Along with my turbo installation I had an SOS sport clutch installed to hopefully hold the power of the car. I emailed Chris and told him that I was expecting much more than the 300 ft lbs of engine torque which he claims the clutch is designed for. He said that the clutch should hold it with no problem. I can tell you like others have said this clutch is amazing. You virtually can't tell that there is an aftermarket clutch in the car. Well maybe because it is actually better with no chattering and a very light pedal effort which I wanted. As to how much power it can hold I don't know what the torque is at the engine but it has 360ft lbs at the wheels so I would think some where near 400 at the crank. Good job Science of Speed!!:smile:
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Science of Speed Sport Clutch
- Thread starter BobK
- Start date
- Joined
- 10 August 2010
- Messages
- 633
I'm expecting to be near your goals with my setup, good to see yet another positive review. I'll definitely be ordering one of these.
One of our members down here with non FI is having one installed today. On the lift as we speak.
I really can't say as I had it done as part of my turbo install so the price would be different for you.
hi Bob --
Thank you for your review. I'm glad you are enjoying the clutch - it's one of my favorite parts in my own car.
-- Chris
Thank you for your review. I'm glad you are enjoying the clutch - it's one of my favorite parts in my own car.
-- Chris
AHH ok thx bro!!
Installation is very straight forward. Generally, this is 7.5-8 hours of labor.
It seems like this clutch is not really designed to handle FI power in the 7-8lbs of boost range. Has anyone been running this clutch for an extended period of time with 300+TQ or 400 RWHP?
I'd like to jump in with this clutch but I am scared that it won't handle anything more than spirited driving. No, I don't plan on tracking but I'd be lying if I said I would not hit the 1/4 mile track for 3-4 runs once the clutch broke in.
My current factory clutch with 30k miles slipped at the track on my 3rd run.
I had to back boost off to 5psi from 7.5 and now it holds just fine.
Money is tight now so I am babying the stock clutch until things clear up.
I'd like to jump in with this clutch but I am scared that it won't handle anything more than spirited driving. No, I don't plan on tracking but I'd be lying if I said I would not hit the 1/4 mile track for 3-4 runs once the clutch broke in.
My current factory clutch with 30k miles slipped at the track on my 3rd run.
I had to back boost off to 5psi from 7.5 and now it holds just fine.
Money is tight now so I am babying the stock clutch until things clear up.
I hope you are wrong and what Chris told me about it holding is correct. Time will tell. I do hit boost in 1st but I have not been doing hole shots and won't be so maybe I won't be the one to know. If you do plan on running the car in the quarter maybe you would be better off with the 6 puck version.
hi Bob --
I think your projection at the time was 350 lb/ft to the crank, which is what this clutch is rated for (we didn't have the new race clutch back in December). If the clutch holds on the loading dyno, it will continue to hold at the street (a loading dyno generates more load than you can produce on a street or track).
cheers,
-- Chris
I think your projection at the time was 350 lb/ft to the crank, which is what this clutch is rated for (we didn't have the new race clutch back in December). If the clutch holds on the loading dyno, it will continue to hold at the street (a loading dyno generates more load than you can produce on a street or track).
cheers,
-- Chris
In quarter mile type driving, there's quite a bit of slip generated, even if your foot is completely off the clutch pedal. This slip can be reduced by using a non-marcel type clutch disc with ceramic friction liners, like our new race puck clutch:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...nce_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/Sport_Clutch/
cheers,
-- Chris
Chris, actually I specifically said that I expected the rear wheel power to be beyond 300ft lbs more on the order of 350 ft lbs to the wheels. I hope we didn't have a miscommunication about what this clutch can handle as I would hate to have spent that much money for the clutch and not have it live for very long.
I'm sorry, a possible miscommunication. We rate the clutches at the flywheel, because that is constant. Every dyno will be different for a measurement at the wheels:
"The clutch is rated for 350 lb/ft of torque at the engine - which translates to approximately 400-450 horsepower making it ideal for most supercharger applications and many turbocharger applications."
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...nce_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/Sport_Clutch/
However, I don't see this as a concern. The rating is static torque (meaning when the clutch is engaged). The clutch held on a loading dyno in your dyno testing, which generates more load through the clutch than street driving or track driving can generate. Thus, you've proven the practical capacity.
-- Chris
"The clutch is rated for 350 lb/ft of torque at the engine - which translates to approximately 400-450 horsepower making it ideal for most supercharger applications and many turbocharger applications."
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...nce_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/Sport_Clutch/
However, I don't see this as a concern. The rating is static torque (meaning when the clutch is engaged). The clutch held on a loading dyno in your dyno testing, which generates more load through the clutch than street driving or track driving can generate. Thus, you've proven the practical capacity.
-- Chris
Chris,
Has anyone installed the sport 6 puck clutch here on Prime?
I'd am torn between the two clutches. My application is just a little over 300 torque at the wheels and 400hp. I have a feeling that if BobK's setup with 350tq can hold I'll just be fine with your standard sport clutch.
Has anyone installed the sport 6 puck clutch here on Prime?
I'd am torn between the two clutches. My application is just a little over 300 torque at the wheels and 400hp. I have a feeling that if BobK's setup with 350tq can hold I'll just be fine with your standard sport clutch.
A customer posted a review of the puck clutch here:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145940
The pedal feel between the two is identical. The puck clutch has a sharper engagement than the full face clutch, but is still relatively easy to modulate the engagement. However, based on your application, I think you'd be fine with the full face design.
-- Chris
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145940
The pedal feel between the two is identical. The puck clutch has a sharper engagement than the full face clutch, but is still relatively easy to modulate the engagement. However, based on your application, I think you'd be fine with the full face design.
-- Chris
The clutch disc liner for the full face street disc is very similar to the OEM liner. The clutch should last as long or longer than a factory clutch. However, the life of the clutch disc, as with any clutch - OEM or aftermarket, is largely dependent on how it is driven. Here's an excerpt from our installation guide that details this:
These tips are provided to maximize the life of your clutch.
These tips are provided to maximize the life of your clutch.
- Do not depress the clutch for extended periods while the engine is running such as at stop lights. Shift the transmission into neutral, depress clutch, and remove your foot from the pedal.
- Do not ride the clutch pedal with your foot while the car is being driven.
- The majority of most clutch wear occurs only when the clutch pedal is pressed or depressed switching gears – regardless of how fast or aggressive the car is being driven. Because of this, you should take care with lighter clutch and flywheel assemblies to not feather the clutch heavily, and to not allow the engine speed to drop considerably from shifting slowly (requiring the clutch to take up the difference between the engine and transmission speed).
- Try to minimize how much you feather the clutch starting from a stop. This is the time that all clutches see the majority of wear. Get into the habit of depressing the gas pedal slightly to get engine momentum and releasing the clutch pedal as quickly as possible while still maintaining smooth engagement to minimize wear.
That sounds like the perfect combination for the Sport Clutch & Flywheel, part no dpp-581:
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...nce_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/Sport_Clutch/
We have three currently in stock.
-- Chris
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produ...nce_products/NSX/ScienceofSpeed/Sport_Clutch/
We have three currently in stock.
-- Chris
No problem, it's in stock so it will ship immediately and we'll e-mail you the tracking number.
-- Chris
-- Chris
I love my SOS sport clutch. After going through a number of dual disk OEM clutches, I quickly placed an order after SOS introduced its single disk sport clutch. And I wasn't disappointed. It offers OEM drivability but aftermarket stregth and durability. And the the lightweight flywheel is icing on the cake. A great product.
Thanks Chris!
Thanks Chris!
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