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What is considered high coolant temp?
- Thread starter nsxhk
- Start date
Yikes, need to look into the problem then. What could possibly cause such high coolant temp?
Here the mods to my 3.0L engine:
sos stage ? cam
sos valve springs + ti retainers
sos lma
Honda oem 3.2L metal multilayer head gasket
Mishimoto radiator
30/70 coolant mix
dali coolant tank
Could it be because I'm using the oem 3.2L metal head gasket(thinner)?
Rgds,
Henry.
Here the mods to my 3.0L engine:
sos stage ? cam
sos valve springs + ti retainers
sos lma
Honda oem 3.2L metal multilayer head gasket
Mishimoto radiator
30/70 coolant mix
dali coolant tank
Could it be because I'm using the oem 3.2L metal head gasket(thinner)?
Rgds,
Henry.
Last edited:
read through some of the overheating threads on this page http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/search.php?searchid=3970858&pp=50&page=2
My sensor is hooked up on a small hose out from the rear banks to the throttle. Don't ask me why, my mechanic did it.
Henry.
I've got to remember that for some reason if you link a whole search page,it expires
Henry there are alot of threads on overheating at the track,Hrant is a particular expert:wink: personaly I have never had issues and my radiator fins are all smashed up.Ok, so it's the hottest position.
Picture to be sure ?
On the dashboard, the stock gauge was in the red ?
The main problem is a bad flush.
http://www.nsxprime.com/wiki/Coolant_Flush_and_Fill
With the Mishimoto radiator, my temperature drop by 4-5°.
Going to the service manual the fan control cuts the condensor fans and AC compressor at 266F 130C. As long as you are below 266F I would say you are fine.
Yes, I believe it's the hottest position.
I'll try to take a pic.
I didn't get a chance to look at the oem gauge, I just look at my defi digital gauge so I don't know if it was in the red zone.
A bad flush, 50/50 chance.
Daily driving is totally fine.
Henry.
Thx Brian, that's sure is a relief!
Henry,
244F for water with a few laps is quite high but then again I am not an engineer!
A few questions.
What was the ambient temperature?
What was your oil temp? I am guessing you must have reached 280F-300F if water was 244F. If I recall you do have an oil cooler right?
Were you shifting at red line each time? [Short shifting at about 7K RPM does make a difference.]
Did you verify that the overflow cap was tightly secured (the double click)? What was the level in the overflow? Is it well pressurized?
Have you set your Defi to give you an alarm/warning after a certain threshold level is reached - like 220F?
244F for water with a few laps is quite high but then again I am not an engineer!
A few questions.
What was the ambient temperature?
What was your oil temp? I am guessing you must have reached 280F-300F if water was 244F. If I recall you do have an oil cooler right?
Were you shifting at red line each time? [Short shifting at about 7K RPM does make a difference.]
Did you verify that the overflow cap was tightly secured (the double click)? What was the level in the overflow? Is it well pressurized?
Have you set your Defi to give you an alarm/warning after a certain threshold level is reached - like 220F?
Ambient temperature was around 26c/80f.
Oil temp after a few laps was around 125-130c/257-266f.
Shifting between 7500-8000rpm
No, I didn't verify the overflow cap, my bad.
defi set to 110c for coolant, 125c for oil.
Henry.
Again, just based on my readings, something is a bit odd in here.
At 80F you should NOT be seeing these kind of numbers with a few laps or even a full 25 min session.
When I used to get close to 215-220F for water (happens only on days with ambient temp 90+F and pretty much redline shifts) my oil temp tended to get to 260F. So there is a gap of about 40F (and I too ran about 30/70 mix or thereabouts) with OEM radiator, oil cooler but no ducted hood back then. [I no longer track on days at 90+F, its worst on me than my NSX LOL!]
Your difference though between the two is only about 20F. Maybe this is the norm instead of the 40F that I used to see.
If the overflow cap was tight, and you have bled the radiator to make sure no air pockets/bubbles exist, and you know for sure the fan did kick, then perhaps you are right that you may have a leaking gasket. Unless you know that the gasket is the culprit, I would first start with the simple tests/diagnostics of the cap (perhaps you need to replace it?), level in overflow, bleed the radiator again ......
At 80F you should NOT be seeing these kind of numbers with a few laps or even a full 25 min session.
When I used to get close to 215-220F for water (happens only on days with ambient temp 90+F and pretty much redline shifts) my oil temp tended to get to 260F. So there is a gap of about 40F (and I too ran about 30/70 mix or thereabouts) with OEM radiator, oil cooler but no ducted hood back then. [I no longer track on days at 90+F, its worst on me than my NSX LOL!]
Your difference though between the two is only about 20F. Maybe this is the norm instead of the 40F that I used to see.
If the overflow cap was tight, and you have bled the radiator to make sure no air pockets/bubbles exist, and you know for sure the fan did kick, then perhaps you are right that you may have a leaking gasket. Unless you know that the gasket is the culprit, I would first start with the simple tests/diagnostics of the cap (perhaps you need to replace it?), level in overflow, bleed the radiator again ......
Re: Cool down laps are critical
Hrant and I were just talking Friday about high temps and I was recalling that the first track day I did at T-Hill was back in 2000 and it was 107F. Tom Kohrs and I were there with our NSXs (me a '92 and Tom had a '96, I think) and we had no overheating issues all day. I'd think something in your cooling system needs attention.
I run a rotary and I'm not sure if our overheating plan applies to conventional engines, but if we get hot (220F+), like in a tight race, where we have no option to back off, we just make sure we do a cool down lap or more and get the temps back down under 200F before we shut it off. The worst case would be to be red flagged, crash or otherwise abruptly stop without cooling down.
FYI, our rotary oil temps are about the same or slightly lower than water temps.
Hrant and I were just talking Friday about high temps and I was recalling that the first track day I did at T-Hill was back in 2000 and it was 107F. Tom Kohrs and I were there with our NSXs (me a '92 and Tom had a '96, I think) and we had no overheating issues all day. I'd think something in your cooling system needs attention.
I run a rotary and I'm not sure if our overheating plan applies to conventional engines, but if we get hot (220F+), like in a tight race, where we have no option to back off, we just make sure we do a cool down lap or more and get the temps back down under 200F before we shut it off. The worst case would be to be red flagged, crash or otherwise abruptly stop without cooling down.
FYI, our rotary oil temps are about the same or slightly lower than water temps.
