I have the same question....
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Downforce radiator duct? {new style}
- Thread starter davidf
- Start date
I have the same question....
A threaded rod replaces a bolt on the middle of the fan... It goes through the duct and a nut fits behind the duct. Thata how I did it and you need a metric rod. I can take pics. I have extra rod if anyone wants some... Of.... My rod. I knew this wouldn't sound right. Anyway... I'll snap some photos tomorrow. This metric rod isn't readily available I had to but 3 long ones to get just the 1/2 that I needed. Downforces own solution fails over time.
Since the downforce rod doesn't work and I'm not going to have room for the spare tire bracket anymore due to VRH, I'll take the extra rod please! Give me your rod Dave! Haha
[emoji23] whoah I didn't know you had so much rod to give out
How so ? DF provided the rod and that extender nut and bolts, so i used the fan mount solution. Think the plastic fan mount will break off ?
They may have changed this over time but what I received was not a threaded rod. It was a bolt that was JB welded. I forget the exact configuration now but that weld/glue or whatever it was came apart. I JB else's it back and over time it came apart again. I realized the solution is a rod and two nuts (I just can't get away from this joke) l. I'll take some pics today and post and also of the metric rod. Which anyone can have as long as they pay for the shipping.
For your information
The hood screen is installed into the worng direction.
This is how it should look
Please see pictures from KAZ (UK) blog side
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1563-Brake-OH-etc-06&goto=prev
The hood screen is installed into the worng direction.
This is how it should look
Please see pictures from KAZ (UK) blog side
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?1563-Brake-OH-etc-06&goto=prev
Thanks Turbo2Go. DF provided a threaded rod and two nuts. So they may have got it right now. I will have to take a closer look at the fan to see how the rod is supposed to attach.
I have my own method. PM your email, Ill send you a pic
Nice catch Detlef ! Good eye.
I was looking at the duct and I didn't see it. I still want to install one of those Type-R ducts on my VIS bonnet but i'm not sure they will fit or can be modified to work.
When I find out if they will, i'll be having one.
Oh yeah, back to the original post;
My duct came with the rod, (actually a hollow tube) with the nuts bonded inside it and the nuts just pulled out under tension.
I drilled the rod and the nut and inserted an aircraft s/s cotter pin, (split pin to some) some Pro-Seal and now no worries.
Nero;
As in post #2, what kind of hood do you have, please?
Cheers
nigel
I was looking at the duct and I didn't see it. I still want to install one of those Type-R ducts on my VIS bonnet but i'm not sure they will fit or can be modified to work.
When I find out if they will, i'll be having one.
Oh yeah, back to the original post;
My duct came with the rod, (actually a hollow tube) with the nuts bonded inside it and the nuts just pulled out under tension.
I drilled the rod and the nut and inserted an aircraft s/s cotter pin, (split pin to some) some Pro-Seal and now no worries.
Nero;
As in post #2, what kind of hood do you have, please?
Cheers
nigel
Last edited:
Is your rod really thin.:redface:
hahaha
Anyway here is a pic of what I currently use. This is a threaded metric steel rod that screws into a bolt hole at the center area of the engine fan replacing a bolt. It goes through the duct and on the other side I secured it with a fender washer and a wing not for easy removal. I heat shrinked the center of the rod to protect it from the elements. You could think of it as a condom for your rod. Hehe I highly recommend protection.
Anyway here is a pic of what I currently use. This is a threaded metric steel rod that screws into a bolt hole at the center area of the engine fan replacing a bolt. It goes through the duct and on the other side I secured it with a fender washer and a wing not for easy removal. I heat shrinked the center of the rod to protect it from the elements. You could think of it as a condom for your rod. Hehe I highly recommend protection.
Thanks Detlef I may get around to changing it nut I kinda like it this way too. Nigel I have the DF Carbob/Carbon hood
Where's you get that bracket? I removed the whole spare tire bar so I don't even have that to attach to
I made it :wink:
I didn't like the downforce one :frown:
I didn't like the downforce one :frown:
- Joined
- 9 December 2007
- Messages
- 1,702
With the help of [MENTION=8153]jagtiger[/MENTION], I was able to finally figure out how to mount this thing after not being able to figure it out after so much time.
It's very "un-elegant" of them to design it to mount this way but I suppose it is the easiest in terms of engineering and manufacturing. The way [MENTION=9191]03 raw nsx[/MENTION] has it is much better looking as it doesn't have a rod randomly in the middle of the duct. But it is what it is.
Here's the steps:
1) Remove the top most nut (1/3 nuts) with a 10mm socket (thin walled). I used a 3/8 ratchet a extended 10mm socket. It helps to have a magnetic tool to pull out the nut incase it is difficult to remove my hand out of where it sits.
2) Install the thread extender that is included with the duct. It is about an inch and silver. Tighten that down to where you removed the OEM nut previously.
3) Put on the duct
4) Thread the rod into the extender
5) Install and tighten the 10mm nut on the most outside of the duct which finally secures it.
It's very "un-elegant" of them to design it to mount this way but I suppose it is the easiest in terms of engineering and manufacturing. The way [MENTION=9191]03 raw nsx[/MENTION] has it is much better looking as it doesn't have a rod randomly in the middle of the duct. But it is what it is.
Here's the steps:
1) Remove the top most nut (1/3 nuts) with a 10mm socket (thin walled). I used a 3/8 ratchet a extended 10mm socket. It helps to have a magnetic tool to pull out the nut incase it is difficult to remove my hand out of where it sits.
2) Install the thread extender that is included with the duct. It is about an inch and silver. Tighten that down to where you removed the OEM nut previously.
3) Put on the duct
4) Thread the rod into the extender
5) Install and tighten the 10mm nut on the most outside of the duct which finally secures it.
FYI for anyone wanting to know more about the Type R Aero:
http://world.honda.com/NSX/technology/t3.html
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A front hood air duct:
the aerodynamic mechanism for creating downforce
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]At the rear, downforce is easily obtained using a wing-type spoiler. At the front, though, adding too big an aerodynamic device can negatively affect minimum ground clearance and/or the approach angle. Increased aerodynamic resistance resulting in reduced acceleration is also another example of the many problems associated with obtaining appropriate downforce in a road-going car.
The solution we chose was to design the underbody of the car as flat as possible to encourage smooth airflow under the car, maintaining airflow speed to create downforce. This method not only provides for adequate ground clearance and approach angle but also does not unduly increase the forward-protruding surface of the body. However, this led to a new problem: how to extract the airflow through the front radiator that had previously been channeled underneath the car?
Taking advantage of the car's mid-ship layout, an air duct was added in the front hood to provide the necessary extraction route. Longitudinal fins were also added to the outer left and right sides of the front under-cover tray to prevent the air passing under the car from entering the front wheel wells. Similarly, spats have been added to both sides of the air ducts to channel air passing through the ducts away from the wheel wells. The opening ratio under the front bumper has also been reduced to limit as much as possible the actual amount of air flowing through. All these innovations result in a smoother airflow both under the body and through the front hood, achieving the desired downforce.
No large aerodynamic appendage was required, helping maintain the original NSX's overall design and ensure a relatively low aerodynamic drag. Downforce was thus achieved without sacrificing top speed.
Wind tunnel tests have shown that when the car is at an angle relative to wind direction, the longitudinal fins of the front under-cover tray function in the same way as the chin spoiler, effectively reducing body lift and improving transient characteristics.
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http://world.honda.com/NSX/technology/t3.html
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]A front hood air duct:
the aerodynamic mechanism for creating downforce
[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]At the rear, downforce is easily obtained using a wing-type spoiler. At the front, though, adding too big an aerodynamic device can negatively affect minimum ground clearance and/or the approach angle. Increased aerodynamic resistance resulting in reduced acceleration is also another example of the many problems associated with obtaining appropriate downforce in a road-going car.
The solution we chose was to design the underbody of the car as flat as possible to encourage smooth airflow under the car, maintaining airflow speed to create downforce. This method not only provides for adequate ground clearance and approach angle but also does not unduly increase the forward-protruding surface of the body. However, this led to a new problem: how to extract the airflow through the front radiator that had previously been channeled underneath the car?
Taking advantage of the car's mid-ship layout, an air duct was added in the front hood to provide the necessary extraction route. Longitudinal fins were also added to the outer left and right sides of the front under-cover tray to prevent the air passing under the car from entering the front wheel wells. Similarly, spats have been added to both sides of the air ducts to channel air passing through the ducts away from the wheel wells. The opening ratio under the front bumper has also been reduced to limit as much as possible the actual amount of air flowing through. All these innovations result in a smoother airflow both under the body and through the front hood, achieving the desired downforce.
No large aerodynamic appendage was required, helping maintain the original NSX's overall design and ensure a relatively low aerodynamic drag. Downforce was thus achieved without sacrificing top speed.
Wind tunnel tests have shown that when the car is at an angle relative to wind direction, the longitudinal fins of the front under-cover tray function in the same way as the chin spoiler, effectively reducing body lift and improving transient characteristics.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wind tunnel testing[/FONT]
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]View of the underbody[/FONT]
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