Malibu....how big is your screen?
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Some console trim panel pictures - paint and refinishing
- Thread starter Malibu Rapper
- Start date
The screen is 6.5 inches. It's not Shaq sized but definitely adequate for our cars.
After seeing yours made me wanna do it to mine tooo. Would 7" be too big?
Malibu Rapper said:
As far as I'm aware, for double DIN units, the largest size currently is 7". I do think they can make one in a 7" but for now I think you're limited to the flip out units if you want to go 7". They don't look as clean once they are installed as the double DIN units IMO.
Did you ever get your Valentine all wired up?
Did you ever get your Valentine all wired up?
Call me silly..but what is a "DIN"? About the V1, thankssss again. It is good to go nicely hidden 
Malibu Rapper said:
PoohBEAR said:
DIN is the size of a regular stereo. Double DIN is like 2 DINs stacked on top of each other. The NSX stereo is double DIN in size so if you put a regular DIN sized stereo in it, you end up with extra space either above or below the stereo depending on how you mount it. If you want to use up all the space, you can put a double DIN stereo. Some people put in a single DIN sized unit, then put gauges where the extra space is.
This is regular DIN size:
This is a double DIN stereo:
I see, said the blind mouse Now I can start with my research.......
Now I can start with my research.......Malibu Rapper said:DIN is the size of a regular stereo. Double DIN is like 2 DINs stacked on top of each other. The NSX stereo is double DIN in size so if you put a regular DIN sized stereo in it, you end up with extra space either above or below the stereo depending on how you mount it. If you want to use up all the space, you can put a double DIN stereo. Some people put in a single DIN sized unit, then put gauges where the extra space is.
This is regular DIN size:
This is a double DIN stereo:
CalvinPoohBEAR said:I see, said the blind mouse
You looking for Nav as well of or just DVD/rear camera, etc?
Gene, I don't really need the nav. However, DVD,MP3, and Radio would be good. I think the Eclipse looks might good and clean.
SoCalDude said:
Consider the Kenwood 7015 as well. No built in nav and runs quite a bit less than the Eclipse. I had mine in for a few days now and love it.PoohBEAR said:
I saw it today as well at super autobac. it is pretty!!! did you install it yourself?[
QUOTE=SoCalDude]Consider the Kenwood 7015 as well. No built in nav and runs quite a bit less than the Eclipse. I had mine in for a few days now and love it.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=SoCalDude]Consider the Kenwood 7015 as well. No built in nav and runs quite a bit less than the Eclipse. I had mine in for a few days now and love it.[/QUOTE]
Did it myself with lots of advice from Malibu Rapper and D'Ecosse. I'll post some finished pictures soon. It's usuable right now but I'm going to spend a little more time making the fit cleaner looking.PoohBEAR said:
The price is not bad either. I picked up a new one on eBay for $825.
im having a difficult time repainting this same piece using the same spray paint. i've sanded everything down with 320 grit (note i didnt go to the same lengths of removing the original paint however, thats nuts!!! ). basically i have some chips where i had to use a screwdriver to push in the tabs under the vent section to pop it out.
i'm getting horrible ... i dunno, bubbling sort of... i spray the paint on but it kind of recedes from some parts of the area. see this pic to see what i mean. any ideas?
). basically i have some chips where i had to use a screwdriver to push in the tabs under the vent section to pop it out. i'm getting horrible ... i dunno, bubbling sort of... i spray the paint on but it kind of recedes from some parts of the area. see this pic to see what i mean. any ideas?
I know this is kinda like the "Did you turn on the computer" type questions you get when you call tech support but....
Did you primer your console first?
Also have you tried Squadron's Green Model Plane putty? You can usually buy the stuff in hobby stores. Its kinda like Bondo for your panel. Put it on the area thats need to be filled and then sand it down. I usually sand down with 150 grit 1st then 400, 800, 1500, 2000. It worked pretty good for me but it took a lot of sanding.
Did you primer your console first?
Also have you tried Squadron's Green Model Plane putty? You can usually buy the stuff in hobby stores. Its kinda like Bondo for your panel. Put it on the area thats need to be filled and then sand it down. I usually sand down with 150 grit 1st then 400, 800, 1500, 2000. It worked pretty good for me but it took a lot of sanding.
primer? i need to primer over the original paint? .
ok now what, too late to do that...... i was hoping to have my car back together today, guess i shouldn't plan on that.
. ok now what, too late to do that...... i was hoping to have my car back together today, guess i shouldn't plan on that.
Echo on the Primer Rob - you must have some reaction going on from the dis-similar paints; it's probably especially worse at any areas where you have exposed the metal because 1) it's not bonding to the metal & 2) probably getting under the exposed edge & reacting from under-side too.
A good sanding primer should work - but if you have any minor surface imperfections a Duplicolor product called "Filler Primer" builds really thick and you can cut it back quite a bit through sanding to give a really nice defect free surface for your top-coat. Make sure you 'Prime (every pun untended!)the whole piece, not just a local area.
I know it's possible (& probably preferred) to get appliction specific paints - I know there was some advice from pbassjo some time back if you search - but I've had good success with the DIY auomotive aerosols.
Tip - also do the vent piece to match: remove the centre grille section then paint the surround frame.
Allow good drying time before attempting to re-install so the paint is cured & hard.
A good sanding primer should work - but if you have any minor surface imperfections a Duplicolor product called "Filler Primer" builds really thick and you can cut it back quite a bit through sanding to give a really nice defect free surface for your top-coat. Make sure you 'Prime (every pun untended!)the whole piece, not just a local area.
I know it's possible (& probably preferred) to get appliction specific paints - I know there was some advice from pbassjo some time back if you search - but I've had good success with the DIY auomotive aerosols.
Tip - also do the vent piece to match: remove the centre grille section then paint the surround frame.
Allow good drying time before attempting to re-install so the paint is cured & hard.
You need to make sure everything is smooth after you primer the piece before you shoot paint on it. If I have any uneveness, I usually try to build a little primer on it and then sand it back down till it's smooth. If it's a dimple or deeper than I can build up on it, I'll smear some Bondo glazing putty on it, and then sand it down. Then I'll hit it with primer again and make sure everything is smooth.
sounds like i should just get some of your graffiti remover and start over. how hard was it to peel off all that paint after you used the jasco? looks like a mess!
is a 12oz can enough? you mentioned you used 2 cans, dunno how large they were. i was thinking of running out to home depot and grabbing this:
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdhaddemekdlglcgelceffdfgidgmj.0&MID=9876
damn, just reread the home depot thing and it says its available on the internet only.
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDU...ID=ccdhaddemekdlglcgelceffdfgidgmj.0&MID=9876
damn, just reread the home depot thing and it says its available on the internet only.
Removing the plastic paint and stuff with the Jasco was an absolute piece of cake. It literally just peeled right off. You didn't sand down to the white plastic at all did you? If not, then it is safe to use the Jasco. Jasco will eat plastic but not the finish that is on the console trim.
If you do it right, with primer and paint, you should be able to paint the whole thing with a single can. I always err on the safe side and buy 2 cans just in case. I just bought another can because I'm redoing mine.
I also bought a big tube of the Bondo glazing putty from Kragen. Total came out to be $8.81 for the paint and putty.
If you do it right, with primer and paint, you should be able to paint the whole thing with a single can. I always err on the safe side and buy 2 cans just in case. I just bought another can because I'm redoing mine.
I also bought a big tube of the Bondo glazing putty from Kragen. Total came out to be $8.81 for the paint and putty.
so i bought some graffiti remover... it removed the spray paint i put on no problem, but interestingly enough, it's not touching the factory paint. i probably bought the wrong type of primer, seeing the silver finish under the black paint (where it chipped) i thought this piece was metal (though i was rather surprised by that), so i bought metal primer. what sort of primer sticks to that metallic finish? metal? plastic? assuming of course i can get that paint removed.....
actually, im not sure if it took off the factory paint or not. what im left with looks like shiny black plastic, but there is still what looks like chrome underneath that. how many layers does this thing have?? i guess the next step is to go back to home depot and get some of the 'filler primer' you guys mentioned. i didn't grab that when i was there because i expected everything to come off down to the chrome with the graffiti remover.
update:
yes, it definitely took off the factory paint, it just threw me that it was still black, but in certain light it looks chrome... very interesting finish. still, theres a chrome finish underneath that as well. i just went and got the filler primer and will spray that tomorrow after the piece drys off from cleaning it. do i need to sand it at all before applying the primer, or just spray away?
<------- painting idiot
thanks!
update:
yes, it definitely took off the factory paint, it just threw me that it was still black, but in certain light it looks chrome... very interesting finish. still, theres a chrome finish underneath that as well. i just went and got the filler primer and will spray that tomorrow after the piece drys off from cleaning it. do i need to sand it at all before applying the primer, or just spray away?
<------- painting idiot
thanks!
Last edited:
robr said:
Prime away, don't sand. That chrome looking finish I believe is a nickel and it's unstable, tarnishes real easy.
Unless you have small surface imperfections, regular sanding primer should be fine (probably better) as opposed to the high-build filler primer.
After you apply the primer & it is thoroughly dry use some 800 grit paper keeping it wet. You can apply several coats of primer if you like with a light sanding between each one or maybe every other coat. Don't apply it too heavy all in one go!
Of course make sure it's thoroughly dry before applying your colour coat. If that felt trim edge is still on there that's going to absorb water so remove it first. You can use a hair dryer to ensure there's no damp spots anywhere prior to next coat after wet-sand. Drop down to 1000 grit on your final colour coat.
When I started doing these kind of projects I'd always tend to rush the paint - take your time allowing adequate prep & drying time between coats. If you get a run (as opposed to the complete non-adherence of the paint you had above), don't worry, no need to strip it again, just let it dry thoroughly & sand it down.
After you apply the primer & it is thoroughly dry use some 800 grit paper keeping it wet. You can apply several coats of primer if you like with a light sanding between each one or maybe every other coat. Don't apply it too heavy all in one go!
Of course make sure it's thoroughly dry before applying your colour coat. If that felt trim edge is still on there that's going to absorb water so remove it first. You can use a hair dryer to ensure there's no damp spots anywhere prior to next coat after wet-sand. Drop down to 1000 grit on your final colour coat.
When I started doing these kind of projects I'd always tend to rush the paint - take your time allowing adequate prep & drying time between coats. If you get a run (as opposed to the complete non-adherence of the paint you had above), don't worry, no need to strip it again, just let it dry thoroughly & sand it down.
Patience is key. Even after all the painting I've done, I still find myself rushing it. It's no fun watching paint dry. I paid for my impatience the last time around because when the console trim was exposed to a baking sun, the imperfections I thought would be covered by paint began to show their way through.
If you don't want to have to do it again, try to make sure there are no imperfections before you paint it. Look it over really good after your primer it. Only primer over the trim itself, Bondo, and glazing putty. For instance, if you sanded down to where your adhesive is, do not primer over the adhesive because the adhesive will most likely expand and contract with heat and it will show up. Bondo and glazing putty were made to be painted over. Hotmelt glue and epoxies were not. Fill in every dimple and irregularity with glazing putty and sand it off. Do not think that spraying primer and paint over it will fill it in or any other surface abnormality for that matter. When you use glazing putty, it's important to really smoosh it down into the areas. You can go to a Starbucks and get some free wooden swizzle sticks that are perfect for smearing the putty.
I bought a little mouse sander over the weekend and what a great little power tool it is. It beats sanding by hand! There are still some situations where you have to hand sand. But for doing stuff with the glazing putty and sanding down the Bondo, I don't know how I ever lived without it.
One last and VERY important tip. That top vent has a piece of felt or fabric that is glued to it at the bottom part where it meets the console trim. It's easy to take it off when you're painting the vent but it's also really important to replace it. If you do not put something soft behind it, the dash movement during driving and from heat/cold expansion will make it scratch into your console trim. I've had this happen and have seen it happen on other cars that have their trims painted.
If you don't want to have to do it again, try to make sure there are no imperfections before you paint it. Look it over really good after your primer it. Only primer over the trim itself, Bondo, and glazing putty. For instance, if you sanded down to where your adhesive is, do not primer over the adhesive because the adhesive will most likely expand and contract with heat and it will show up. Bondo and glazing putty were made to be painted over. Hotmelt glue and epoxies were not.
Fill in every dimple and irregularity with glazing putty and sand it off. Do not think that spraying primer and paint over it will fill it in or any other surface abnormality for that matter. When you use glazing putty, it's important to really smoosh it down into the areas. You can go to a Starbucks and get some free wooden swizzle sticks that are perfect for smearing the putty.I bought a little mouse sander over the weekend and what a great little power tool it is. It beats sanding by hand! There are still some situations where you have to hand sand. But for doing stuff with the glazing putty and sanding down the Bondo, I don't know how I ever lived without it.
One last and VERY important tip. That top vent has a piece of felt or fabric that is glued to it at the bottom part where it meets the console trim. It's easy to take it off when you're painting the vent but it's also really important to replace it. If you do not put something soft behind it, the dash movement during driving and from heat/cold expansion will make it scratch into your console trim. I've had this happen and have seen it happen on other cars that have their trims painted.
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