The track schedule was put up in February, but unless you knew where it was, you'd never find it. It is HERE
Make it a sticky?
The track schedule was put up in February, but unless you knew where it was, you'd never find it. It is HERE
In the test from the the link I mentioned, they found the newer brakes were definitely better. The author eventually mounted a newer system on his older car and stated there was a marked improvement. With the upgraded brakes I was getting to 210 on the straight as I could stay on it longer with confidence. After the initial 3 or 4 days with stock stuff the discs vibrated something fierce and they just looked sick from the overheating. Its the open lapping days that really tested em!I dont know if my 02 has meaningfully better brakes than the older cars, but my stock set up (stock pads, stock fluid, stock calipers, stock rotors) was solid until I wore all that stuff out. I replaced it with upgraded pads and fluid, rest all stock. Have no issues braking coming down from 230kph down the straight into 8 and posting 1:36 to 1:38 lap times, lap after lap after lap. That is on my supercharged car. Prior to the charger, I had no issues with the full stock brakes coming down from 215ish kph. Never faded. Never ran out of brake.
Pro's dont break much for 8 and they scrub speed during the turn, but I dont get paid enough for running my fastest laps, actually it costs me cash, so I hit the brakes just a bit after the hump and enter 8 at a piddly 160 or so.
Mosport is not a braking track in cars either. Momentum.
I'd like to get an experienced NSX track driver in the car with me. I've got some decent seat time but need to work on carrying speed through the corners. My line is good, but I just need to get my speed up a bit. I'm working on that this coming Monday at Kensai.
no gearing down before 9? If i drop 2 before 8, I drop 2 again before 9. Otherwise if I drop 3 before 8, drop 1 before 9 to put me in second with lots of power. Remember the newer bikes - at least my Yamaha R6 redlines at over 16,000 and pulls hp until 15.........soo much different when trying to max the speed, gears, braking, etc. - We should switch bike/car.......any takers? Could win some money here:biggrin:
I downshift from 5th to 4th, just over the hump into 8, that's my "braking", then make the first apex (turtles) and I float (neutral throttle, just balance) to the concrete then lots of throttle to keep the back end in, break off early to give me a straight line between 8-9 (so I apex 9 four feet past the beginning of the turtles, and then long increasing apex on the gas) then stay on gas until I break a bit for 10 - hop hop hop through 10 (they should repave it) into front straight.
Wow Stu - when you talk about your driving, you sound fast. You write any other fiction?
You can avoid the vibration by bedding your pads and rotors properly. Read:After the initial 3 or 4 days with stock stuff the discs vibrated something fierce and they just looked sick from the overheating.
You can avoid the vibration by bedding your pads and rotors properly. Read:
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
I agree - the other issue is a "newbie" track guy issue - new drivers tend not to trust their brakes and ride them too long in the braking zone and even subconsciously into corners. (even advanced new to specific tracks do it as I learned watching some Genessee County BMW club advanced drivers go around Mosport as I caught up and passed them.
Expert drivers squeeze their brakes on and squeeze (gentle, straight line release) off. They do it later than newbies and more linearly. This causes less rotor heat, reduced brake fade and of course, less likelihood of warping the rotors.
You can avoid the vibration by bedding your pads and rotors properly. Read:
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
Bought the car with the stock stuff on it so I can only hope the bedding was done properly. It was a garage queen and looked pretty mint.
It caused me no problems until I got to an open tracking day where I ran plenty of continuous laps and started to get more aggressive coming into the turns.
Always did cool down laps to try to eliminate depositing at stand still.
According to the Stoptech article ,which I previously have read, it can be caused by overheating of the pads and the associated depositing of material on the rotors. So it seems to me that even if you bed things properly but then reach its limits in regards to heat you are still going to get depositing and the associated vibration.
When installing the new goodies I carefully followed the bedding in procedures and after a good solid day at Mosport, no problems whatsoever. Of course I greatly increased the cooling capabilities also which I feel was the most important issue.
I don't have personal experience with racing but isn't it true that you can be faster by out braking the competition? Does this lead to faster lap times or just the ability to get in front of the competitors?
I assumed it would be faster if you could come in quicker and brake as late as possible to get to the speed down to the max you car could handle for the given corner. I guess there are balance issues involved also but thats what makes it so difficult and fun.
I see this whole back and forth brake banter as a moot point. The NSX is a high performance car that is better than anyone of us. It is not a car that anyone of us is better than.
Im asking why people are reluctant to come to the track. After watching instructors beat the hell out of high performance cars they're lapping with, while in their stock civics or subaru rs' or whatever, I find it hard to believe that after a few track sessions, or even 100 track sessions, that "the stock NSX isnt good enough". That just cannot be the case. If it is, take your car to Acura, it needs servicing; not expensive parts.
Don't ask me. I've put over 12,000 actual track miles on my NSX, which is almost bone stock.Im asking why people are reluctant to come to the track. After watching instructors beat the hell out of high performance cars they're lapping with, while in their stock civics or subaru rs' or whatever, I find it hard to believe that after a few track sessions, or even 100 track sessions, that "the stock NSX isnt good enough". That just cannot be the case.
Also, at NSXPO 2004 we had a tech seminar on brakes from Cobalt Brake systems and another brake company. Their lead engineer basically told us that a stock set up will perform as well as aftermarket stuff in 90% of applications. If you track regularly he suggested upgrading the pads and that's about it. He had all the data to prove it to. Very very interesting.
Cooling down is really for rotors - you won't get depositing if you stop in neutral and DONT use your handbrake (they should take them out of cars!)
I'd agree cooling is the most important (relative cooling to what the pad is designed for) - what did you do to improve cooling? I'd expect your new brakes to last well and work well since you started correctly.
I see this whole back and forth brake banter as a moot point. The NSX is a high performance car that is better than anyone of us. It is not a car that anyone of us is better than.
I find it hard to believe that after a few track sessions, or even 100 track sessions, that "the stock NSX isnt good enough". That just cannot be the case. If it is, take your car to Acura, it needs servicing; not expensive parts.
Not necessarily. I left my splash guards on, cut a hole in them, welded a flange around the hole, and used it to attach a cooling duct running from the front air dam. :tongue:The extra air cooling is best achieved by removing the splash guards which protect the rotors.
No expensive parts on your car eh:wink:
Please excuse me, I just had a bad golf game