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Question on hood release lever

Joined
11 December 2018
Messages
78
I recently had my front hood and bumper painted and when I attempt to push the hood close it is very difficult to get it locked. If I release it from 12" or so no problem.

I tried lowering the black stops and they are about as low as I could get. The hood looks aligned just fine but is difficult to close when pushing down with hand.

Is it possible to adjust the latch without removing the front bumper ? This is for a 2005 model year.

Thanks,
 
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I don't know about adjustments; but, I thought the drop from 10 - 12" was the accepted way of closure. That is what I have been doing for 9+ years on my 2000. I don't think I have ever tried to close it by just lowering it and then pushing it closed.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

I figured out what was causing the problem and funny rather. I noticed the rubber seal that sits between the hood and bumper what "slid" on in the wrong direction There little holes that were showing and I figured maybe it was replaced with an aftermarket one.

Then light bulb went off so I slid it out turned it around and problem solved :)

When they reinstalled the bumper and hood that rubber seal that goes across the front was inserted in the wrong direction causing the padding to make it harder to close when pushing down.

This does beg the question should I avoid doing that and just drop it about 10-12 inches instead ? Ive been closing it by hand with a micro towel for about a year but maybe I risk denting the hood ?
 
Thanks for the info it looks like its a new part. I will start dropping the hood from about 10" as that seems to work fine as well.
 
This does beg the question should I avoid doing that and just drop it about 10-12 inches instead ? Ive been closing it by hand with a micro towel for about a year but maybe I risk denting the hood ?

Excellent. Glad you were able to figure it out and it was easy too.

If you can close the hood with just pushing it down, then I would do that instead of added unneeded force to get the same job done.

In another car, I used to drop the hood down and ended up cracking the top of the radiator. It was a micro crack that would eventually failed after some heat cycles. Its was not serious, but did leave a small puddle everywhere I went. Since then, I've always pushed the hood closed.

In general, I don't think there is any harm dropping the hood....but a little extra effort to push can't be a bad thing. :)
 
Thanks for the info it looks like its a new part. I will start dropping the hood from about 10" as that seems to work fine as well.

Others have already mentioned it; the owner's manual states to let the hood drop.

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Nice that ends any doubt! Thanks for providing that reference, Ive never seen that. I guess I need to be dropping it going forward :)
 
hmmm I wonder how you close the engine hatch?:wink:
 
Drop is not an option for the glass hatch or the trunk lid because of the gas cylinders. No choice but to close and push from the center. The one thing I do remember is don't push down on the spoiler to close the trunk. That will generate some nice cracks at the ends of the spoiler where it joins the uprights.

I did notice that on the back edge of my trunk lid and top of my tail lights there were a lot of surface scratches, I am guessing from previous owners with long fingernails opening and closing the trunk. A couple of years ago I polished the tail light lenses and the back edge of the trunk and applied a strip of PPF along the top of the lenses and the back edge of the trunk lid. They have stayed nice and shiny since. Clipping your finger nails regularly might be an option (unless you are the ghost of Howard Hughes incarnate).
 
thats easy...I have import models sit on it to close...:cool:

Nope!

I had an acquaintance who had a late 70s Lambo Countach (great hobby car since it required perpetual hobbying / maintenance). Somebody contacted him about borrowing / renting the car for some kind of photo shoot with some female models. Photo shoot required resting of / draping of models over car body which turned out to be a bad thing. Regardless of how anorexic these models were they exceeded the point contact load limit on various parts of the body. The rear 1/4 near the louvers did not do at all well.
 
HaHa I got Old Guy to wander down the OT path.....and he is calculating the average compression weight of an import model..:biggrin:
 
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