DIY- Remove Ball-Studs From Trunk Struts to Re-use with New Struts

[NSXBill2]

Credit:
This method was described in another thread by OLDMNSX. I just followed his procedure and took pictures.

Overview:
When replacing your trunk struts, the new OEM struts do not include the Ball-Studs, which must be purchased separately, adding at least $20-30 to the parts cost. Most folks buy these because it is thought to be “impossible” to remove the ball-stud from the old strut without cutting the strut cup with a Dremel, or grinding it away with a grinder and possibly ruining the very part you are working so hard to save. The method I describe is pretty easy if you have a few simple tools.

Tools Required:
2 pick-type tools. It helps if they have angled ends. These can be dental-type pick tools or (in my case) picks with handles (set of 4 from Harbor Freight for $4-5). Either way, you need two. A vice to hold the strut while you are working with both hands is a huge plus.

Procedure:
Remove trunk struts per Wiki & put in vice if possible. Locate the split in the wire ring that holds the ball-stud in the strut cup. On the opposite side from the split, push down with one pick. Insert the second pick in the split and pry up, pulling one end of the ring wire out of the cup. Now take the first pick and insert it under the pried-up end, between the lip of the cup and the ring wire. Work this pick across the cup, next to the stud, pulling more of the wire out. Now simply rotate this pick around the stud, using the pick against the stud as leverage. Either the ring will pop out or you can pull the stud out with the ring still around it. Reinstall the ball-stud to side of trunk and snap your new OEM struts in place. It took about 10 minutes to get the first ring out and less than 5 min for the 2nd ring. Good luck!

 

[NSX2398]

Thanks for doing this write-up. I have added a pointer to it within the DIY Replacing Trunk Struts Wiki page.

 

[nukwar]

Removing Ball Struds from trunk struts

I to have struts that have gone bad on my 92 NSX. As I went to remove the ball, it felt like the nut inside the
fender was very loose so I was afraid to unscrew the ball off. Is this normal that the nut inside the fender feels
loose?

 

[nukwar]

I to have struts that have gone bad on my 92 NSX. As I went to remove the ball, it felt like the nut inside the
fender was very loose so I was afraid to unscrew the ball off. Is this normal that the nut inside the fender feels
loose?

I know that there are many other posts on removing the Trunk Stay Assy for the NSX. This is what I did to replace them on my NSX.


I at first taught that the Ball Stud was too loose as I was unscrewing it. It does tend to wobble but the nut on the inside of the fender stays in place. I did reuse the ball stud by removing the springs that held it into the old Open Stay Assy. I purchased a Hook and Scribe set from Advanced to help me get the spring out. Word of caution the set broke as I was using it.

The upper part of the Trunk Stay is held in by a 6mm E-Ring. This will come out with a #1 flat screw driver. Make sure you hold on to it so that the E-Ring does not fly off.
The part of the Stay that has the Ball Stud is removed with a 12 mm open end wrench. Remember Righty Tighty, Lefty Loosey or Clock Wise tightens and Counter Clock Wise Loosens.

I need to clarify that I am an American of Mexican decent. So my Mexican rig vice was a wood clamp. This held the Trunk Stay to my radial arm saw table while I removed the snap spring. You need to find the end point / start point on the spring. So I could see the spring better I sprayed the ball section with WD 40 to remove the remaining grease. You will have to stick a scribe into the cup of the Stay and move it around until you can see the spring and find the end point/ start point.

I stuck one scribe into the end point and placed the other scribe about half way around and held the spring from moving. With the scribe at the end point I lifted the spring and kept sliding the scribe under the spring towards the other scribe.
This process took me about 10 mins.

I cleaned the ball stud and snap it into the new Trunk Stay.

The other side took about the same time.
Good Luck.

 

[ftuhy]

Nice write-up. When I did mine, it seemed to take forever to remove the snap ring on the first unit as I struggled with the picks. Then I got the feel of it and the snap ring came out in seconds on the second unit.

 

[Jinks]

I took the easy route and paid the 20 bucks for new ball studs. Because I am lazy. :biggrin:

 

[FBDrill]

I wish I read this first, but with my specs on and a gentle zip cut in short bursts i was able to cut a slit exposing the ball and pop it out without damage. Hey the old ones I don't think you can rebuild so they are trash, right? Cheers

 

[solidol]

I wish I read this first, but with my specs on and a gentle zip cut in short bursts i was able to cut a slit exposing the ball and pop it out without damage. Hey the old ones I don't think you can rebuild so they are trash, right? Cheers

Sure you can: http://www.strutwise.com

 

[Roger59]

Yes Frank at strutwise is the guy to rebuild your struts.He even rebuild on that had the none ball stud flange blow apart on me from my 91. Luckily I had a spare on hand and did not have to carry a stick in my trunk.

 

[Jasweep]

This was so helpful! Taking advantage of down time in the cold Ohio winter days to do some maintenance. I tried to do surgery on the ball studs for about 20 min, but I bent two dental picks. I got the Dremel cutting tool out and made short work of the job after that. Now the new struts hold strong as close like butter!!