what kind of NSX can I build for $50k?

[Caustic]

So TURBO2GO's thread on finishing his mod list made me think. If I sold my 2002 today for $50k (completely reasonable @ 28k miles I believe) then buy an older NSX, how far could I go?

Well, the car would have to be cheap. Interior and exterior cosmetics will not be top notch. All I would really want is a good engine and a frame that has had no damage. Everything else is replaceable. Of course I would want the best NSX possible, and there are deals to be had, but lets say we start at the $25k range.

I think that puts me sqaurely in the 91-94 category. Higher miles. Questionable service. But still fully functional. For me, there are a couple upsides to this. Its the lightest of the available NSXs, and its a coupe!

So here is the breakdown:

25000 91 donor car

chassis
600 fcb
600 fstb
100 RSX-R lower chassis reinforcement
400 Carbing RSTB

suspension
2400 KW v3
200 NSX-R anti sway f
500 toe links
500 rear beam bushings
200 front clamps

brakes
2000 NA2 ABS upgrade
2100 stoptech front
3300 stoptech rear + ebrake

I/H/E
50 uni filter
260 big bore throttle body
1500 headers
600 hfc
1500 Taitec GTLW
900 engine mounts f+r+s
270 timing belt
500 hoses
700 harmonic balancer

drivetrain
2500 OS Giken differential + gears
1700 SoS Sport Clutch

wheels
2500 Advan RS
1000 Dunlop Star Spec

Total: $51,880

This doesn't include deals, taxes, labor. These numbers are not strict, and correct me where I may be wrong. This is just an exercise for me to think out loud and learn really, and I'm curious what people think. There are other things I left out, possibly HIDs, the interior and exterior wasn't touched. But, lets go through the existing list, because, I am already $2000 over the limit.

Chassis
Many people believe in reinforcement, others don't. My take is, it is a 20 year old aluminum car. It was a stiff chassis, and it has held up well, but everything is prone to wear. If you want the car to hold up for the next 20, there is every reason to try to help it get there. The total cost for the reinforcement is less than $2000. This is the least amount of any category. For the amount of money just spent, it is a nominal fee to help keep your chassis stiff.

Suspension
Nearly every piece of rubber or bushing has been replaced. It has an NSX-R sway. It is now suspended on one of the better coilovers that combines comfort and performance. For the most part, this new suspension is better than what most sportscars out there have. This will allow the NSX to corner and handle with cars 2 to 3 times its ($50k) price.

Money could definitely be saved here. Swapping the KW v3s for Bilsteins (or your choice of shock/spring) saves nearly $1800. But really, why not have a superior suspension?

Brakes
To me, this is a sorely needed upgrade. Not only are the NSX brakes small by today's standards, the 91 ABS is atrocious and the system is heavy. ABS upgrade is a no brainer and saves (correct me if I'm wrong) I think 20lbs.

Overall, this upgrade surprises me. It is not ultimately necessary, but will the NSX benefit from it? Yes, very much so. But is by far the most expensive upgrade of any category. $7400 is ludicrous and is a huge chunk of total upgrade costs. Consider the fact that this is the same cost as the AP-X turbo kit. But if you were to get a turbo, you would want better brakes, no? :wink:

I/H/E
There are things in here that you can give or take. Since there is a lot of work being done around the engine bay already, it seemed to make sense to get a bunch of things done. Things like the the throttle body, high flow cats, harmonic balancer may or may not be beneficial. But again, at the total prices we are at, these are nominal numbers and worth the extra to upgrade.

The rest seem like no brainer stuff. Exhaust and headers greatly improve engine breathing on the 91. The engine mounts have to be pretty tired after 20 years, and the car probably has high miles.

Drivetrain
Short gears, no short gears, blah blah blah. This is not a cheap upgrade either. It is not really necessary. But you now get a bulletproof differential and better gearing to boot.

There is money to be saved here. JDM short gears, NSX-R gears. Or, just leave what is already there. The clutch? Well, 20 year old car, questionable maintenance history, high miles. The likelyhood the clutch is on it last legs is high. Your mileage may vary.

Wheels
New wheels are mandatory. That is all.


So where does this leave me? It leaves me with a nearly fully revamped 91 NSX on the mechanical side of things. It will out ride, out handle, out break any other stock NSX out there, no matter how new. It will outdo most other sportscars in this regard too. It also makes close to the same power as the 02-05s with less weight. And all of it top shelf, brand new parts.

But there are a few things that weren't addressed. I haven't even talked about labor. The engine was never touched. Neither was the exterior or interior. I just dropped $27k on a 20 year old car, and the exterior may not up up to snuff. The side bolsters on the driver seat is beginning to tear. My engine may have issues in the near future. To me, this car seems far from done.

I tried hard to think of where to cut corners and save some cash to address these issues, and it is difficult. Brakes and drivetrain. If you skimp on those, it opens up a lot of other options. Route KS Madonna, CTSC, turbo, or even a full interior update. But I am not sure I would want to sacrifice brakes, and skimping on the differential and clutch won't get me very far to do other things besides the interior.

In the end, is all this worth it? Maybe. :smile:

 

[NSX R-GT]

lol
buy my car, i have almost EVERYTHING on your list!! and i have 02 conversion too, and in Championship White too!!

 

[Juice]

You also left out shipping.

 

[mlambert890]

Well its your (theoretical) money, but IMO brakes are a complete waste of cash.

I think the "deficiency" of the NSX brakes are massively overstated on the forums by folks who want a BBK for whatever reason (looks, bragging rights, etc) and then need to rationalize it because it is so massively expensive.

If you are running a modified car extensively at the track, then this is a different story and fade may start to become a real issue. Same goes if you are running a really highly modified car that totally changes the base characteristics.

Running a NA2 CTSC low boost, with stock brakes (just better fluid, ProjectMu pads and NSX-R rotors otherwise bone stock), I can say that the NSX brakes, on the street are *perfectly fine* and still better than a huge number of cars on the road.

For bench racing, or "bling bling" they dont "measure up" to 2011 supercar standards, but that is all BS IMO.

Also... why would you want to sell an 02 and go to a 1991 project car? I think you're going to be in it for *way* more than 52k before you're done and, ironically, probably end up with an 02 conversion.

What is your goal/use case?

 

[RYU]

long reply alert...

There's definitely a lot to chew on here. I think a big assumption you have to make with your list is that for $25k all the proper maintenance items have already been done (TB/WP, Coolant Hoses, Seals, and possibly a myriad of other things). I'm not sure if you can find one with all this done and still be at $25k... I could be wrong. haven't shopped around for coupes in a while.

I also went down this path which made me start this thread a while back http://nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149076 . It was actually good for ideas I didn't think about before.

I'd also (if it was my list) change some of your items like KW V3. I think there are better suspension for the money but that's just me.

Owning a pre02 car myself I'm not sure if the old ABS will really bother you that much. I think the bang for your buck there is not really that good. I'm even considering taking my ABS system off completely. So my opinion on that is not to consider that until way way later.

How about the popups? Do they bother you or are you ok with them? I think your list is short on aesthetic changes so i'm assuming you're ok with the NA1 look.

I'm also assuming you will farm out most of this labor. I think this is where sometimes it makes going with a newer car worth it where the updates you wanted to do are already installed on the new car. If you're like a few of us DIY'ers here who love to do the work ourselves a nice benefit is getting the job done the way you want it but also saving gobbs of money in the process.

Let me just say I think you're totally on the right track. I went thru the same thought process years ago. You could start with a $50k "new'ish" car that's better than an early model but not *that* much better relatively. Then still add $10-20k to get it where you'd like it to be. That's $70k total. OR you could start with sort of a blank canvas (bare bones early coupe $25+5k maint.) and spend maybe $20k on upgrades and updates and build your dream NSX for $15-20k less roughly while also taking of maintenance items in the process and have a lighter slightly stiffer coupe as well. ---> Thank god for Honda build quality. You can't even consider this in most other exotics.

 

[RYU]

Well its your (theoretical) money, but IMO brakes are a complete waste of cash.

I think the "deficiency" of the NSX brakes are massively overstated on the forums by folks who want a BBK for whatever reason (looks, bragging rights, etc) and then need to rationalize it because it is so massively expensive.

If you are running a modified car extensively at the track, then this is a different story and fade may start to become a real issue. Same goes if you are running a really highly modified car that totally changes the base characteristics.

Running a NA2 CTSC low boost, with stock brakes (just better fluid, ProjectMu pads and NSX-R rotors otherwise bone stock), I can say that the NSX brakes, on the street are *perfectly fine* and still better than a huge number of cars on the road.

For bench racing, or "bling bling" they dont "measure up" to 2011 supercar standards, but that is all BS IMO.

Also... why would you want to sell an 02 and go to a 1991 project car? I think you're going to be in it for *way* more than 52k before you're done and, ironically, probably end up with an 02 conversion.

What is your goal/use case?

Just my $0.02 on brakes...

I don't agree better brakes on the NSX is a waste of cash.

I do agree the deficiency of stock NSX brakes are overstated.

Upgrading the lines, pads, and rotors will make your brakes fine but they will not make them great. Try the brakes on an RS4 for example... those are great brakes. You can have 500hp on your NSX but if you're racing stoplight to stoplight you'll never really know what great brakes feel like (not saying this is you). Try the canyons and the track with a car with excellent brakes...wow. Hopefully you don't know what you're missing :biggrin:

 

[mlambert890]

Personally, I think an NA2 is a big difference in a lot of ways vs an NA1. I feel the difference immediately. It is also a big difference (and always will be) in terms of market value.

I also felt the 03 had a build quality difference I couldnt put my finger on that I definitely felt returning to a 99.

I think these are things you cant "make up for" on an older car, but they may or may not matter to each individual.

For someone planning to just gut the car, go with a stroker motor, or huge HP FI, completely replace brakes, clutch, suspension, etc. Then yeah, the NA2 vs NA1 difference becomes moot and it actually makes *more* sense to start with an NA1 since there are a ton of them and they are a fair bit cheaper. You can also start with a ratted out one and save it rather than ruining a valuable late model car.

This is *not* a "cheap route" though.

I think it again all comes back to what is the goal...

 

[RYU]

^^ I agree that the NA1 and NA2 feel significantly different, though i've never driven an 02+ so I can't comment on that. The biggest difference in driving sensation I noticed right away was the EPS and 6spd. I find no noticeable difference with the 3.2L at all but rather it's the gearing and shifter engagement that's so sweet on that car. You can address the 6spd issue on an NA1 but it's likely not feasible to install an EPS. A targa is also surprisingly stiff with the proper stiffening add-ons. There's also the wearable parts that are not so feasible to change out like suspension bushings. I'm sure a newer car will feel more buttoned up in this regard.

All in all, i'd still rather buy an early coupe since, to me you're starting with ~85% of the car you'd likely pay close to double for a newer one. I do agree it's all about your build goal at the end of the day.

 

[peiserg]

ugh. i don't like to think actively about what i've put into my NSX including maintenance and mods. off the top i'm guessing I'm past $50k in mods alone.

Built motor, SOS turbo. Previously BBSC with front mount, meth injection, nice gauges, FJO wideband. KWv3 suspension, exhaust. Wheels, tires. Blew the headgasket (years ago). Resprayed various panels many times due to chips. Low compliance bushings. race cats. MP3 mod, Smartenna. I'm sure theres stuff i've forgotten by now. Ugh. Something to be said for stock! Of course, every time i got whipped into shape by a v6 accord i'd be pissed. Hmm. Smile i got crushing the r6 cycle on the freeway last month? Worth $50k? Not sure, but it was fun.

 

[Honcho]

25000 91 donor car
You can probably find an "ok" one for 20,000, considering you are going to refresh it (- 5000)

chassis
600 fcb
600 fstb
Not necessary on a coupe ( - 600)
100 RSX-R lower chassis reinforcement
Not necessary if you use the STMPO front bar (- 100)
400 Carbing RSTB
Not necessary on a coupe. NA2 coupes don't even use it. OEM bar is fine ( - 400)

Bottom line, coupes are very rigid to begin with. About the only worthwhile mod is the FCB. Savings = 1,100

suspension
2400 KW v3
OEM Type-S ( - 1000)
200 NSX-R anti sway f
Only use if using NSX-R suspension. Otherwise go with Dali or SOS bars and fit to match suspension settings.
500 toe links
Arguably a track-only mod. Elimination of factory rubber bushings may affect comfort. ( - 500)
500 rear beam bushings
Arguably a track-only mod. Elimination of factory rubber bushings may affect comfort. ( - 500)
200 front clamps
Arguably a track-only mod. Elimination of factory complaince pivot may affect comfort. ( - 200)

Bottom line, your original list was really for a track car. For a slightly sportier car that may see a track day or two every season, you son't need all of the hard bushings and high-level adjustable KW suspension. The OEM Type-S is so good, even Keichi Tsuchiya didn't think it could be improved. Savings = 2200

brakes
2000 NA2 ABS upgrade
2100 stoptech front
Unnecessary if you are staying NA. Invest in stainless lines, good fluid and good pads. I use Project Mu pads on my "weak", "inadequate", "outdated", and "old" 91 brakes and everyone who has driven the car has been impressed with the stopping power. ( - 2100)
3300 stoptech rear + ebrake
See above. ( - 3300)
300 Master Cylinder
100 Stainless Lines
120 Project Mu Type NS front pads

Bottom line, BBKs are way overkill and bling for most drivers and cars. If you are Billy Johnson or Jenson Button and drive your NSX 10/10ths all the time with a SC or Turbo, then yes you need BBK. Otherwise, spend your hard earned cash on something more useful. Savings = 4,880

I/H/E
50 uni filter
Don't waste your money. OEM paper fliter is best for power and filtering ability. ( - 50)
260 big bore throttle body
Only useful for 3.2L and larger displacement, or SC/Turbo applications. ( - 260)
1500 headers
600 hfc
Not necessary for NA power. ( - 600)
1500 Taitec GTLW
900 engine mounts f+r+s
270 timing belt
500 hoses
700 harmonic balancer
250 Water Pump
50 Plugs
300 Gaskets (VC, Spool, Oil Filter, Cam Plugs/Seals)
200 Crank sensor
120 SOS Oil Sender Upgrade
300 Valve Adjust
50 Drive Belts
160 SOS Oil Pan Baffle

Bottom line, some of the money you saved above should be spent on the engine. If you want your old 91 to last another 20 years, it's worth doing at least a partial refresh. LarryB could probably do a tear down and rebuild/refresh for you for a good price. Cost = + 520

drivetrain
2500 OS Giken differential + gears
OS Giken is really a track-only mod. With NA power, the NSX-R diff upgrade is great- I have it with the short gears. (- 1200)
1700 SoS Sport Clutch
If your OEM 2-disc is fine, then it does not need to be replaced. It can be inspected during the trans service. ( - 1700)
500 R&R transmission, bearings, seals, synchros, etc.

Bottom line, short gears transform the NA1. I know- I have them. I had LarryB install the gears, R&R the trans (I needed a few bearings)and install the NSX-R diff mod. I basically have a brand new JDM-spec trans. Worth every penny. Savings = 2,400

wheels
2500 Advan RS
More personal taste, but I like 2002+ OEM. ( - 1000)
1000 Dunlop Star Spec

Bottom line, the bigger the wheel, the slower the NSX. Savings = 1,000

Total: $51,880

With my adjustments, you have a net savings of $16,060. I think I would spend about half of this on a cosmetic interior and exterior refresh, replacing any worn rubber parts, super-high level paint detail, seat recovers and a full interior refresh with new carpet and perhaps vinyl wrapped interior pieces. The NA1 NSX-R Alcantara look is nice... The other half would go toward an engine refresh and tune, perhaps an SOS 3.3L kit if there was enough money. You would end up with a STUNNING early NA1 that pulls and handles like it is factory fresh and would easily last another 20 years.

 

[Nero Tenebre]

I love this thread caustic, I had been thinking over the same things in recent months. Of course my main reason for wanting a coupe is only this: I want to do itbs and they will be the most beneficial on the lightest car possible, and can only be done on the coupes (not drive by wire). But, I am not thrilled about putting so much money into an older car which will need more unexpected stuff like a/c work and weatherstripping replaced. That stuff costs thousands on an NSX too. It's really kind of a toss up, the older cars are much better to mod if that's what you really are after, and will far outperform any newer stock NSX. That makes them a ton more fun. Also you will want to insure all your extra money in mods when you get to that point.

 

[Caustic]

Well its your (theoretical) money, but IMO brakes are a complete waste of cash.

I think the "deficiency" of the NSX brakes are massively overstated on the forums by folks who want a BBK for whatever reason (looks, bragging rights, etc) and then need to rationalize it because it is so massively expensive.

If you are running a modified car extensively at the track, then this is a different story and fade may start to become a real issue. Same goes if you are running a really highly modified car that totally changes the base characteristics.

Running a NA2 CTSC low boost, with stock brakes (just better fluid, ProjectMu pads and NSX-R rotors otherwise bone stock), I can say that the NSX brakes, on the street are *perfectly fine* and still better than a huge number of cars on the road.

For bench racing, or "bling bling" they dont "measure up" to 2011 supercar standards, but that is all BS IMO.

Also... why would you want to sell an 02 and go to a 1991 project car? I think you're going to be in it for *way* more than 52k before you're done and, ironically, probably end up with an 02 conversion.

What is your goal/use case?

Everything you state is absolutely true. You are not wrong at all. :biggrin:

But...

The NSX is a sports car. A performance based car. As such we expect it to outperform other cars in most every aspect. We want it to outperform other sports cars. There are a lot of things we don't need on a sports car to get us around on the street. 99% of sports car owners will never hit 8/10s or higher of its performance envelope.

But it's that performance envelop which directly affects how things feel and execute at mundane levels. I will never mistake my NSX for a 4 cylinder Hyundai Elantra from 0-60, or while entering or exiting a highway cloverleaf.

(Ignoring cosmetics and other wear items) the 91 I detailed in the first post will outperform my current 02 in almost every way for the same price.

Just my $0.02 on brakes...

I don't agree better brakes on the NSX is a waste of cash.

I do agree the deficiency of stock NSX brakes are overstated.

Upgrading the lines, pads, and rotors will make your brakes fine but they will not make them great. Try the brakes on an RS4 for example... those are great brakes. You can have 500hp on your NSX but if you're racing stoplight to stoplight you'll never really know what great brakes feel like (not saying this is you). Try the canyons and the track with a car with excellent brakes...wow. Hopefully you don't know what you're missing :biggrin:

This is exactly it.

 

[Caustic]

Also... why would you want to sell an 02 and go to a 1991 project car? I think you're going to be in it for *way* more than 52k before you're done and, ironically, probably end up with an 02 conversion.

Let me just say I think you're totally on the right track. I went thru the same thought process years ago. You could start with a $50k "new'ish" car that's better than an early model but not *that* much better relatively. Then still add $10-20k to get it where you'd like it to be. That's $70k total. OR you could start with sort of a blank canvas (bare bones early coupe $25+5k maint.) and spend maybe $20k on upgrades and updates and build your dream NSX for $15-20k less roughly while also taking of maintenance items in the process and have a lighter slightly stiffer coupe as well. ---> Thank god for Honda build quality. You can't even consider this in most other exotics.

I love this thread caustic, I had been thinking over the same things in recent months. Of course my main reason for wanting a coupe is only this: I want to do itbs and they will be the most beneficial on the lightest car possible, and can only be done on the coupes (not drive by wire). But, I am not thrilled about putting so much money into an older car which will need more unexpected stuff like a/c work and weatherstripping replaced. That stuff costs thousands on an NSX too. It's really kind of a toss up, the older cars are much better to mod if that's what you really are after, and will far outperform any newer stock NSX. That makes them a ton more fun. Also you will want to insure all your extra money in mods when you get to that point.

There are a few significant points here. Clearly goal is the main one. The fact that anyone would do this puts them in a very specific segment. Modder. There are different types of modders, a DIYer is an example. Most modders understand they will never recover what they put into it. So then the question really is, what platform will best serve you?

Honda build quality. I never really thought about it until Ryu mentioned it. This car is a great one no matter what year you have. Sometimes that is easy to forget. It sort of makes it worth putting the money and effort into. If you do it right, you have an awesome car that runs with serious new exotica in a classic shape and fantastic build quality.

Lastly, there are quite a few things I left out. mlambert890 is correct, in the end I will probably be into it for way more than the asking price of my 02. With a cheap 20 year old donor car there are many things to consider. Slow windows, weatherstripping, sensors, pumps, AC, interior, exterior, the list goes on. You may get lucky, you may not.


This exercise showed me that it may be feasible to accomplish what I want. There are a few downsides that I will really miss, EPS, 6 speed and the 02 update. None of those are cheap to accomplish if I really wanted to work it in. And ultimately, may be a deal breaker.

 

[RYU]

Based on mlambert's post I believe he tends to look at things from an economic perspective first. I can totally appreciate that and it's my natural tendency as well. But also to Caustic's point I realized a couple of years ago I love this car and can't foresee ever selling it and then it stops being an item in my portfolio but it becomes a source of happiness. How much are you willing to spend to be happy? Everyone has different thresholds.

On a similar point to get a car where you want it I look at the all-in costs. Yes, I fall under the modder/DIY'er. I've never left any of my cars stock (except maybe the Prius i'm about to buy). So in my example of building a newer'ish NSX at $70k vs. picking up an old one which may end up at $50k.. then you start thinking.. what else can you buy for $70k (an F-car, P-car?) and what else can you buy for $50k (really nothing that I can think of that will compare to a built NSX). So we all know where I ended up...

 

[stuntman]

Whats the purpose of this car?

Selling your low mileage, mint 02 for another daily driver? A full blown track/race car? A weekend toy/track car that you'll drive for fun every so often? etc...

How many track days have you done/do you plan on doing? How good are you?

 

[EIFFEL]

Keep in mind a heavily modded NSX will have a small pool of buyers when you are ready to sell and you may need to part it out to recoup your money. A NSX like the one proposed in unlikely to sell for more than 35k. So you would lose alot of money in doing the build. But the fun you will have will be priceless.(About 20k):wink:

 

[Caustic]

25000 91 donor car
You can probably find an "ok" one for 20,000, considering you are going to refresh it (- 5000)

chassis
600 fcb
600 fstb
Not necessary on a coupe ( - 600)
100 RSX-R lower chassis reinforcement
Not necessary if you use the STMPO front bar (- 100)
400 Carbing RSTB
Not necessary on a coupe. NA2 coupes don't even use it. OEM bar is fine ( - 400)

Bottom line, coupes are very rigid to begin with. About the only worthwhile mod is the FCB. Savings = 1,100

suspension
2400 KW v3
OEM Type-S ( - 1000)
200 NSX-R anti sway f
Only use if using NSX-R suspension. Otherwise go with Dali or SOS bars and fit to match suspension settings.
500 toe links
Arguably a track-only mod. Elimination of factory rubber bushings may affect comfort. ( - 500)
500 rear beam bushings
Arguably a track-only mod. Elimination of factory rubber bushings may affect comfort. ( - 500)
200 front clamps
Arguably a track-only mod. Elimination of factory complaince pivot may affect comfort. ( - 200)

Bottom line, your original list was really for a track car. For a slightly sportier car that may see a track day or two every season, you son't need all of the hard bushings and high-level adjustable KW suspension. The OEM Type-S is so good, even Keichi Tsuchiya didn't think it could be improved. Savings = 2200

brakes
2000 NA2 ABS upgrade
2100 stoptech front
Unnecessary if you are staying NA. Invest in stainless lines, good fluid and good pads. I use Project Mu pads on my "weak", "inadequate", "outdated", and "old" 91 brakes and everyone who has driven the car has been impressed with the stopping power. ( - 2100)
3300 stoptech rear + ebrake
See above. ( - 3300)
300 Master Cylinder
100 Stainless Lines
120 Project Mu Type NS front pads

Bottom line, BBKs are way overkill and bling for most drivers and cars. If you are Billy Johnson or Jenson Button and drive your NSX 10/10ths all the time with a SC or Turbo, then yes you need BBK. Otherwise, spend your hard earned cash on something more useful. Savings = 4,880

I/H/E
50 uni filter
Don't waste your money. OEM paper fliter is best for power and filtering ability. ( - 50)
260 big bore throttle body
Only useful for 3.2L and larger displacement, or SC/Turbo applications. ( - 260)
1500 headers
600 hfc
Not necessary for NA power. ( - 600)
1500 Taitec GTLW
900 engine mounts f+r+s
270 timing belt
500 hoses
700 harmonic balancer
250 Water Pump
50 Plugs
300 Gaskets (VC, Spool, Oil Filter, Cam Plugs/Seals)
200 Crank sensor
120 SOS Oil Sender Upgrade
300 Valve Adjust
50 Drive Belts
160 SOS Oil Pan Baffle

Bottom line, some of the money you saved above should be spent on the engine. If you want your old 91 to last another 20 years, it's worth doing at least a partial refresh. LarryB could probably do a tear down and rebuild/refresh for you for a good price. Cost = + 520

drivetrain
2500 OS Giken differential + gears
OS Giken is really a track-only mod. With NA power, the NSX-R diff upgrade is great- I have it with the short gears. (- 1200)
1700 SoS Sport Clutch
If your OEM 2-disc is fine, then it does not need to be replaced. It can be inspected during the trans service. ( - 1700)
500 R&R transmission, bearings, seals, synchros, etc.

Bottom line, short gears transform the NA1. I know- I have them. I had LarryB install the gears, R&R the trans (I needed a few bearings)and install the NSX-R diff mod. I basically have a brand new JDM-spec trans. Worth every penny. Savings = 2,400

wheels
2500 Advan RS
More personal taste, but I like 2002+ OEM. ( - 1000)
1000 Dunlop Star Spec

Bottom line, the bigger the wheel, the slower the NSX. Savings = 1,000

Total: $51,880

With my adjustments, you have a net savings of $16,060. I think I would spend about half of this on a cosmetic interior and exterior refresh, replacing any worn rubber parts, super-high level paint detail, seat recovers and a full interior refresh with new carpet and perhaps vinyl wrapped interior pieces. The NA1 NSX-R Alcantara look is nice... The other half would go toward an engine refresh and tune, perhaps an SOS 3.3L kit if there was enough money. You would end up with a STUNNING early NA1 that pulls and handles like it is factory fresh and would easily last another 20 years.

Great post, a lot of good stuff and information in there. When I was coming up with the list, I wanted to make an over engineered street/track car. If stuff was going to be replaced, why not replace it with parts that will last longer than OEM? But the alternatives you have here are certainly more than adequate and shave a significant amount for savings.

For the chassis, the NSX-R has an upper and lower bar. Even thought the STMPO FCB is great, you don't see a need for the lower one too like the NSX-R?

Not sure I agree with you the Type S is suspension is better than KW v3s, but it is a great alternative.

Maybe I missed something, but your drivetrain swap cost the same as the OS Giken swap. Why not just go for the Giken?

I think I may add the engine stuff you added to the original post. Significant and smart investment for not much cost.

 

[Caustic]

Whats the purpose of this car?

Selling your low mileage, mint 02 for another daily driver? A full blown track/race car? A weekend toy/track car that you'll drive for fun every so often? etc...

How many track days have you done/do you plan on doing? How good are you?

This is all really a big hypothetical. I'm not selling my 02, I have yet to get it back from Joe (Vince's Auto Body) with a nearly full visual NSX-R CF update. (Hopefully next week or 2? :biggrin

I just wondered to myself what would be possible if I wanted to make a car to track and street. And when the list got bigger and bigger, I figured Prime users might have a lot better input than what I was coming up with. Hence the post.

If there was a goal for the car, it would be to update the old tired pieces of a 91 to outperform an 05 in every way, to track it one or two weekends a month throughout the year, and take it to the beach and small road trips whenever. In that order.

 

[NSX R-GT]

91-96 with CTSC and heavy mod > Mint 02+!!!

NA1 with CTSC is fast, and u have the extra money to play around with exterior mod(02 conversion) and money for expensive suspension upgrade!
u get the looks and the speed with the same amount of money!

this is a great thing about NSX because the chassis will never DIE! just give the 20 years old body a fresh paint and it looks BRAND NEW again!

here is the best way to spend your $50,000:
get a good condition low km NA1 for maybe $30,000
spend 2500 on KWv3, 2500 for a set of Rays Wheels and tires, 5000 for supercharger, 2000 on BBK, and the rest 8000 on the 02+ front conversion
this you basically have a 02+, and it will perform better then a 02+!!

for me, i even put got the 6 speed conversion with 4.55 FD, which is prefect for street and track!
so, it depends on how far u are willing to go! and do u enjoy building it or just like to show off u have a "stock" nsx!!:biggrin:

 

[OneRedNSX]

Take your $50k and buy a zanardi that will still be worth $50k (or maybe more) in 5 years vs your na1 w/ $50k invested that would sell for around $35-$37k...

 

[NSX R-GT]

Take your $50k and buy a zanardi that will still be worth $50k (or maybe more) in 5 years vs your na1 w/ $50k invested that would sell for around $35-$37k...

i dont think he's looking to "invest" in the NSX, and cars are the worse thing for doing an investment on!

the whole point of modding a car is to make it looks better, perform better, and more suitable for "you". there's no fun driving a stock car which "everyone" can buy from the dealership...:frown:
the problem is this hobby will hurt your wallet, but that smile on the face after you leave the shop with new parts is priceless!:biggrin:

 

[RYU]

Take your $50k and buy a zanardi that will still be worth $50k (or maybe more) in 5 years vs your na1 w/ $50k invested that would sell for around $35-$37k...

I never really understood the appeal of a zanardi. I'd never buy one but if I was given one I'd be bored to death knowing anything I do to it would hurt its value. I feel the same about a cherry 02+. A type r on the other hand......

 

[SuperSonic]

i dont think he's looking to "invest" in the NSX, and cars are the worse thing for doing an

Not when you total them lol. But seriously, for 50 g.... Buy 91 and drop 25 k in motor and turbo. I think for an extra few grand you get what steve, the seattle dreamer has

 

[joboo]

I'll make it easy on you!

Let's trade?

My 1991 Berlina Black 425whp Angus Turbo built- lots of bells and whistle to make you smile!

 

[BD]

though i've never driven an 02+ so I can't comment on that.

Come and drive my !