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My Blackstone oil analysis
- Thread starter L_RAO
- Start date
$25 for the standard analysis.
The real value of these reports (I have done them) are the trend lines. This baseline is a good place to start, but you will only be able to draw conclusions when you have multiple samples. I'm sure there are many experts that can read the tea leaves on this, but from what I am told the trending data is the most valuable, KH
No, the Ran Up was added to my current oil.
I am not sure why you are not using the factory recommended weight of 10W30.
They didn't have 5w30 in 1991 and if they did then Honda would have recommended that instead of 10w30? :wink:
Honda has recommended 10w30 for the nsx for I believe all years 91 - 05. Also the ItR and the Civic SI got 10W30, when the rest of the cars were running 5W30. I called Honda US about a 98 DEL Soel SI I had because the filler cap said 5W30 and the manual said 10W30 and they said 10W30 was the weight that I should run,
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S2000... 10/30w also.
That's correct, when used in outside temperatures above freezing. More specifically, Honda recommends 10W30 for the NSX if it's being used in outside temperatures of -2F or higher, and 5W30 for the NSX if it's being used in outside temperatures below freezing (32F). (So obviously 5W30 was around in 1991!)
I don't know about the Civic Si, but the recommendation for the ITR is the same as all other Integras: 5W30 as the preferred viscosity at all temperatures, with 10W30 also acceptable at outside temperatures of 18F and above.
+1 and good to see you posting Kevin!
The copper is high, and it might be a fluke. But your iron and lead are quite good. And viscosity is very good enough to ask if you drive your NSX above VTEC
:tongue:But their universal averages are not consistent with what they have on my analyses over the last several years. Ask them to verify that the universal they are using is indeed for an NSX engine - and they should have the 3.0L and 3.2L universal averages separated for I had that discussion with them many years ago :wink:
First off this is the wrong website for oil analysis. Most people on this board are still in the dark ages when it comes to knowledge about oil. You should post this on bobistheoilguy.com.
I can provide you my thoughts.
Redline is ester based and has a scavenging effect. It is not uncommon for it to give high copper reading initially esp in Honda motors. This is normal.
About oil grade, a 30 weight oil is:
min 9.3 and max 12.5 at 100 deg C
It does not matter if it is a 0W30 or a 5W30 or a 10W30. The first number just tells you how thick the oil is around room type temps and even this is not the whole story since there are huge differences with this when you compare dino to synthetic. You would have to get the specs. One 5W30 could be thicker than another brands 10W30.
Back when the NSX came out 10W30 oils were much better than 5W30 oils. The VIs were not as good. Now the base stocks are better and the VI are much better. In fact some 0W30 oils are thicker than many 10W30 at operating temps. Pennzoil Ultra has a 5W30 and a 10W30 - their specs are almost identical esp the pour point of the 5W is much lower -- but the 5W30 meets the Acura/Honda Turbo oil specs not the 10W30. Very few oils meet that spec. Most of the tech goes in the 0W and 5W oils now.
Final thing. You almost sheared your oil to 20W specs. If I were you, I would change my oil around 3K. Redline is tough but I believe you are driving the NSX like it was meant to be driven.
When I was reading that forum "btw great reads floating around there" yeah every car I think has an ideal viscosity rating at certain degrees, like if you look on the back of some oils or most they have the same ratings when at that certain degree.
I was trying to research in depth but got pretty tired of looking at all those numbers. Settled on Amsoil 5w40... which I burn a little, but not as much as when I had mobil 1 5w30 in there
Redline is junk oil from the tests I've done.
I did a bunch of blackstone tests back with my old Type-R and Redline wore the engine 5-10x more than Mobil 1.
It might be good for the race track, but for the street, it seems like to me you're going to rebuild your engine pretty quick running that stuff.
The newer oils are much better than in years' past. Go for a lower first number as this is what you can do help your engine fight "wear" - at startup, where 90% off all wear is. 0W is still TOO thick on startup on all cars. You just can't get the oil up there quick enough.
For comparison sakes, here's my Blackstone report. I have potassium up high, but copper is normal.
lol I love oil threads on prime
Don't run anything but 10w30 or you're damaging your engine!!!!!
I should have a used oil analysis coming back soon with Rotella T6 5w40 with 2 track days and a bunch of mountain driving.
Don't run anything but 10w30 or you're damaging your engine!!!!!
I should have a used oil analysis coming back soon with Rotella T6 5w40 with 2 track days and a bunch of mountain driving.
Nice to be seen, Hrant . . . As you see, I still come here from time to time and see what's kicking . . . Still miss the NSX, for sure, KH
