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Lowering springs just arrived.

Joined
10 July 2013
Messages
112
Location
Panama City Fl,
Hello Prime!

Just got my GF210 Tanabe springs from Japan. I wanted to do lowering springs before I sprinted to Tein coilovers.

Just a few questions. After adding the lowring springs do I need to have the car re-aligned? And would you recommend full coilovers over springs anyways?

The struts are Billstein. The springs are about 20% stiffer than standard. 1.3" lower front 1.15" lower rear.
 
I can assure you that the tanabe springs are the best lowering springs made for the nsx. Combined with the bilstein shocks it should make for quite a good package. they work awesome with the konis i have so the bilstiens shouldn't be much different


Also it definitely wont hurt to align it.
 
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Alignment is very highly recommended after a lowering spring installation. My experience is to wait a week or two for the suspension to "settle" before alignment since the static height tends to change slightly from the day of installation. Tons of people will argue left and right as to when to align. Some claim that no suspension "settles" and it's perfectly fine to align immediately after installation. But from my experience every one of my cars that I've put lowering springs on ends up lower by at least 1/4" in 1-2 weeks later than the day of installation.
 
I can assure you that the tanabe springs are the best lowering springs made for the nsx. Combined with the bilstein shocks it should make for quite a good package. they work awesome with the konis i have so the bilstiens shouldn't be much different


Also it definitely wont hurt to align it.


Very cool. I figured they would be a good combination.

Alignment is very highly recommended after a lowering spring installation. My experience is to wait a week or two for the suspension to "settle" before alignment since the static height tends to change slightly from the day of installation. Tons of people will argue left and right as to when to align. Some claim that no suspension "settles" and it's perfectly fine to align immediately after installation. But from my experience every one of my cars that I've put lowering springs on ends up lower by at least 1/4" in 1-2 weeks later than the day of installation.

A buddy of mine said to align it immediately, but I think I'll wait a few days.

Also, I'm doing this myself and am having a hard time getting the rear struts out, one side is done. But if anyone has a suggestion on the easiest removal method Let me know haha!

my steps. loosen rear sway bar rear bushings (hanging freely)
loosen strut mount (sway bar bolt)
loosen upper control arm bolts (all 4 botls to the frame to avoid removing the calipers / brake line so I don't have to bleed) so upper ball join can move outward for strut removal.
I don;t have air tools or electric impacts so this is taking some time heheheh.

good times!
 
wait a week or 2. what is the rush.

well when I pulled the passenger side rear wheel off the inside of the tire is worn down A LOT. but on the drivers side the wear is minimal. I'm guessing I have a toe issue or the car hasn't been aligned for a long time. I found the same problem on the front only it was on the drivers side. or the chassis might be tweaked form an accident in 05. not sure. I still need to have the chassis
measured.

so I'd like to get it aligned asap. I already bought new front's. now I have to buy rears.
 
Spring compressors make it easy. $50 deposit at my auto parts store, but I got it all back when I returned them. No need to compress the Tanabes going in.
 
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Spring compressors make it easy. $50 deposit at my auto parts store, but I got it all back when I returned them. No need to compress the Tanabes going in.

I went and bought a spring compressor for 27$ at sears along with a 301 pc toolkit that was on a HUGE sale. Oddly enough I had to compress the tanabe's slightly when putting one on the rear strut I had finished. I'm going to finish the passengers side tonight (hopefully after work).
 
well when I pulled the passenger side rear wheel off the inside of the tire is worn down A LOT. but on the drivers side the wear is minimal. I'm guessing I have a toe issue or the car hasn't been aligned for a long time. I found the same problem on the front only it was on the drivers side. or the chassis might be tweaked form an accident in 05. not sure. I still need to have the chassis
measured.

so I'd like to get it aligned asap. I already bought new front's. now I have to buy rears.

How often do you drive the car? If it's like 100 miles or less in 2 weeks, then wait.
Think about what you're doing here. Remember the alignment is done at the static sitting height. In most cars as the height is dropped, the toe settings also change. If you align right away and the car drops another 1/2" or so, you've basically just wasted your alignment because the static toe has now changed as well. I would also advise doing the alignment with you sitting in the car (or at least weights in the seat equaling what you weigh if the shop won't let you sit in it).
I drive mine like once a week, so maybe 30 miles in two weeks if I'm lucky, so tire wear is minimal in that period.
 
usually the right side tires wear more than the left since most 2 lane roads slope towards the sides for water drainage.
 
How often do you drive the car? If it's like 100 miles or less in 2 weeks, then wait.
Think about what you're doing here. Remember the alignment is done at the static sitting height. In most cars as the height is dropped, the toe settings also change. If you align right away and the car drops another 1/2" or so, you've basically just wasted your alignment because the static toe has now changed as well. I would also advise doing the alignment with you sitting in the car (or at least weights in the seat equaling what you weigh if the shop won't let you sit in it).
I drive mine like once a week, so maybe 30 miles in two weeks if I'm lucky, so tire wear is minimal in that period.

I drive mine maybe 2-3 times a week and mostly on the weekends. I live 20 miles form work so its 40 miles a day "if" I just drive to and from, but who wants to do that when your in an nsx? So I'd say I rack up a miimum of 100 - 200 miles a week M-F. Thats some really good advice about letting the suspension settle, but I'm sure after a day or two of some spirited driving I can have it aligned. Planning a 400 or so mile road trip to South Carolina in 2 weeks so maybe I can have it aligned there in the Columbia area?

usually the right side tires wear more than the left since most 2 lane roads slope towards the sides for water drainage.

I'll throw some photos up of the difference, its quite drastic. All of the bushings seem fine, no rot, just very minor cracking. I don't see and bent suspension components. thanks for all the feedback so far! Updates soon. with some photos. maybe turn this thread into a DIY.
 
yes align soon after you lower it. I lowered mine with ebachs

then had the tune the suspension to Autocross mode. almost everything maxed out LOL
 
I'm looking forward to seeing your photos. I used the upper perch, and the results weren't all that dramatic; which is okay with me, because even with the stock springs, I would scrape my driveway if I wasn't careful. So far, I like the Tanabes. Slightly stiffer than stock, and not the least bit unpleasant. I've ridden in some cars that you couldn't drive over a cigarette butt without feeling it; and I didn't want that.

Before

before.jpg

After

With Tanabe.jpg

Old and New

New spring.jpg
 
I'm looking forward to seeing your photos. I used the upper perch, and the results weren't all that dramatic; which is okay with me, because even with the stock springs, I would scrape my driveway if I wasn't careful. So far, I like the Tanabes. Slightly stiffer than stock, and not the least bit unpleasant. I've ridden in some cars that you couldn't drive over a cigarette butt without feeling it; and I didn't want that.

Before

View attachment 106885

After

View attachment 106886

Old and New

View attachment 106887


Looks quite nice! Do the Bilstein's come with those new top hats?
 
It appears that you have the the lower spring perch on the Bilstien's lower setting.

Are you referring to my Old and New photo? No, the groove you see in the photo is an extra one that I had cut 10mm above the upper perch. I initially thought I would go with H&R springs, and was worried the drop on the upper perch might be too much. In fact, I had 2 additional grooves cut on each shock; one 10mm above, and one 10mm below the upper perch, so I'd have more adjustment than just the two standard grooves.
 
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