Ignition Wire Replaced - Then No Power to Gauge Cluster

[MrHugo]

Need your help on troubleshooting this.....

So, I replaced the Ignition Wire because I encountered issue with starting the car and keeping the car running in the run position.

After I replaced the Ignition Wire, the instrument gauge cluster lights does not come on anymore. Nothing happens when I try to crank/start the engine.

I put the old one back and same thing happened, so I think something went wrong during the install.

My first guess is that I shorted something and blew a fuse related to the ignition wire when I was trying remove the old one. (I was stupid to remove it before unplugging it from the socket) I checked all the fuse and they all seems fine.

Currently the car does the following:

1) I can turn on the Headlights, which turns on the instrument cluster ambien lights.
2) The door and dome lights work, power seat works.
3) The clock have power after I press the button
4) Has the beeping sound when I input the key into ignition
5) The little fan inside console would turn on at the RUN position
6) None of the indicator lights ABS, Check engine, TCS, etc. (not even the lights for the doors open/close indicator) comes on from the cluster at the RUN position or any other position.
7) I can turn on the A/C console on the RUN position
8) At the start/crank position, all the electrical component shut off (i assume its normal) but no cracking nor any reaction from the engine components.
9) i check the 30 amp ignition switch fuse in the engine bay and seem fine
10) I have not replaced the main relay.




Thank you.

 

[Old Guy]

First off - don't fiddle with the main FI relay. A failed main FI relay will stop the engine form running; but, it won't stop the engine from cranking. Yours does not crank so your problem is someplace else.

Ignition Wire? I assume you mean ignition switch because that is what is in your photo.

The correct fuse to check for the starter motor circuit is the #29 50 amp fuse in the Main Relay Box in the front compartment. A failed #29 fuse not only kills the starter motor circuit it also kills the Ig1 circuit which I believe powers up the ECU and other critical stuff. This may be why you don't get indicator lights in the run position.

What model year do you have or more specifically does it have an immobilizer. The immobilizer antenna surrounds the ignition cylinder and I am wondering if it got bumped during the work. The immobilizer will block the engine from starting. I didn't think the immobilizer would prevent cranking; but, I don't have access to my service manual or owners manual so that particular detail eludes me right now. If your car does not have an immobilizer that eliminates that as a possible problem.

If the #29 fuse is blown, before replacing it I recommend that you check the operation of the ignition switch with a continuity tester. The procedure for checking the operation of the ignition switch is described in the electrical section of the service manual. If the new switch is OK, then remove the ground wire from the battery, install the new fuse and then reconnect the ground clamp on the battery. If you did damage something during your previous work and there is a solid short circuit someplace, its much better to have some sparking at the battery clamp than at the #29 fuse location. The #29 is a screw in PAL fuse and if you have sparking during installation you can damage the fuse mounting or at minimum screw up the threads on the mounting screw.

Even if the #29 fuse is OK I recommend that you do an operation check on the ignition switch as described in the service manual. A faulty new switch is unlikely; but, you need to rule it out as a cause first because the other causes are potentially a lot more work to address.

 

[MrHugo]

Hi Old Guy (no pun intended)

Thanks so much for your reply. I think it is indeed the 50a fuse. The multi meter cannot detect continuity. I am going to cross my finger before I install the new fuse. I will report back. Again. Thanks so much.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[03 raw nsx]

Thanks for keep NSX Prime a great source for troubleshooting :smile:

 

[mwagner10702]

That fuse looks blown.

 

[03 raw nsx]

That fuse looks blown.

When you can see it...you don't need a meter:redface:

 

[MrHugo]

Yes, it looks blown, but to my untrained eyes they all look very similar the first time I inspected it.

Thank you Old Guy and prime yet again solved another problem of mine.

To close the issue out: When I was removing the old ignition switch, I did not unplug and hit the back side of the switch to a metal component, causing a short and blew the 50 amp ignition fuse. I changed the fuse and TADA!, I drove to work today. Yeah!!

 

[docjohn]

prime rules FB blows...

 

[MrHugo]

prime rules FB blows...

FB has its use, but the content on Prime is high level. The Old Guy hit it right on the money for my issue.

For best of both worlds, create Thread here and link to FB page?

 

[Old Guy]

Yes, it looks blown, but to my untrained eyes they all look very similar the first time I inspected it.

Thank you Old Guy and prime yet again solved another problem of mine.

To close the issue out: When I was removing the old ignition switch, I did not unplug and hit the back side of the switch to a metal component, causing a short and blew the 50 amp ignition fuse. I changed the fuse and TADA!, I drove to work today. Yeah!!

Good that things worked out and that it was a relatively easy fix. Also that there were no further sparks on replacement of the fuse, otherwise we would have to change your user name to sparky2 since sparky is already in use.