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What sorta Air/Fuel ratios and Timing specs are you FI guys running?

The idle timing in my map is 19.2 but the AEM EMS setup can float that to keep the idle steady. I float from 13 to 19 at idle. Up top it floats too. At 3000-3500 feet I'm at 29 but downtown Vegas at 1700-2100 I'm at 27. With the heat those number come down about 3 degrees. I'm sure without the intercooler those numbers would be lower.

Yesterday my AEM log with a dyno math lab showed 397rwhp and 302rwtq at around 25.19 degrees at 1900 feet. I was down about .8psi so this about matches my SOS dyno if you do a SAE conversion.

I've found the ait sensor for the SOS intercooler heat soaks about 30-40 degrees (1st pull 30 additional immediate pulls 40). So in 105ish temps my max ait is ~160; in 95ish temps it is ~150. That is at 7psi max; add 10 degrees when I'm at the 1900 feet because I can hit 8psi. Those max psi numbers are at redline.

Due to the heat soak the AEM reads the ait around 40 degrees higher but it was tuned with that offset. Lower than 140 (ie 100) fuel is added and my timing starts to retard higher than that -- at 178 (ie 138).
 
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Starting at 4K at 6psi around 12.2 ending at 8.1K at 8psi around 11.8. This is not set in stone .... sometimes its 4K 6psi starting at 11.8-12.0 and ending at 8.1K 8psi around 11.6-11.8. It depends on where I start and if any knock fuel is added (can reduce A/F by .5). I was tuned for around 11.8. If I start a pull at 3K then the 12ish starts there ..... the O2 sensor has to catch up with the added fuel.
 
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Do u have any info on the boost to a/f ratios?

generally speaking mid-high 11's at most boost level is adequate. i wouldn't say 12:1 on a ctsc at 6psi is on the ragged edge of detionation, but i doubt there would be much of a difference so why not add a little fuel to cool the chamber off.

ignition timing will vary a lot depending on fuel used, load(boost level), rpm, turbo/sc setup etc. lets say you have a turbo setup that hits peak boost at 4500rpm and you spin your motor to 8500, you are going to run more timing in the upper rpms than you would at lets say 4500-6000rpm. at higher rpms piston speeds increase but the time it takes for the combustion event to reach peak pressure is roughly the same same so you can ignite earlier and since the pistons move faster peak pressure can occur at the same point relative to the crank angle. my point being there it no one magic number even for 2 of the same setups. 1 degree of retard per psi is a starting point some people use but not something to live by.
 
Starting at 4K at 6psi around 12.2 ending at 8.1K at 8psi around 11.8. This is not set in stone .... sometimes its 4K 6psi starting at 11.8-12.0 and ending at 8.1K 8psi around 11.6-11.8. It depends on where I start and if any knock fuel is added (can reduce A/F by .5). I was tuned for around 11.8. If I start a pull at 3K then the 12ish starts there ..... the O2 sensor has to catch up with the added fuel.

Are you running 91 octane? Those A/F ratios seem like the "ragged edge" of detonating in my experience with other cars on our wonderful 91 octane.....
 
11.5 is usually the sweet spot.

This might be the "sweet" spot for adding a little margin of safety.....but ideal A/F ratio for power and clean burn on FI cars is around 12.3-12.5 A/F.

Just FYI
 
The only way I would run that lean is if I knew what each individual cylinder was burning at. There are always variances between each cylinders, and most AFR monitoring devices monitor either all six, or at least each bank collectively.

For a street car driven by somebody who doesn't have their nose burried in a laptop everytime they drive their car, 11.5:1 should be the leanest anybody should shoot for. High HP applications(550WHP+), 11:1. Burning a little extra fuel is better than burning pistons any day of the week especially when there is so little power to be gained from running at 12:1 compared to 11:1.
 
The only way I would run that lean is if I knew what each individual cylinder was burning at. There are always variances between each cylinders, and most AFR monitoring devices monitor either all six, or at least each bank collectively.

For a street car driven by somebody who doesn't have their nose burried in a laptop everytime they drive their car, 11.5:1 should be the leanest anybody should shoot for. High HP applications(550WHP+), 11:1. Burning a little extra fuel is better than burning pistons any day of the week especially when there is so little power to be gained from running at 12:1 compared to 11:1.

Cody, i think ur dead on.

I was wondering what sorta power differences did you see between 12:1 to 11:1?
 
Are you running 91 octane? Those A/F ratios seem like the "ragged edge" of detonating in my experience with other cars on our wonderful 91 octane.....

I was running a 3 to 1 mix with 100 octane but my A/F were in the low 11s and I was down around 10-15wrhp with that. I'm back to shell 91 (so I'm leaner now). I'm going to play with the ait tables ( I don't want anything over 11.9). My tune pulls fuel as the temps increase --- I'm going to reduce that fuel pull and increase the fuel add by one percent.

I take my laptop with me everytime I drive and I run a custom AEM dash I built. In the future I'm going to get a 2 din Car PC so I can monitor every thing that way. Plus my knock sensors are enabled to pull timing and add fuel in case of knock. I log this as well.

Cody preaches that 11.5 because you tend to run leaner on the street than the dyno due to the ram air effect and how the engine is loaded on the street versus the dyno.

I actually had less random minor (less than a volt) knock spikes on the shell 91 then the 91/100 mix -- in WOT pulls and normal driving. Shell is good gas.
 
I was running a 3 to 1 mix with 100 octane but my A/F were in the low 11s and I was down around 10-15wrhp with that. I'm back to shell 91 (so I'm leaner now). I'm going to play with the ait tables ( I don't want anything over 11.9). My tune pulls fuel as the temps increase --- I'm going to reduce that fuel pull and increase the fuel add by one percent.

I take my laptop with me everytime I drive and I run a custom AEM dash I built. In the future I'm going to get a 2 din Car PC so I can monitor every thing that way. Plus my knock sensors are enabled to pull timing and add fuel in case of knock. I log this as well.

Cody preaches that 11.5 because you tend to run leaner on the street than the dyno due to the ram air effect and how the engine is loaded on the street versus the dyno.

I actually had less random minor (less than a volt) knock spikes on the shell 91 then the 91/100 mix -- in WOT pulls and normal driving. Shell is good gas.

u pretty savy man there.....

BTW, my old man was a F-104G instructor.

Does that jet mean anything to USAF pilots these days?

Besides being a widow maker.....
 
I've seen a 5-10whp difference, but also higher knock values the closer I get to 12:1(accompanied by plug reading confirmations). In short, 12:1afr is too much risk to stake my reputation on.

You'll more than make that power back on the street with proper airflow in and around the motor.
 
I've seen a 5-10whp difference, but also higher knock values the closer I get to 12:1(accompanied by plug reading confirmations). In short, 12:1afr is too much risk to stake my reputation on.

You'll more than make that power back on the street with proper airflow in and around the motor.

I heard that too from the tuner of my "other car" that once the car is under greater load and airflow, there will be more HP.
 
Those runs were in 3rd gear. I run richer in 4th gear (no higher than 11.8), which is the dyno gear. I forgot about that. I'll do a 4th gear pull this weekend to confirm in the colder weather.
 
I've seen a 5-10whp difference, but also higher knock values the closer I get to 12:1(accompanied by plug reading confirmations). In short, 12:1afr is too much risk to stake my reputation on.

You'll more than make that power back on the street with proper airflow in and around the motor.

Ah, there you go, now you said it.

I only gave the mathematical number before. That doesn't mean everyone should run 12.5......but mathematically, this is where an FI motor will make the most power per burn cycle. *most of the time*

On my lotus I run between a 12.3-12.5 A/F value. I watch my gauges all the time, and monitor my car all the time. Not only that I have all the supporting cooling mods, and exhaust flow mods to be able to do that. I have TONS TONS TONS of time into my map, but I tune cars so my time is of course free to me.

NOW. What do I do on customers cars. Now that is a whole new ball game. All the cars I have ever tuned, I put there cars between 11.2-11.8 depending on the set-up. Meaning, depending on the size turbo, size intercooler, does the motor run cool, does the motor have a restrictive exhaust, what is the compressions ratio, and so on. There really is no magic number. I run 12.5 all day long with no knock on the ECU, and no knock heard through my knock muffs. Also the spark plugs show no signs of knock but are perfect because of the perfect burn A/F value, instead of on my customers cars that are usually a little black because I run them a little richer. Again though, there is no perfect number.

I figured the guy in the first post wanted a number, which is 12.5. There is the number....... but the reality is that many tuners are not willing to tune another persons car to that level and have there reputation on the line for it. I know I am not, and it looks like Cody is not willing either. And Cody is right. I am maybe getting another 15-20 whp out of the car running it the way I am. Is that worth it to a customer? I would hope not over a motor, but to me, its really no big deal so why not.
 
There are so many variables to this question. Just because someone's posted air:fuel and ignition timing MAY work for them absolutely doesn't mean it's going to work for you. That and information people post may be wrong. You have to account for injector/cylinder variance, intercooled/non intercooled, ait's, etc. So much. Customer's cars depending upon the complete setup I usually tune for 11.2:1 - 11.5:1 under full load
 
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