Drivers Door Latch....Help

Joined
9 September 2000
Messages
454
Location
Thousand Oaks, Ca.
I just received my keyless entry kit from Tracy Townsend and promptly installed it on my '91. The installation went off without a hitch, But it doesn't work.
frown.gif


THE SYMPTOMS:
My OEM alarm system has not worked since I bought the car 3 years ago and more recently when I use the key to unlock the drivers door the passenger door does not unlock with it..?? BUT when I use the key to lock the car from the drivers door BOTH doors lock just fine! Additionally, Both doors lock and unlock with the key from the passenger side and with both interior lock buttons!

So I assume that the two are related and drive it to my local dealer this morning for diognostic service. My service writer just called and said that they believe that both problems may be caused by a malfunctioning drivers door latch and installing a new latch will run around $800.00!!!!
eek.gif
Because they have to disasemble the entire door!! and the lactch itself is $400.00.

Has anyone had a similar problem? OR... Has anyone had to replace this door latch? I trust the dealer but they do not discount parts one bit off retail. I will pay to have it done if needed to get my keyless entry & alarm working but would rather do it myself. Any advice would be appreciated
 
I've got the same situation, but I wouldn't say it's a problem. Many alarms don't like to automatically open the passenger door when unlocking the driver's door due to safety reasons.

As such, I've never thought that it might be malfunctioning.

Anyone else....?

------------------
tams1593.JPG


1995 NSX-T
1997 Integra GS-R 4-dr
1999 3.2TL
 
I have had both factory and aftermarket alarms that worked in the manner Nsxotic explained. The immediate benefit from this is that you are not always activating the passenger's door lock mechanism every time you unlock your vehicle; thus, putting more wear and tear on parts. There may have been a change in the circuitry that prevents both doors from unlocking at the same time. I actually wish my keyless entry worked this way. Hope you get it all fiqured out.

[This message has been edited by Chris W (edited 29 January 2001).]
 
I understand that the system was designed to work this way...it even works the same with the key (turn the drivers door key once and the drivers door unlocks...hold it or turn it again and the passenger door should unlock)

First. Neither my new keyless system OR the alarm doesn't work at all and the key in the drivers door only works for the drivers door, Problem is it (the key) never unlocks the passenger door. This in itself is not a problem (an inconvienance) but I would like the keyless and alarm systems to work.

Could the reason the alarm and keyless don't work all be related to the locking mechanism in the drivers door? Even though it (the locks) work with the key and interior buttons. And should it cost 8 big ones to repair?

If the door is open the dummy light on the dash even lights up, I would think the alarm system would check the same sensor before arming the system. Who's had their door apart?
confused.gif
 
Originally posted by FuryNSX:
I've got the same situation, but I wouldn't say it's a problem. Many alarms don't like to automatically open the passenger door when unlocking the driver's door due to safety reasons.

As such, I've never thought that it might be malfunctioning.

Fury, you say you have the same situation (with the locks I assume) but does your alarm and keyless systems work anyway?

Also where in So Cal R U? I'm in 1000 Oaks.


 
Craig,

Sorry I forgot to mention. The alarm does work as expected, but I don't have the keyless entry. I have thought about it, but I haven't pursued it yet.

I'll have to check if holding the key for a moment or turning it a second time unlocks the passenger door.

BTW, I live in San Diego.

I'll keep checking this post to see how it works out for you.



------------------
tams1593.JPG


1995 NSX-T
1997 Integra GS-R 4-dr
1999 3.2TL
 
I've helped some with keyless entry problems... As initial matter, you have referenced at least three subsystems, the door locks, the security alarm, and the keyless entry. These subsystems act dependently or independently in accordance with the failure mode of each subsystem.

The following describes how the doors lock and unlock using the ignition key in a 91.

1. Locking drivers door locks both doors.

2. Unlocking the drivers door unlocks it only.

3. Locking the passenger door locks both doors.

4. Unlocking the passenger door unlocks both doors.

There are no other variations. Thus, the locking system in your NSX is working perfectly. I believe it is quite reasonable to conclude that you do NOT need a new door latch.

However, the fact that your keyless entry system and panic alarm do not work indicates that the keyless entry module and its wiring should be checked.

Can you describe the test you made to try to activate the security alarm prior to the installation of the keyless remote?
 
"There are no other variations. Thus, the locking system in your NSX is working perfectly. I believe it is quite reasonable to conclude that you do NOT need a new door latch." THANK YOU!

However, the fact that your keyless entry system and panic alarm do not work indicates that the keyless entry module and its wiring should be checked. THE KEYLESS IS NEW. MY INSTALL AND THE UNIT HAVE BEEN CHECKED BY THE DEALER SVC TECH.

Can you describe the test you made to try to activate the security alarm prior to the installation of the keyless remote? BEFORE KEYLESS..ROLL UP WINDOWS SHUT AND LOCK DOORS WITH IGNITION KEY FROM DRIVERS SIDE...THE LED AT THE DOOR LOCK DOES NOT LIGHT AND THE ALARM DOES NOT SOUND WHEN OPENED FROM THE INSIDE. AFTER KEYLESS... I DONT KNOW THE SERVICE TECH AT MY DEALER ONLY SAID THAT HE HAD CHECK THE KEYLESS AND ALARM MODULES AND THEY CHECK OUT. HE WILL BE CHECKING THE DOOR LATCH ON MONDAY. HE SAID THERE IS A TEST HE CAN RUN PRIOR TO TEARING THE DOOR APART.
 
Craig:

With or without the keyless module, when you lock either the driver or passenger door with the key, the red LED on the drivers door should blink. This indicates the alarm system is armed.

I would suggest that the first thing you need to do is to troubleshoot the alarm. Once you get the red LED to blink, then you can move on to diagnosing the keyless entry. Indeed, by fixing the "arming function" the keyless remote may then work.

I'll check the electrical diagram for your car after the Superbowl. Maybe there is something simple like an open fuse that may be prohibiting you from arming the security system.
 
Craig:

Power for security control unit comes through fuse 18, Main Fuse Box. The PGM-FI main relay draws through this fuse as well, so power to the security control unit (unless there is a open wire) is not your problem.

I would have your tech check the "inputs" to the security control unit. For example, there are left and right door switches, which are separate from the electric door locks. These switches are an open circuit when the doors are closed. If either of these switches are stuck in the "closed" position, you will be unable to arm the security system and the LED won't blink.

Likewise, any one of the following switches -- engine compartment lid, hood, trunk latch -- if stuck in the closed position, will also prevent you from arming the security system.

Finally, A malfunctioning ignition key switch or trunk key cylinder switch will also prevent you from arming the security system.

Good luck.
 
Well, reading nsxman's discussion on the alarm, it looks my system is working properly. After locking the doors, the alarm LED begins blinks, and unlocking the car from the inside causes it to sound off. =)

Craig,
Yeah, I was seriously thinking about an MDX, but my wife and I are expecting a third child. That means two youngsters would be in some sort of child seat for a few years, forcing me to put them in the middle row and my oldest to jump over into the back. Having those baby seats prevents anyone from tilting forward the second row. Plus, that back row was unbearable for any normal size adult.
As such, for the most effective form of people hauling, we'll probably go with an Odyssey. And that way, I'll probably save about 15-20K off an MDX. That means more money for a kicking A/V setup in it, and bad ass wheels!!!
I honestly don't have any hang-ups about minivans, as long as they're made by Honda. =) Slap on a set of 18-inch wheels, and I'm good to go!!

------------------
tams1593.JPG


1995 NSX-T
1997 Integra GS-R 4-dr
1999 3.2TL
 
"Finally, A malfunctioning ignition key switch or trunk key cylinder switch will also prevent you from arming the security system."

YOU GOT IT, MY SVC TECH JUST CALLED AND SAID THE IGNITION SWITCH IS SENSING THE PRESENCE OF THE IGNITION KEY EVEN WHEN ITS REMOVED.
EVERYTHING WORKS FINE WHEN THE SWITCH IS BYPASSED. NOW I JUST HAVE TO COUGH UP $550.00 FOR THEM TO REPLACE THE IGNITION. OUCH!
frown.gif
BUT AT LEAST EVERY THING WILL NOW WORK AS INTENDED.

THANK FOR YOU HELP, I APPRECIATE IT!!
smile.gif


[This message has been edited by Craig (edited 29 January 2001).]
 
Back
Top