the finest glass bead grit - it will do a good job unless you have really extreme rust. I have never used the walnut shells but it seems that they would wear out very soon. Plastic media is only recommended if you are doing a job that you may get some media inside an engine. We did a friend's assembled Honda 305 engine with the plastic and just plugged the intake and exhaust ports. It cleaned up pretty good, but took a while.
Glass bead will dull a polished aluminum surface, so be carefull there.
Some advice:
Get the biggest one you can afford - you will thank me later.
Make sure your air compressor can keep up - lots of air volume gets used. Minimum 5 HP, preferably dual stage and a big tank.
A good water separator is a must also.
The window to the cabinet is very important. Mine is glass and has plastic protective film to keep the abrasive from damaging the surface. The cabinet is no good if you cannot see your work.
Don't waste your money on the Eastwood paint - I have found it to be no better than Rustolium (sp?)that you can get at Depot.
Powder coating is the best for durability, but does cost a bit. If you can get it all done in one batch you will get the best deal. Also be aware that the coating shop must mask any critical machined areas that fit with other metal parts - bushings, tie rod holes, etc. The powder coating is thicker than paint and is very difficult to remove. I wasted several hours filing away some areas that the coater misunderstood.
You will find the blasting cabinet to be very handy - stupid stuff like restoring an old metal lamp - all very easy and fast with a blast cabinet.
Lastly - your parts MUST be oil and grease free before they go in the cabinet. Otherwise you will ruin the bead and it will clog up in the gun.
Hope this helps - good luck.

 

[T Bolen]

TIP Canfield Ohio. I just tried a search and can't find them anymore - maybe they are no longer in business.

Found 'em
http://www.tptools.com

Good stuff for the professional and DIY'er