Possible to play with alignment settings?

Joined
22 November 2001
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760
I had my car aligned recently and the settings look to be more of a street setup. .5 degrees of negative camber on the front and 1.5 degrees negative on the back. Lets say I want 1.5 on the front and 2.5 on the back on the days that I visit the track. Is it possible to mark where the current settings are and adjust in more negative camber for my track days? Then adjust back to the old markings when I get home? Does adjusting the camber throw everything else out of whack?

I know the cars aren’t comparable, but by M3 friend looked over my settings today and laughed when he compared them to where he is on the track. He has thousands of dollars into his suspension and the ability to do all kinds of adjustments.

Is it possible to make DIY adjustments with the NSX?
 
gobble,

This will be a challange. You have interaction between the toe and camber settings so you would have to have markings for both. As you go more negative, you would be adding toe out also, so you would need to lengthen the toe links (rear) accordingly, as well as the inner tie rods(front).

You would need to put the car on an alignment rack and set it up both ways and mark all settings. My main concern would be repeatability. Since the car has soft bushings (I am talking stock setup here), I would question the repeatablility. Put a car on a good Hunter machine and watch how sensitive it is, and you will understand what I mean.

If you have toe links and hard bushings in the rear beam the rear would probably be more repeatable, but not "repeatable" in the true sense. The compliance pivot clamp may help the front, but there are still soft bushings up there.

Please keep in mind this is my "opinion", not fact, I have not tried it. If you do, please let us know how it works out.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Yes you can, but it won't be a 20 minute job.

Mark the camber location where you want them. When you go to the track, bring toe plate with you. First adjust the camber to the marked location and then adjust the toe using toe plate.

BTW, you don't need to run as much camber as M3 need to. Due to their suspension design, they need to run lots of static camber.
 
I think this gives me enough to know that its not worth messing with. I was hoping for the quick turn of a bolt when swapping brake pads. Sounds much more complicated and delicate. My suspension is entirely stock (except for shocks and springs).
 
gobble said:
My suspension is entirely stock (except for shocks and springs).
:eek: Now that's a lot of the suspension you've changed! Entirely stock?? With different shocks and springs you may have a different ride height, therefor different camber setting possibilities etc...
That's as if I would say: My brakes are entirely stock - I only changed the disks, the calipers, the brake lines and the pads of course...
 
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