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Intercooled blower
- Thread starter ken sampson
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He's looking for over 500RWHP with all the work & $$$ he's put into it....which @ 14-16psi with the TEC-3 tuned shouldn't be a problem at all**TopEnd said:
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I now have a date with the dyno wednesday the 8th. I made a few mod's to my pulley's. This puts me at about 10PSI. This should net about 500 HP. I am still working on getting other pulleys together to bring boost up to 16PSI.
I will post my dyno on next thursday. This will be the first tune since i supercharged the car so i'm really looking foward to just smoothing things out.
I will post my dyno on next thursday. This will be the first tune since i supercharged the car so i'm really looking foward to just smoothing things out.
ken sampson said:
Which establishment will you be dynoing at ? I would love to make it there to watch if you know roughly what time this will take place on the 8th.
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Re: Intercooled blower dyno data
I finally made it to the dyno see attached we had so much belt slippage at the higher RPM's that I will need to build new pulley's and should have them in a few weeks. Anyway the car is running great and the HP #'s are low due to we never could hit the higher rpm's with out slippage on the belt.
so the RWHP was 1st run 352HP - 325 lBS of TQ and second was 375HP -338.5 LBS of TQ the car did hit 15 PSI for boost and every thing was keeping cool. I guess if yo add about 15% for the drive train loss the HP is 431at the flywheel. I will post new test data when my new pulley's come in and I dyno again.
I finally made it to the dyno see attached we had so much belt slippage at the higher RPM's that I will need to build new pulley's and should have them in a few weeks. Anyway the car is running great and the HP #'s are low due to we never could hit the higher rpm's with out slippage on the belt.
so the RWHP was 1st run 352HP - 325 lBS of TQ and second was 375HP -338.5 LBS of TQ the car did hit 15 PSI for boost and every thing was keeping cool. I guess if yo add about 15% for the drive train loss the HP is 431at the flywheel. I will post new test data when my new pulley's come in and I dyno again.
How did you hit 15 lbs boost and not have bigger numbers? also if you got 15 lbs once why did the belt slip only part of the time? (assuming that that it is not a 20 lb pulley slipping to a net 15 lbs pressure)
just wondering. also with such a variance in boost for similar runs is it difficult to create a MAP with such extensive rpm/boost ranges?
just wondering. also with such a variance in boost for similar runs is it difficult to create a MAP with such extensive rpm/boost ranges?
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I'm not sure what you are asking. We did have a Tec-3 3 bar map sensor and a boost gauge we lost all power between 55k and 65k.
Are you going to have a sandblast 'tooth' on the drive surfaces of the new pulleys before they go to anodize? Might be a good bit of insurance against slippage to have a surface with a bit more traction. This is a simple way to reduce slippage with out increasing load on bearings from belt tension, only down side is faster belt wear, just a thought.
You might try this on the pulley you are replacing as a stop gap before the new pulleys arrive too.
Keep the info coming, I have been enjoying watching this process develop.
You might try this on the pulley you are replacing as a stop gap before the new pulleys arrive too.
Keep the info coming, I have been enjoying watching this process develop.
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My new crank pulley will have a 7" Dia i'm relocateing my oil filter housing. They will also be 8 groove not 5 i'm working on a new belt tenioner to give me more wrap. Every thing you do with these cars is custom so it takes time.
What are you doing to relocate the filter? I am working on a part that will replace the whole filter bracket/oil cooler assembly where it bolts on the block.
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Same thing. do you have yours off yet?
I am on my first set of drawings, ready to cut the first proto-type when I get time. It is a very simple part, just a block with 2 threaded fittings, one pointing straight out from the engine toward the right wheel(for a 90 degree fitting) and one pointing toward the rear of the car for a straight fitting. Uses the '8' o-ring on the block to seal it and shorter bolts to fill all the stock bolt locations.
I am doing another batch of short shifter blocks right now, will try to get the proto done to go to anodizing at the same time. Plan is to make this a standard part offering once I am up and running with it.
Dave
I am doing another batch of short shifter blocks right now, will try to get the proto done to go to anodizing at the same time. Plan is to make this a standard part offering once I am up and running with it.
Dave
titaniumdave said:
You can save yourself some machine time by using the oil galley threaded plug on the oil pump cover for your remote filter/cooler input. I think it's big enough to get a good sized AN fitting to work. You'll need to use a 90 to avoid the CV joint. The return will need your "butch plate" adapter, however. I think Ken would need this to be a 90 as well to clear his oversized crank pulley but you'd have to measure to make sure. mark
Mark,
I can get 2 AN12 fittings directly on my plate, plus it covers all the stock holes so it seems like a cleaner set up, plus it sits back and close to the block. Is there a functional advatage to the oil galley plug?
How's your car running after T-hill? I should have had you ask Andrie to drive your car, he is about your size. 20/20 hindsight :wink:
I can get 2 AN12 fittings directly on my plate, plus it covers all the stock holes so it seems like a cleaner set up, plus it sits back and close to the block. Is there a functional advatage to the oil galley plug?
How's your car running after T-hill? I should have had you ask Andrie to drive your car, he is about your size. 20/20 hindsight :wink:
WOODY said:
His belt started to slip around 5000-6000 RPMs. Without being able to rev past 6K I think his numbers are awesome. Keep in mid the car will make most of it's peak power past 7000 RPMs.
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Hey I just wanted to mention for all you local guys the company that did the dyno was Tempest racing 301-638-3000 they had a very nice dyno setup. They build custom turbo setups,Headers and so on.
Where in Md are they? and what dyno do the have?
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Waldorf MD. I'm not sure what type of dyno it's a two wheel type. Shop owner said it cost about 70K. They did a great job tuning in my TEC-3 with TBW.
titaniumdave said:
No, on other advantage besides less machining. T-hill was kinda intimidating for the first couple of sessions. On my 3rd (and last) session I was just starting to push it when I got a bad vibration from my left rear. I thought I cut a tire so I pulled into the pits. Tire was fine so I figured my wheel bearing or CV joint failed. Got home and put it on the rack and both sound/feel fine. Maybe I threw a wheel weight or delamed my tire. I'm gonna get both rears re-balanced just in case. Other than that the car ran great but my driving sucked. Mark
Mark,
I had simular experince toward the end of my last session, right front wheel for me. It was toward the end and I just slowed down and didn't think much about it till I got home. I was washing my car the next day and found a 2-3 oz. chunk of rubber stuck inside the wheel, in the depression between the 2 beads! That sure made sense for a high speed vibration. The last session with the open run group, the radicals were coming through at a pretty fast rate, kicking up chunks of rubber, had a couple of marks on my windshield I had to thumb nail off too:biggrin: .
I had simular experince toward the end of my last session, right front wheel for me. It was toward the end and I just slowed down and didn't think much about it till I got home. I was washing my car the next day and found a 2-3 oz. chunk of rubber stuck inside the wheel, in the depression between the 2 beads!
That sure made sense for a high speed vibration. The last session with the open run group, the radicals were coming through at a pretty fast rate, kicking up chunks of rubber, had a couple of marks on my windshield I had to thumb nail off too:biggrin: .- Joined
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I knew I had a lot of belt slippage. After the dyno I drove about 1 hour home than over the weekend I went out for a spin and about 15 min later I lost my belt. I am going to put my 3-5/8" pulley back on until I get my new ones.
What's the latest with this project? I truly admire your willingness to chart new territory. BEST of luck to you!
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I'm waiting on new pulley's to come in. I went with 8 groove pulley's and a custom 7" dia on the crank. I had so much belt slippage @ 16 PSI that I could not get to my full RPM on the dyno. overall the car runs as smooth as stock thanks to the TEC-3 computer. I have other minor things to do to finish up but just have not had the time.
