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Safe limits of the stock 3.0 block

sjs

Legendary Member
Joined
17 March 2001
Messages
2,896
Location
St. Louis, Mo.
Ready for a long one?

I’d like to compile everything that is known or thought to be known about the safe limits of a stock 3.0 NSX block when subjected to forced induction. It seems to me that for anyone tempted to go beyond the typical ~6psi level, the importance of this issue is second only to fuel management. I would ask that anyone who contributes include the source of their information in terms of first-hand experience, told to you by an acknowledged expert, read in a forum such as this, etc. so we can weigh each accordingly.

I’ll kick it off with some background info and what I can offer (which is not much)

The NSX block is what is known as an “open deck” design. With the heads off, the top deck surface of a “conventional” block looks like, well, a solid block of metal with big holes bored into it for the pistons and smaller holes leading to oil and water passages. In reality of course it is cast that way then finish bored & honed. By contrast, with an open deck design the cylinders look like pipes rising up out of the bottom of a large hollow cavity in the block. The ~1cm ring of open space around the outside of each pipe (cylinder) is the water jacket where coolant circulates around the cylinder and up into the head. That leaves a vertical cylinder length of ~3 ¾ inches relatively unsupported. However, conventional blocks have similar water jackets, so the important difference here is just the very top of the cylinder, which is where all the real action takes place anyway.

Conventional wisdom states that if you produce enough HP these unsupported cylinders can cause problems. One possible problem is said to be that the cylinder itself will warp out of round, which of course leads to blow-by as rings would no longer seat, and probably scoring of both cylinder and piston. There is less specific talk of the block being unable to handle lots of HP and that it can warp or twist causing the cylinders to not be perfectly straight and perpendicular to the crank (with similar results to a warped cylinder), or the crank bores losing perfect alignment. Considering the fine tolerances involved I guess either of these is conceivable.

So the solution has been to weld on a deck plate that sets down into the water jacket and connects the top of the cylinder to the block. That plate would have holes in it to allow coolant to flow through the corresponding holes in the head gasket from the head. (this is sometimes referred to “decking the block” but historically that phrase means shaving down the top of a block to true the surface and/or increase compression.) In the end it would look very much like a conventional engine block. I’ve also seen references to what I thought were additional forms of block reinforcement but never a description of what is being done. Perhaps someone can share that with us.

So, back to the safe limits. There seems to be a general feeling that the NSX 3.0 can handle somewhere in the neighborhood of 425 RWHP without modification, but I for one only “know” that from other people. However, other blocks of similar design with more history are known to suffer similar limitations. For example, it seems well documented that the open deck block of the standard 300 ZX can’t take the strain of forced induction. (The TT block was not open deck) And yet interestingly, the 944 turbo also has an open deck but people are able to bump them up pretty high without these problems. In fact, those cylinders are totally unsupported at the top whereas the NSX cylinders are at least Siamesed (joined to the adjacent cylinder) for their full length. (funny thing, the 3.0 NA 944 engine does have Siamesed cylinders) Perhaps unevenly distributed support is worse than no support at all? But the 944 cylinder walls are significantly thicker than those of the NSX so that may be a factor as well. I spoke at length to a mechanical engineer who does deck plates for 944 engines and he said they are only necessary for a serious race engine, but he still recommends them for high output street motors since it only adds ~$500 to the build up, making for cheap insurance (and more $ in his pocket). According to him part of the problem is that the cylinders kind of move around a bit under high loads so they aren’t perfectly perpendicular to the crank, but says that would not be a concern if they were just Siamesed as the NSX is.

So now I look at all the BBSC engines already pushing 400 HP. That sounds safe, but the next step is an aftercooler and even more boost. Surely that will elevate them to or above the generally accepted limit. From what I’ve read on this forum, at least a couple of these cars have already been fitted with appropriate pistons for more boost, but I have not heard of any with a deck plate. That leads me to believe that Mark B. is comfortable with running at least 450 RWHP on a stock block. Yes?

I think the first step is to better define the measure of the limit. It’s easy to say for example 425 HP, but of course that’s a peak number and an engine is at the peak for just an instant at a time. More importantly, is HP even the right measure? I would think that torque is much more relevant because it tells you how hard the engine is working and how much stress is created per compression stroke, plus you spend a great deal of time at high torque levels. (I need to run that by some engineers like the 944 guy) This may help explain why the BBSC would be safer than a turbo with the same peak HP, a more gradual torque curve means less time at the highest levels, at least until they change pulleys and blowers to get boost early then hold it there with a BOV. At that time it will look more like a turbo curve. (there is also the concern that to make an equal RWHP figure an SC engine must actually create even more power than a turbo due to inherent parasitic losses, but that is said to be minimal with the Novi)

So now for the questions:

Head gasket issues aside, does anyone know someone who discovered or proved the limits of a stock NSX block under boost, or is this mostly extrapolation from experience with other engines?

Is anyone aware of recommended block strengthening other than adding a deck plate?

It seems like I always here about new liners at the same time that the deck is added. If the bores are in good shape and at most need to be honed for the new pistons & rings (forged pistons typically need greater clearance anyway because the expand more), is there any reason to replace the liners? I would hope you could just weld in the deck, then hone for roundness and clearance, and check the crank journals align bore. No?

BTW, I have no doubt that there is a limit, but I have no solid evidence as to what that limit really is. That’s what I hope to learn without doing it the hard way.
 
The recent thread titled NSX In Excess refers to this link:
http://www.autospeed.com/A_0035/P_1/article.html

I've seen something on this before, and what I was struck by then and now is the lack of any mention about strengthening the block. In fact, in this case the specifically mention how little was required on the bottom end.

The Honda V6 has been split open and re-built with a set of American-sourced forged pistons that provide a more turbo-friendly compression ratio of 9.1:1 - down from the factory's 10.2:1. The bottom-end remains near standard, keeping Honda's factory titanium rods but with specially made ARP rod bolts. Terry Wilson of AVO enthused about the strength and design features of the Honda engine, saying it's incredibly well balanced and uses such features as main bearing girdle strengthening all ex-factory.

Possibly just an omission, but I think I'll inquire.
 
Hi Steve,

You may want to talk to Factor X. They are under the belief that the block is PLENTY strong enough to handle 500+ HP it is just that the A/F management of most/all boosted applications is so poor that you are getting detonation under all kinds of conditions. They even apparently recommend their systems for the CompTech 5lb units.

You may want to ping them for more details as I (like most people here) are learning from you rather then able to offer you the information your asking for.

Great start to hopefully a great thread. Some vendor participation should be brought in here...

------------------
Nick M

91' Red/Black with Many Mods
99' Honda Odyssey with Many Kids
 
Yea, I guess it's time to talk with them again. I spoke to them last spring about bottom end options in general and at the time they seemed to go along with the common belief that a deck plate was necessary to prevent cylinder and/or block deformation when producing much over 400hp at the wheels. But they were really just getting started on NSX development so perhaps they have more info now.

I'm hoping some of the people who have lead the way on building higher boost engines will pitch in here, like Gerry, Larry, Mark B., etc. even if only to speculate or pose additional questions.
 
Steve,
It was great speaking with you last spring. We are very happy to see everyone doing their homework before taking the plunge into the Boosted World. The NSX is a world class vehicle and popping a motor is not cheap. In regards to the deck plating, we DO NOT recommend that procedure. The deck plates are typically installed by pressing or hammering them into the block. It WILL distort the cylinder bores. All of our high horsepower race engines that were originally open deck are now using iron ductile sleeves and other proprietary methods to ensure the safety and the sealing issues of the engine.
We have yet to reach the breaking point on a properly tuned C30A engine. We have been running the CTSC with our upgraded fuel system for almost a year now (355rwhp/255ft/lbs on 91 octane) to test the outer limits of the stock C30A engine. We then added nitrous starting with a 50, then 75, and now a 100shot. With the 100 shot we are pushing near 460rwhp/360ft/lbs on 91 octane. We have been boosted and bottled for approximately 17k miles and have been filling a bottle near every other day. It got to the point where we actually purchased our own re-fill station
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We have yet to find detonation or any other abnormal wear. The NSX engine in our opinion is one of the strongest designed bottom halves we have seen once they are sleeved, much like the Hemi. In fact we are so confident in the motor we have begun development of a big bore dual ball bearing twin turbocharged NSX with, Factor X modified intake manifold & throttle body, custom MLS head gaskets, custom cooling system, etc…All being controlled by a Pectel engine management system (A division of PI research). Our biggest concern with this project is the chassis flex. We would love to hear the input of others with any experience in this field.

Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports
 
That’s more like it! Thanks for the response. But I am a bit confused because I recall talking about the sleeves but I don’t remember any negative comments about the deck plates. Perhaps it was just not addressed directly. But I do agree that cylinder warping takes place as a result, I thought due to the heat of welding more than anything else. CT acknowledged to me that they must re-hone them and often then align bore the crank journals as well because the block gets kind of week and twisty doing the sleeves. There have also been a case or two of liners leaking coolant at the bottom because they are pressed in whereas the originals are cast in with ridges (or so I’m told). Have you heard of this?

But I guess my real questions are why the ductile sleeves are required, how did you conclude that the stock ones are inadequate, and what is the safe limit when running stock sleeves? Are the new sleeves thicker than stock, requiring that the aluminum around them be bored out larger? What characteristics about them are superior to the originals? (for example, lower or more uniform rate of expansion when hot and therefore resistant to warping, or won’t split a gut under high loads, or…?)

You refer to your CTSC test engine as a stock C30A. Does that mean that even with the 100 shot your aren’t running forged pistons, but do have the sleeves in it, or is that even without sleeves?

Sorry for the quiz, but there are too many conflicting but incomplete bits of information floating around, and that’s what a forum such as this can resolve for all of us at once.
 
The issue of decking the block was not addressed because we do not believe in that method. As your research with CT has shown there are some other variables that you introduce when decking the block. Whether it is welded on or installed via the “hammer method” it is something we do not do with our engines. Our machinist has a proprietary method of inserting the sleeves that prevents the leakage as you mentioned. This method along with the proper clearances for each engine and application specific tuning is critical in the engine building process. We have built and tuned over 30 race engines that run NA, forced induction, and or nitrous enhancements. These engines have produced in excess of 1,000hp, propelled the nations fastest civic to 204mph, and withstood over a 1000 miles in Baja at extreme external temps as well as reaching 300 degrees in water temp.


We have yet to shatter a stock sleeve due to extreme cylinder pressures. So… at this point we do not know the limits of the stock sleeves. The iron ductile sleeves are much thicker and stronger. The aluminum no longer exists as the sleeves have replaced them. There are a multitude of attributes that make the ductile sleeves superior to the stock ones. For example, denser material, increased thermal stability, structurally more rigid, etc.


The NSX test vehicle is a 93, 3.0 liter with 57k miles. It has I/H/E, a CTSC, and a wet nitrous system. Along with a bunch of other pretty stuff from Chris W. and Mark J. The engine itself is completely stock top to bottom and runs on 91 octane. As we previously mentioned we are currently pushing approximately 460+rwhp 360+ft/lbs. This is about the half way point for us
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Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports www.factorxmotorsports.com
 
How much time has the engine spent producing that 460 rwhp? Especially since you said the car has nitrous to achieve that power, I cannot imagine it has many hours at that level of output.

This is similar to the question someone else posted about how a supercharger affects engine life. I can easily cruise around the country and never have the car put out over 300 HP. Or I can drive at the track and have it put out 400 HP for 30 or 40 minutes a day. If you aren't at the track, it is hard to really put much max-power time on an engine.

Certainly you can get a certain amount of time with almost any amount of power. I would be VERY interested to see someone with a 500 RWHP car on stock internals that is still fine after say 50,000 hard miles including a decent amount of track use.
 
Originally posted by Factor X Motorsports:


The NSX test vehicle is a 93, 3.0 liter with 57k miles. It has I/H/E, a CTSC, and a wet nitrous system. Along with a bunch of other pretty stuff from Chris W. and Mark J. The engine itself is completely stock top to bottom and runs on 91 octane. As we previously mentioned we are currently pushing approximately 460+rwhp 360+ft/lbs. This is about the half way point for us
smile.gif



Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports www.factorxmotorsports.com
Amazing!When you speak of it being the halfway point.do you mean testing of the current setup. the s/c plus 100 shot and see how it holds up for the long run OR you want to push the stock motor and internals to find the break point.I hope you are approaching it from both angles.I would like to see a 3.0 push 750 rwhp much like a built supra.(please no static on the supra ref)do you intend on finding the break limit on components and then engineer those components to acheive more power and continue on until you have relized the max peak for our nsx that will achieve the gains and hang in for the long haul.please respond as I am very interested.I must say I am impressed that this test motor has held up with no issues with the pistons.I know you have a proprietery fuel management system.are you using multible maps?lastly how is this cars drivability when not spraying?hence the maps.and do you plan on testing it with more the one type of fms. perhaps the AEM.and testing with another s/c?
best regards david
ps with all the static concerning highly tuned cars in california and it appears to be getting worse with new laws all the time perhaps its time you relocate to a state with no emissions testing..say florida
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we need people like FactorX,MB,MJ on the east coast.why are all the great tuners in cali?the florida scene is ripe ready begging for quality tuners oh yeah no state income tax
 
I have used as much as 15psi with the stock sleeves however the cylinders went out of round by as much as 6-1/2 thousandths on a fresh bore with 9.5-1 JE pistons., but after getting another set of JE pistons that were .010 larger to straighten out the bores and running the motor for 2000 miles at 12psi after the machine work was done on the already seasoned sleeves the problem was gone. I have since replaced the stock sleeves with the Darton's and I also am using a block guard that was C&C machined to fit the C&C'ed block. Darton is making some special sleeves for me to use on a few motors I am building that will incorperate the block guard as part of the sleeve, They will be like the Civic Pro Sleeves.
 
Thanks Gerry and ??? Factor X. Good stuff! I’d been told that the Dartons hadn’t been done yet for an NSX, I’m pleased to hear otherwise. Where would each of you recommend drawing the line with regards to new liners and other block reinforcement? It sounds like the Factor x car even uses a stock head gasket, what are you using Gerry?

I'd like to think we could get into basic pricing for the mods you offer. Any reason it can’t be discussed at least in terms of estimates for typical options?

One more thing, do either of you have information or even an educated guess about the relative “strength” of the 3.2 engine?
 
Darton will be making the sleeves to the sizing they were given by me that will include the block guards, the sleeves that I have are not the same.
I am using a copper head gasket and ARP studs in the heads and in the mains along with the ARP rod bolts.
 
Lud brings up some excellent points. We get 360ft/lbs of torque at about 3500rpms which is max torque. We are not saying that it lives most of its life at 8,000. However, it spends a great deal of time at peak torque with and without nitrous. We go through several 10lb bottles a week, traveling excess of 100 miles a day and many, many more in the canyons (utilizing Anytimes maps
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Why is nitrous better for testing the limits of the stock engine? We choose to add nitrous on top of the CTSC to test the limits due to its inherent characteristics. Nitrous is torque in a bottle. It is forced power, and an immediate hit. It does not build boost like that of an SC or turbo. If not tuned properly this causes greater wear and stress on the bearings, ring lands, valves and tires
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In addition, the combustion pressures and engine temps are more intense than that of an SC or turbo. The test vehicle is not babied in any way shape or form its sole purpose is to get beat on. We bought another one in anticipation of the test vehicle being down. Which has yet to happen. (knock... knock...)

The effects of forced induction on an engine’s life is directly correlated to the tuning of the engine. The tuner needs to have a deep understanding of engine dynamics and combustion characteristics under forced induction. Tuning a FI vehicle is not as easy as many people think. Obtaining the “Hero Number” is not always suited to the person that drives the car day in and day out. The standard A/F that we have seen on the forums does not apply to all the applications of forced induction. In addition, A/F’s are only part of the equation, what about timing and air intake temps? For example, we have seen some CTSCs that are running quite lean in some areas and rich in others. The adjustments that the tuner has made wont always have an immediate effect on the engine but will lead to problems in the future. Unfortunately, the “last person rule” usually applies and people are quick to point fingers at the last modification and or technician. Once detonation occurs you are weakening the internals of that engine, causing premature wear. The more detonation the shorter the lifespan of that particular engine. To initially check to see if your car is detonating pull your spark plugs. They will give you an initial reading and tell you what is going on inside. If you do not know how to read them take a pic and send them to us and we will try to help.

As Lud mentioned getting a certain amount of time with almost any amount of power is not that difficult. The difficult part is building & tuning for each application. For example, when we build an NHRA motor, the clearances, P&P work, A/F, and timing curves are completely different than that of an engine that is expected to go 1,000 miles in the heat at 9,500 rpms for over 30 hours straight. Same goes for the person that uses their NSX as a daily driver.

“I would be VERY interested to see someone with a 500 RWHP car on stock internals that is still fine after say 50,000 hard miles including a decent amount of track use.”

Lud Are you volunteering?
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Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports www.factorxmotorsports.com
 
David,

The current set-up will proceed as it has been for the past year or so. Baby steps... 50-75-100-150-200???. Once we go with a larger shot several factors come into play. The main one being fuel. Once we find the breaking point, we probably will not engineer or produce those components as they already exist on the market and are made by manufactures that are smarter than us
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It's funny you mention the pistons holding up. That is at the top of the list on our pool. The drivability is excellent, it took a great deal of time to sort out the daily driven aspects. WOT is the easy part. We do not use multiple maps as of yet, just do it the old fashioned way. We will be running an AEM on the car as soon as it is available for the NSX. The Vortech has been running our fuel system for sometime now also but, we have not added nitrous yet as we want to sort out the SC first.

The halfway point we mention is in reference to the TT NSX in the works. We would love to move to Fla! Any good spots in South Beach? Btw, excellent job on the packaging
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Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports www.factorxmotorsports.com
 
Originally posted by Gerry Johnson:
I am using a copper head gasket and ARP studs in the heads and in the mains along with the ARP rod bolts.
[/B]

Gerry,

Would you be interested in using an MLS head gasket? We are having some custom made and should arrive some time this century
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Btw, do you have any extra sets of ARP's?

Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports www.factorxmotorsports.com
 
Originally posted by Factor X Motorsports:
“I would be VERY interested to see someone with a 500 RWHP car on stock internals that is still fine after say 50,000 hard miles including a decent amount of track use.”

Lud Are you volunteering?
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[/URL]


If you volunteer to build my car up no charge, I will volunteer to drive it until it breaks and report how many miles / smiles I got out of it! Equal partners, right?
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In all seriousness thanks for the in-depth answer. It sounds like you are indeed putting that car through some good hard use and I will be interested to hear what, if anything, breaks on it after a couple years of such use... and not just engine internals.

I am honestly interested in the idea of building my car to have in the neighborhood of 500 HP (supercharged only, no nitrous). But I am put off by my "gut feeling" that:

a) It would require internal work to be reliable over the long haul

b) "Things" will have a considerably shorter lifespan... not necessarily even in the engine, but other drivetrain components. I don't want to turn the car into a maintenace queen.

c) There will end up being so much custom work that I have trouble finding people in my area capable of servicing it correctly. Heck I have had serious trouble finding people to service STOCK parts of the car correctly in this part of the country.

I am in no rush, so I don't mind waiting a few years to see how all the cars that are just recently getting that kind of power stand up to long-term use. I hope my gut is wrong on both A and B above. In the meantime I'm glad for all the people who are doing the testing that will ultimately benefit the rest of us.
 
A-la welcome back Carter...

oh oh oh - pick ME - oh - oh.

Lud is allready putting down in the neighborhood of 350 HP - what about us poor souls in the 250 range???
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------------------
Nick M

91' Red/Black with Many Mods
99' Honda Odyssey with Many Kids

[This message has been edited by matteni (edited 06 September 2002).]

[This message has been edited by matteni (edited 08 September 2002).]
 
Originally posted by Factor X Motorsports:
David,

The current set-up will proceed as it has been for the past year or so. Baby steps... 50-75-100-150-200???. Once we go with a larger shot several factors come into play. The main one being fuel. Once we find the breaking point, we probably will not engineer or produce those components as they already exist on the market and are made by manufactures that are smarter than us
smile.gif
It's funny you mention the pistons holding up. That is at the top of the list on our pool. The drivability is excellent, it took a great deal of time to sort out the daily driven aspects. WOT is the easy part. We do not use multiple maps as of yet, just do it the old fashioned way. We will be running an AEM on the car as soon as it is available for the NSX. The Vortech has been running our fuel system for sometime now also but, we have not added nitrous yet as we want to sort out the SC first.

The halfway point we mention is in reference to the TT NSX in the works. We would love to move to Fla! Any good spots in South Beach? Btw, excellent job on the packaging
smile.gif


Speed Safely,

Factor X Motorsports www.factorxmotorsports.com

glad it made it in one piece! I am also engaging in my own tuning as you know.so deep interest when you get into maps.as far as your concern about chassis flex..read this thread.swish is putting down serious hp his post will interest you as his mounts have gone south http://www.nsxprime.com/ubb/Forum19/HTML/000353.html
ken,after you sort out the comptech-nitrous car are you going to sell the kit or kits?
PART TWO
I know you are using a wet system as i should be.I plan to switch over very soon.what do you think the limit is on a dry system using stock injectors and fuel pump and regulator and the limits of a dry kit using a secondary fuel pump and beefed up regulator.I know at that point you would want to say just go wet.but i have built a very good nsx specific dry kit and am testing it on my car. your input is really welcome.ive seen your nos set-ups.impressive.I started out by doing a study of the old rm kit.I had one laying around with a butchered wire harness so I rebuilt it and made a half a dozen xtras for anybody that has that kit and the harness is bad.am going to sell them for about 20 $including a relay and fuse. yeah the cost of material.just helping out fellow sprayers.BUT I also re enginnered the kit, whole new type harness, bottle placement.uses a 2 or 2-1/2 pound bottles or up to four of the lttle guys and built a new control switch array that will be able to monitor o2 wide band very soon.(seeing is believing) its not ready yet.waiting on some r&d from another company and beta testing on my car.but when its done.
1. I will be selling it for very cheap 15% above cost.around 500$ minus the w/b setup maybe cheaper
2. it will be dummy proof as i used my wife to install it.(shes no dummy but what i mean is if she can anyone can as she had no pre knowledge of nitrous installation but is very mech inclined
3.will not need to drill holes in the rear trunk.placement of the switches is still stealth and can be put in three differnt places and all can be concealed.NO drilling and placment of bottles in two..working on three places..up to the person
4. will ship with an instruction manual two parts
one overview of dry nitrious and second part a tech install with margin notes in layman terms
5.step by step install video.whos doing that?
no one.
my goal is to help out folks with kits that are no longer made.I have changed enough so there is no patent violation(not being sold anymore anyhow) with my proprietery switch setup and revamped harness.the rest of the parts are common to most if not all dry kits.basically anyone using the old rm kit will be able to use my harness and switches-relay and easily rebuild there old kits if thrashed or switch over to my controls that require no drilling.the kit will only need the oem or aftermarket intake drilled threaded for the nozzle.then i go to work on a wet sys nsx specific.please respond with your opinion on max spray dry under mentioned parameters.the kit I have all dialed in.just want your opinion on peak spray of all generic dry kits.my kit will have multible fail over for bullet proofing so i am not inquiring about that.just your thoughts on max dry spray that the stock components can handle.
best regards david
ps whoever reads this I am doing it as a cost effective dry kit that can be installed in two hours by a novice and is specific for the nsx and not a nightmare of uncertainy for a novice installer.I could careless about making money off it.I want to make smiles
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by not blowing up your motors. you will beleive it when you see it.and if you dont want to buy the kit i WILL sell the install video and component list at cost for those that want to roll there own,and what i mean by at cost paper and blank vhs tapes
it wont be long.but do not email me on this yet as I will not release it until I am sure it will not damage your car.at that time I will repost on this not until then.
best regards david
 
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