"You might need a new engine..."

Resolution (of a sort)

I picked up my car last week. Here is the good, the bad, and the concerning.

THE GOOD
The clattering sound is resolved. They re-torqued the cam caps and adjusted the valves (which they said were out of spec by quite a bit). Final bill: $700.
Here are the specifics from their repair order:
CUSTOMER STATES THE ENGINE IS MAKING A " TICKING " NOISE ? CHECK & ADVISE. TEST DROVE & CONFIRMED NOISE.
PERFORMED ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET TWICE, ( COLD & HOT ).PASSED BOTH TESTS.
WE CHECKED LOST MOTION ASSEMBLIES, OKAY. NO DTC'S STORED IN PCM. CHECKED ENGINE CRANKSHAFT END PLAY. CRANKSHAFT END PLAY = .009 / SPEC= .0018 MAX ( OKAY ). REMOVED OUTSIDE DRIVE BELTS, NOISE STILL THERE. REMOVED VALVE COVERS & TIMING BELT COVER. STARTED ENGINE NOISE GONE. INSPECTED TIMING BELT, WATER PUMP, TENSIONER & IDLER BEARING, ( OKAY ). RE INSTALLED TIMING COVERS & STARTED, NOISE STILL NOT PRESENT. LOOSENED CAMSHAFT CAPS & RE TORQUED. ADJUSTED ENGINE VALVES & PUT BACK TOGETHER. NOISE GONE NOW.

THE BAD

The driver side window regulator is broken. They told me that when they closed the door the day before I picked it up, they heard a loud "twang" and the driver's side window dropped down into the door. This is disappointing, as I had just had them adjusted and lubricated at Source1 last June, and they said everything looked great. I suppose you really can't tell about it until it breaks. They gave me a $1,050 estimate to repair it, but I chose not to leave it with them.

THE CONCERNING
The owner Mark took me for a ride when I picked it up. He said there is a slight grinding with the air conditioner that indicates the compressor is about to go. He thinks I should have it replaced soon to catch it before it breaks. Candidly, I could not hear it in spite of his coaching. But I will listen for it. It DID seem like there is a little whining on deceleration like there is some resistance from a belt, but I only had the opportunity to drive the car a few miles after I left First Class HALT.

I now need to get the regulator replaced, but I am reluctant to bring it to First Class HALT. I am open to suggestions as to where to bring it. It does not make sense to send it away for a non-mechanical repair, but that might be the best course. I just want to get it fixed so I can start driving it again!

Thanks to everyone here for your expertise and perspective.
 
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Who touched the cam caps last? Which ones were not torqued? How far from the spec? If multiple and ones closer to the TB did they check for scoring? How much play was there? I'm not an expert just happy user but those questions I would be asking.
 
Who touched the cam caps last? Which ones were not torqued? How far from the spec? If multiple and ones closer to the TB did they check for scoring? How much play was there? I'm not an expert just happy user but those questions I would be asking.

The cams were touched 5 years ago at David McDavid Acura under the PO. I asked "how loose were the cam caps?" He said "I didn't say they were loose; I said I re-torqued them". He thought it was the re-torquing that stopped the rattle, though as I said he also adjusted the valves.

I'm disappointed that the driver's window broke. It has always been very fast up and down.
 
I agree with Larry regarding the window regulator. Window Motor World will rebuild the regulator and rewind the cable for less than $150. It is not a hard job, just a little messy because of the water shield glue and the cable lubricant. As far as the AC compressor is concerned, make sure it is the compressor and not the alt. or a pulley or idler bearing. You can get the idler bearing for about $10. My noise was from an alt. diode going south. A local shop rebuilt the unit including new bearings, diodes, etc. The cost was less than $100. Good luck with the car. Jerry
 
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