Hello all. I had an accident in my NSX and caused some extensive underbody/suspension damage. My shocks are old and due to be replaced anyway, even though insurance didn't seem to think there was an issue apparently. The question is....if I replace the springs/shocks at the same time, before alignment is done is a big reason why, plus the front end will be apart for this anyway. However, the dealer is saying it's like 2.5 hours of labor at each wheel to replace these...labor only! I found a full set of OEM with low miles that I would lke to replace them with. So they say like $1000 in labor only just to replace. That seems odd to me. Does that seem right? I am thinking that I could do it myself down the road instead, I have done it on previous cars. I know the suspension is more complex than most, but doesn't appear to be that much more difficult from what I can see, am I wrong? Not sure. Suggestions and or comments regarding this replacement would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Spring/Shocks replacement labor question
- Thread starter tmc/nsx
- Start date
I am sure they quote you the standard estimated time-expense rate even though it might take less. I swapped my shocks out myself and it was the first major mechanical thing I had done on any car. Since you already seem to be mechanically inclined should be painless for you as long as you have the factory manual. The suspension maybe be complex in design but replacing the shocks is fairly strightforward even if it involves a lot of grunting and swearing.
It should typically take around an hour or less for each wheel if you have all the tools and the shock/spring assembled.
If you need to also disassemble the shock/spring assy and/or file stuff, it will take longer. It has it's risks including cut arms and the potential to squeeze the grease outta the links and maybe buggering something if a crow-bar slips. However, I personally feel that it is worth it. Took me a while to get over the paranoia of expecting to see my rear susp on the road behind you since I mustve screwed up somewhere. However after 20k+ miles on my new shocks, my car is still in one piece ;-).
Search should reveal several superbly illustrated threads on the shock replacement therapy
. I spent 600$ on new Konis + used Zanardi springs. Maybe some 200$ for the tools required and did it myself in my after-work time spread over a few days.
-vamsi
It should typically take around an hour or less for each wheel if you have all the tools and the shock/spring assembled.
If you need to also disassemble the shock/spring assy and/or file stuff, it will take longer. It has it's risks including cut arms and the potential to squeeze the grease outta the links and maybe buggering something if a crow-bar slips. However, I personally feel that it is worth it. Took me a while to get over the paranoia of expecting to see my rear susp on the road behind you since I mustve screwed up somewhere. However after 20k+ miles on my new shocks, my car is still in one piece ;-).
Search should reveal several superbly illustrated threads on the shock replacement therapy
. I spent 600$ on new Konis + used Zanardi springs. Maybe some 200$ for the tools required and did it myself in my after-work time spread over a few days.-vamsi
The suspension system is complex, but just getting the strut assemblies out and disassembled is not all that daunting. Fairly straightforward probably if you've done others. It wasn't quite as easy as the manual would have you believe though. I found that the fully extended strut length on the fronts was greater than what the rest of the suspension travel allows for, so I had to compress the springs on the car before I could remove them. I wouldn't even pay $400 in labor to have them rebuilt, let alone $1000.
I got two quotes from Acura dealers for same thing and they were around 600-650 including the alignment. ($100 alignment)
Can prob find someone else thats better and doesn't charge as much as that.
I've done an engine swap (not NSX) and other things and I don't wanna try to change the suspension on the NSX. Rather pay someone and I don't have all the tools.
Can prob find someone else thats better and doesn't charge as much as that.
I've done an engine swap (not NSX) and other things and I don't wanna try to change the suspension on the NSX. Rather pay someone and I don't have all the tools.
Thanks for the replies! Sounds like something I will attempt myself. So I feel better knowing that that price quote for labor only is outragous. I will let them put my NSX back together first, which insurance is covering, and drive it then see how it is. Then perhaps attempt a little later. But I am correct that the alignment would need to be done again, right? or not necessarily? Thanks!
The OEM shocks are very difficult to get out...and it's very easy to damage surrounding parts like wheel sensors and CV boots.
If a shop is billing at $125/hr it wouldn't be unreasonable to charge $600+ for labor to R&R a set of shocks. Aftermarket shocks are so much easier to deal with because they are a critical +25mm shorter.
Though, there is no reason they should charge you extra if the suspension is already apart.
If a shop is billing at $125/hr it wouldn't be unreasonable to charge $600+ for labor to R&R a set of shocks. Aftermarket shocks are so much easier to deal with because they are a critical +25mm shorter.
Though, there is no reason they should charge you extra if the suspension is already apart.
TMC is your car at Mac Churchill right now?
Charlie
Charlie
Odenspike, actually it's currently at Caliber Collision. Then it's going back to Mac Churchill. Long story short, they have managed to not do any work on my car for 3 weeks it sat there while I was out of town, supposedly being worked on, but wasn't. So I spend half a day yelling and screaming at them about it. Caliber has their parts for the front end, upper and lower support beams for the radiator housing, etc. Then it's going back there for new control arms, tie rod, and several other mechanical things. They said they would have to take the front apart so I could have those done with no further charges than are already accounted for, but like another 500 to do the back, since the back suspension was ok, but cracked the oil pan back there. What a mess. Anyway, I believe the shocks are origonal from '92 but don't know for sure. But figured it was worth looking into considering the circumstances. I finally got the new wheels and tires thing figured out today. So hopefully another 1 1/2 weeks or so and I will be back on the road. Thanks!
tmc/nsx said:
PM sent! Yeah been there done that with Mac Churchill. Only person that took care of me was Chuck Peretti, but I just found out today he is no longer there. I just took my car there when it was underwarranty, but I wouldnt go back for more than an oil change now probably.
I hope caliber does a better job with painting then the shop they used to use Dynamic Collision, because they guys were a joke.
Yeah, my old service guy Kimmie left quite a while back and hasn't been the same since. I went as far as talking to Mac Churchill himself about this mess and gave him a piece of my mind. It's a shame really, they used to be great with me and my NSX. I am dissapointed with them, but they have all the parts there that I needed now, and it's an insurance thing too, so it's really too late to bail out on this repair. I had work done on my car at Caliber before, about 4 months ago. Someone did a hit and run on it in a parking lot. So it got fixed, and I had the front end, doors, bumpers, etc. painted too cause they were chipped up pretty bad and Caliber in Colleyville did a great job. I have had/heard nothing but good things about their work and service. Thanks again!
Daedalus said:
I just did my own 3 months ago...I didn't find much trouble removing the strut assemblies. A few tools and 4 hours...no problem:smile:
Perhaps the 2003 has less travel; the part numbers are different. I had the hub levered down until it bottomed out at the link with a solid clunk, and the strut/spring were still compressed. After compressing the spring on the car it still takes some finagling since the gas charge of the strut itself works to keep it extended. With the lower bolt removed and the hub pried down the strut is no longer compressed, but there is still not quite enough clearance at the top for removal. The "critical 25mm" Drew mentioned is exactly that. The shorter Bilsteins go in without issue.
Like most of the guy's are saying: it's very straight forward, just use the spring compressor to shorten the strut package a little when removing and installing if necessary. Pay yourself the 1K and enjoy blowing the cash on something else. It took me 5 hrs to R&R the four, and that was fighting the stock struts out, before I had the enlightned idea to use the spring compressor, which I was useing anyway to R&R the springs. Doing basic jobs like this get you under the car, and you can look over CV boots, oil leaks, etc. and maybe catch something before the shit hits the fan. Enjoy!
