Does anyone have a drawing with measurements for building an engine cradle that would allow me to pull the entire subframe and engine assembly without having a lift? Thanks.
-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
Engine cradle for pulling
- Thread starter syndicate
- Start date
Whoa!! Slow down, not all at once guys!! Come on, someone has to have an engine dolly that they built..?
I suspect the mass amount of traffic on this thread is probably because no one has made a cradle dolly that could be used without a lift.
I've removed an nsx engine without a lift, but in order to do that I had to remove the rear cradle and then I just lowered the car so that the engine and trans sat on wheel dollies. Then I jacked the chassis up high enough to roll it out. I saw a post years ago where someone used a furniture dolly with the same concept. However, I then used a lift to re-install the engine.
Anyway, in my McDork build thread I have a picture of the cradle I built and would be happy to send you dimensions if you think it would help.
I've removed an nsx engine without a lift, but in order to do that I had to remove the rear cradle and then I just lowered the car so that the engine and trans sat on wheel dollies. Then I jacked the chassis up high enough to roll it out. I saw a post years ago where someone used a furniture dolly with the same concept. However, I then used a lift to re-install the engine.
Anyway, in my McDork build thread I have a picture of the cradle I built and would be happy to send you dimensions if you think it would help.
Syndicate, I know that Coz made a cradle, but don't recall if you needed a lift to use it. You can try reaching out to him.
I don't have drawings, and for some reason my pictures disappeared a long time ago, but here was my process:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/154927-Semi-DIY-Mild-Engine-Build-for-FI/page4?p=1517551&viewfull=1#post1517551
I made two dollies. I've seen a lot of pictures on here of makeshift furniture dollies supporting the subframe/engine, and they looked a little scary to me. Why take a chance having everything slip or damage your oil pan and pickup?
Coz recommended I use the aluminum "U" shaped bar that ties the rear subframe together as a template for "dolly #1 ." I did that and took into account the elevation change so the whole subframe/engine would sit level once seated. I bought six 2" casters from a big box store and went to work with a bunch of 2x4's. The only thing I wish I had paid more attention to when making it was how long (front-back) it would be when trying to slide my hoist legs in from the side of the car.
"Dolly #2 " was made to support just the engine and transmission once removed from the subframe. It allowed easy access when removing/installing the transmission. Especially during install for my fragile carbon clutch discs.
Hope that helps.
Dave
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/154927-Semi-DIY-Mild-Engine-Build-for-FI/page4?p=1517551&viewfull=1#post1517551
I made two dollies. I've seen a lot of pictures on here of makeshift furniture dollies supporting the subframe/engine, and they looked a little scary to me. Why take a chance having everything slip or damage your oil pan and pickup?
Coz recommended I use the aluminum "U" shaped bar that ties the rear subframe together as a template for "dolly #1 ." I did that and took into account the elevation change so the whole subframe/engine would sit level once seated. I bought six 2" casters from a big box store and went to work with a bunch of 2x4's. The only thing I wish I had paid more attention to when making it was how long (front-back) it would be when trying to slide my hoist legs in from the side of the car.
"Dolly #2 " was made to support just the engine and transmission once removed from the subframe. It allowed easy access when removing/installing the transmission. Especially during install for my fragile carbon clutch discs.
Hope that helps.
Dave
shawn110975
Suspended
look at any of my build threads I don't have a lift, but yes I made a dolly that exactly fit the nsx subframe
with 2X4's and 4 wheels from home depot took an hour to build done have had it for years now and 100+ engine drops
- - - Updated - - -
one thing I learned after using it all this time is the size of the wheels I wish I had gotten smaller wheels the bigger wheels 4_ inch tall will bend and that's been scary LOL
with 2X4's and 4 wheels from home depot took an hour to build done have had it for years now and 100+ engine drops
- - - Updated - - -
one thing I learned after using it all this time is the size of the wheels I wish I had gotten smaller wheels the bigger wheels 4_ inch tall will bend and that's been scary LOL
Pics? 
gary
shawn110975
Suspended
exactly my wheels where taller though and I used the same square config, I want to make a better one that the oil pan fit inside and is supported only at the motor mounts and tran.
one day I will but to busy to sit down and make one that fits it like a glove.
one day I will but to busy to sit down and make one that fits it like a glove.
Gary W - That sure is a nice car (and garage)!
Since I didn't have a lift in my garage at the time I did this, I decided to buy a hoist instead of messing around with my regular jack and a bunch of tall jackstands. I jacked up the car a bit, slid dolly#1 under the subframe, hooked up my hoist to the engine/transmission, unbolted everything, then lowered the subframe onto my cradle. Finally, used the hoist to pick up the back of the car (added some blocks of wood under the front wheels to give the front lip clearance), and slid out the subframe.
Then, I made dolly #2 for just the engine and transmission. It was a nice thing to have to help remove/install the tranny on the engine. I used the hoist to separate the engine/transmission from the subframe and place on dolly #2 . Then, I cleaned the subframe and reinstalled it on the car so I could roll the car around (and move it from SC to OR, and then from OR to PA but that's another story).
Anyways, if you use a hoist, make sure you build dolly #1 such that it fits between the hoist legs (green line), and also tall enough so that the subframe and suspension will clear the top of the hoist legs. Mine did just barely on both accounts - I got lucky and was able to roll it out while the rear of the car was lifted in the air.
Both dollies were built with a few locking wheels too.
Hope this helps, at the time I didn't have any pictures to help me through the process... that's why I detailed it on my engine build thread. Don't know how the original pictures were deleted, but I found copies below.
Good luck on your build!
Dave
Oh - the middle casters in the dolly below were due to adding a thin piece of wood over that area. Without the side engine mounts for support, I slid in a thin piece of wood to support the oil pan and stabilize everything on top of those casters. Sorry - I don't seem to have any pics of everything sitting on this dolly.
Since I didn't have a lift in my garage at the time I did this, I decided to buy a hoist instead of messing around with my regular jack and a bunch of tall jackstands. I jacked up the car a bit, slid dolly#1 under the subframe, hooked up my hoist to the engine/transmission, unbolted everything, then lowered the subframe onto my cradle. Finally, used the hoist to pick up the back of the car (added some blocks of wood under the front wheels to give the front lip clearance), and slid out the subframe.
Then, I made dolly #2 for just the engine and transmission. It was a nice thing to have to help remove/install the tranny on the engine. I used the hoist to separate the engine/transmission from the subframe and place on dolly #2 . Then, I cleaned the subframe and reinstalled it on the car so I could roll the car around (and move it from SC to OR, and then from OR to PA but that's another story).
Anyways, if you use a hoist, make sure you build dolly #1 such that it fits between the hoist legs (green line), and also tall enough so that the subframe and suspension will clear the top of the hoist legs. Mine did just barely on both accounts - I got lucky and was able to roll it out while the rear of the car was lifted in the air.
Both dollies were built with a few locking wheels too.
Hope this helps, at the time I didn't have any pictures to help me through the process... that's why I detailed it on my engine build thread. Don't know how the original pictures were deleted, but I found copies below.
Good luck on your build!
Dave
Oh - the middle casters in the dolly below were due to adding a thin piece of wood over that area. Without the side engine mounts for support, I slid in a thin piece of wood to support the oil pan and stabilize everything on top of those casters. Sorry - I don't seem to have any pics of everything sitting on this dolly.
Last edited:
shawn110975
Suspended
Jesus Lord....... I thought my engine was clean yours looks like it came from the factory
and your control arms etc are mint I hate you LOL
and your control arms etc are mint I hate you LOL
It showcases the most technologically advanced automotive aftermarket turbocharged setup out there - It's gotta be clean!
Thanks guys for the input!!! I will try to fab something up based off the pics.
Dave, that is SO CLEAN!
I read it is bad juju to rest the engine/trans on the oil pan and the supports should instead contact the block. Can't tell from your pic, but it looks like you went that direction?
I read it is bad juju to rest the engine/trans on the oil pan and the supports should instead contact the block. Can't tell from your pic, but it looks like you went that direction?
I guess I was wrong on this one.
I don't think having supports on the oil pan and trans are bad as long as you're not supporting the entire load with them. My experience has also been that the heavier the load the harder it is to roll with small wheels.
Are you guys lowering the engine down to cradle with the engine hoist and the jacking the car up high enough to roll it out?
I'd be scared of having the engine hoist come down to fast as mine is very sensitive.
Shawn you should charge an extra $15 for your next 100 engine drops and buy a lift. I'm sure it would save you time.
I don't think having supports on the oil pan and trans are bad as long as you're not supporting the entire load with them. My experience has also been that the heavier the load the harder it is to roll with small wheels.
Are you guys lowering the engine down to cradle with the engine hoist and the jacking the car up high enough to roll it out?
I'd be scared of having the engine hoist come down to fast as mine is very sensitive.
Shawn you should charge an extra $15 for your next 100 engine drops and buy a lift. I'm sure it would save you time.
Last edited:
Dave, that is SO CLEAN!
I read it is bad juju to rest the engine/trans on the oil pan and the supports should instead contact the block. Can't tell from your pic, but it looks like you went that direction?
You should not rely on the oil pan for much support. First, there is not much of a gap between the pan bottom and the oil pickup. If you dent the pan inward in this area it could be catastrophic to your engine if you don't notice and fix it. Also, if you get an uneven load then the pan can locally buckle causing damage to the pickup, windage tray, main oil galley, and who knows what else if it falls over.
For just the engine picture, yes, I was supporting it by the block. You can't see behind the vertical blocks in that picture, but there were strengthening supports for those. My smaller, modified oil pan gives me a bit more space.
Dave
shawn110975
Suspended
I want my next dolly so that the oil pan is free floating not touching anything
but Mac's idea how it uses the OEM supports is really cool
but Mac's idea how it uses the OEM supports is really cool
I think the oil pans are pretty darn strong.
This was when I removed the engine from my old car. It certainly wouldn't be my recommendation on what to do, but the pan had no damage whatsoever. I knew I was installing a new pan with a baffle, once it was in the car, so I didn't think it'd be a problem and it wasn't.
If the Honda factory engine fixture uses the oil pan and transmission for partial support I suspect there is a reason.
- - - Updated - - -
This is my new dolly with 8" wheels that are each rated at 400lbs. It worked excellent. It's easy to move, well balanced, and very sturdy.
It worked like a champ and soon I'll be rolling it out in my driveway to clean the engine.
This was when I removed the engine from my old car. It certainly wouldn't be my recommendation on what to do, but the pan had no damage whatsoever. I knew I was installing a new pan with a baffle, once it was in the car, so I didn't think it'd be a problem and it wasn't.
If the Honda factory engine fixture uses the oil pan and transmission for partial support I suspect there is a reason.
- - - Updated - - -
This is my new dolly with 8" wheels that are each rated at 400lbs. It worked excellent. It's easy to move, well balanced, and very sturdy.
It worked like a champ and soon I'll be rolling it out in my driveway to clean the engine.
I had no intention on testing its strength. You're braver than me!
Your latest cart looks like a better setup than your first one. For those without a lift like the OP and myself, the low-profile one is recommended to reduce how much we need to lift the rest of the car.
Hey, looks like Dali used to sell one:
http://www.daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/gotta_have/service-dolly/?focus=2099
shawn110975
Suspended
oil pan is strong the gasket is not :smile:
Ignorance is bliss. I'm the redneck they joke about who's going to die right after saying, "Hey ya'll watch this".
I'm not ashamed, as I posted the picture of my engine sitting on the pan probably 8 years ago. The pan and gasket were replaced when it was back in the car and I knew I was doing that before setting it on the pan. It wouldn't be my preferred method again, but at least it's now a documented real world example with no damage done by setting it on the pan.
I'm not ashamed, as I posted the picture of my engine sitting on the pan probably 8 years ago. The pan and gasket were replaced when it was back in the car and I knew I was doing that before setting it on the pan. It wouldn't be my preferred method again, but at least it's now a documented real world example with no damage done by setting it on the pan.
