Nice car and awesome craftsmanship!
Aerodynamics is a tricky subject, and even time spent in wind tunnels can be misleading if you haven’t accounted for slip angles in turns, vehicle loading in turns, and vehicle ground motion/tire/wheel interactions. Then, you also need to take into account removing all that waste heat generated with a powerful engine. Already your coolant temps will probably increase a bit with the new front end – I haven’t calculated it, but I think the frontal area for your radiator is decreased slightly with the ‘02+ front end. That will certainly get worse for your transmission and oil temps if you do a full underbody.
I followed your build, and was impressed with your front hood venting design. The cowl is typically a high pressure area on cars (some musclecars in the 60’s boasted “cowl induction”), but without seeing NSX streamlines and pressure coefficients I can’t say whether or not it works better than venting ala NSX-R before the cowl. But, it looks like you have good exit venting area and the radiator exhaust is routed smoothly. If the bottom hasn’t been sealed yet (couldn’t tell from pictures), you should be OK with cooling and not forcing any extra air under the car.
The front splitter looks good too – not too low and deep to the point is causes excess drag. Unfortunately, while it is helping a little now, you aren’t getting nearly the full effect since you don’t have deep side skirts and flat underbody.
Same thing with your diffuser, except it’s probably not doing anything at all. The diffuser itself doesn’t generate downforce, it creates a lower pressure that acts on the area just in front of it. Pressure (P) is Force (F) divided by Area (A), P=F/A, so rearranging, F=P*A. So, you get more downforce if you have a more efficient diffuser (and minimal air leakage from the sides of the car – where low side skirts and full-face wheels come into play), and a greater surface area for that pressure to act on. Unfortunately, that little pressure generated by the Taitec diffuser is acting directly in front of it – the engine compartment that is basically all open. You need to have rigid, flat panels under there for your diffuser to generate force. The turbulence from the engine compartment basically breaks up and negates any beneficial effect. There’s feedback mechanisms of course, and all this stuff really needs to work together to be effective. Piecing it can be detrimental.
It’s a balancing act to allow enough air to flow through the engine compartment and exit through the trunk (like your design) to keep the engine cool, but you also don’t want all that air flowing under your body to be directed up through the engine compartment and out the back where it could be effectively utilized with your diffuser and underbody to generate downforce.
I would start with the front. Monitor coolant temps with just the new front end. Then seal off ther bottom front if you haven’t done so already and see what happens to temps (you have a nice vented cowl so maybe nothing). If temps rise excessively, I hate to say it, but try the NSX-R design but with a larger vent area and a smooth transition from the radiator (like you have for your cowl). Or, try cutting out the front bumper a little more for more flow area to the radiator.
Next, proceed to the deepest, non-rounded side skirts you can get away with without scraping in turns.
The next stage is the trickiest: balancing cooling, underbody sealing, and diffuser design so definitely leave that for last. Even before you do that, I would go with active aero on your rear wing as a simple, effective, cheap means to generate downforce without straightaway drag and cooling penalties. If you don’t have contact temperature data acquisition capabilities for the engine compartment, here’s a cheap four-channel contact thermocouple kit with logger ($300) with everything you need to get going (I think this comes with short 36” leads, but they sell a longer 5-pack for another $100):
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=HH309A&nav=
That site sells all kinds of cool stuff like LVDT’s you can mount on your suspension to track loading throughout the course – which at your level you should probably start to consider.
As a last and fine-tuning step, you can use canards for more front downforce and vortex generators before the rear wing and even on the underbody just before the diffuser.
Good luck!
Dave