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NSXPrime member going above and beyond

Joined
11 November 2002
Messages
1,658
Location
St. Louis
First off, while this is about paint protection and care, it is really about the generosity of a fellow NSXPrime member. I can’t express how grateful and appreciative that I am for the generosity of Corry or Autobody Tech. As some of you may or may not know, for the last year I was living with annoying water spots on the hood of my car due to my wife leaving the car in the sun under a sprinkler. I had tried per the advice of everybody almost everything known to man including vinegar, CLR, Scratch X, Clay, prayer, chanting, exorcism and with no luck. Since Corry owns a body shop and has done this for many years, he offered to get together because he knew how to remove the spots.

When I spoke to him on the phone, I was right in the middle of a project for the NSX. I had removed the door panels and center console for repainting the plastic pieces due to the metallic film going bad over time. I had attempted this project last year with some success, but wanted to try to do a better job. I had sanded, used the bondo with not the results that I wanted, and had painted them with Krylon paint from Lowes. Upon telling Corry what I have been doing, I could almost hear his jaw dropping through the phone. He said, “you need to get over here because you are not doing it right”. So in addition to the water spots, he was now committed to helping me paint my console pieces. At that point, he didn’t know how much trouble he had gotten himself into. J

With the door panels off and the windows down, I excitedly made the 35-minute trip to his house. The weather was beautiful, it wasn’t too hot, but hey you’re in Missouri, so wait 10 minutes and that will change. I started to notice some darkened clouds approaching. It was then I realized that I left the passenger window switch back at my house so it was staying down whether I liked it or not. Just about then, the temp dropped 15-20 degrees in what seemed seconds, lightning and thunder followed, and then the rain. We were scurrying to do anything to prevent the rain from coming in. We ended up parking it length ways right up against the opening of his garage coupled with plastic bags to stop the massacre.

Just when you thought it was safe, it started to hail. I thought about using Corry’s restroom to clean the excess debris from my Calvin Klein’s as he scrambled to get blankets to put the on rear quarter panel to prevent any damage. I mean I just got her back from the body shop after being rear-ended and now I was going to have to make another claim for hail damage. Ugh! The hail was pelting the cars in the street and when Corry brought me a sample from outside (super ball sized, bigger than marble but smaller than a golf ball), I was almost certain it would not be good.

Unfortunately, it doesn’t stop there. Next comes the wind. Trees were falling down all over his subdivision and a good size branch is ripped off one of his own trees and lands near the end of the driveway. All I need is for my X to be transformed from a sports car to a tree house in an instant.

To make it even more interesting, then the power went out. I guess that is good because at least you don’t have as good of vision when you are viewing the possible demise of your possessions. To my surprise, the storm started to subside, but I had to wait for the rain to let up before I ventured out on the trip home. Waiting, waiting, and waiting. Corry was extremely hospitable and contemplated charging me rent as I was there for a while. I decided that we would try to tape it up with plastic and risk it. I had taken enough of his time and energy. Cory taped everything up really well for me and I made way. About half way into the ride, it started to POUR again. I was amazed by Corry’s taping job held perfect. I didn’t have a drop of water come into the vehicle the whole time. Also, with the blankets, I didn’t have one dent in the car whereas almost every other car on the street did have damage.

To make a long story even longer, I came back over there a few days later, he removed the water spots and we painted the console pieces and it turned out amazing. This is a true test of what kind of people that NSXPrime attracts. His efforts are really appreciated and I can’t thank him enough. Pics attached.
 

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and another

more pics...kind of fuzzy but hard to focus that close
 

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last one

It has a metallic finish with a pearl coat on top so it reflects other colors in the sun.
 

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Kudo's, Corry! Looks very nice. ;)
 
nsxtasy said:
Nice story, nice job.

What did he do to remove the water spots?

Corry will be able to explain better, but he started out carefully using an orbital buffer and compound. He said you have to know how to do it right or you could easily burn through the paint on the edges. He then moved to a softer pad and used the Maguires #9 with the buffer. (he tried it by itself and it didn't work without using the compound first) Lastly, I followed up with some paint cleaner and then carnuba wax. It made a huge difference, the water spots are gone, and it made the paint seem much blacker. Zaino was giving me a cloudy gloss and I have switched to Carnuba Wax and like it much better.
 
PoohBEAR said:
How did you get all those peels or old tape off of the console if NOT sanded?

Are you talking about the metallic tape that is the primary finish of the console? That is a tremendous pain to get off. I don't recommend getting it completely off it you are having as much trouble as I did, plus you don't really need to remove it all. We just removed as much as we could, sanded the hell out of the rest so the paint would stick and so that the edges of where the tape stated and plastic started were feathered fairly well. First I tried to fill in those lines with Bondo, but that didn't work well. Corry sprayed a primer on there that allowed him to wet sand those grooves out to make perfectly smooth.

The good thing is that is doesn't scratch like the previous attempt of Krylon, wetsanding, then waxing. It looked ok, but was real fragile. This time it is just like an exterior finish with clearcoat that is hard.
 
Thanks so much for the tip. I was thinking if there is something I can do to get it all off. I tried hair blower....but didnt' help. btw, I am doing the same thing to the console and armrest. :D

jlindy said:
Are you talking about the metallic tape that is the primary finish of the console? That is a tremendous pain to get off. I don't recommend getting it completely off it you are having as much trouble as I did, plus you don't really need to remove it all. We just removed as much as we could, sanded the hell out of the rest so the paint would stick and so that the edges of where the tape stated and plastic started were feathered fairly well. First I tried to fill in those lines with Bondo, but that didn't work well. Corry sprayed a primer on there that allowed him to wet sand those grooves out to make perfectly smooth.

The good thing is that is doesn't scratch like the previous attempt of Krylon, wetsanding, then waxing. It looked ok, but was real fragile. This time it is just like an exterior finish with clearcoat that is hard.
 
PoohBEAR said:
Thanks so much for the tip. I was thinking if there is something I can do to get it all off. I tried hair blower....but didnt' help. btw, I am doing the same thing to the console and armrest. :D

Yeah, at first I thought that I would just sand off all that film and after blowing through a bunch of sandpaper and an elbow joint, I was still needing to sand more. SLOW PROCESS and not worth it when you can just fill it and paint over it.
 
1. remove all flaking metal from part.

2. sand part evenly with 120 grit paper.

3. clean part with glass cleaner.

4. two coats of hi fill laquer primer.

5. when primer is dry (1/2 hour), mist with guidecoat.

6. wetsand with 600 grit till smooth without sanding through the primer, use guidecoat to know when to stop.

7. clean part with glasscleaner then clean part again with acrysolv.

8. remove dust with tackcloth.

9. spray basecoat (2 coats) let dry 15 min.

10. spray one coat of clear and let dry overnight.

All products used are PPG since it sprays thin and shrinks about 50% when dry.You want a thin hard coating, not a fat orange peel coating that scratches and wears easily.

An automotive paint store has the ability to put the primer, base, and clear into an aresol can!

Thankyou Jeff for the kind words, It is worth the effort to meet a person of good calibur.
 
Hello

I have hard water spots on a qtr panel. I've tried buffing it out w/ Meguiar's step 1 cleaner and tried their scratch remover. The water spots are about 70% less but will not clear w/ further buffing. I only used a Ryobi 9" orbital buffer. Car is formula red...believe it was painted 4 years ago.


Any ideas?

Thx

Jeff
 
I have hard water spots on a qtr panel. I've tried buffing it out w/ Meguiar's step 1 cleaner and tried their scratch remover. The water spots are about 70% less but will not clear w/ further buffing. I only used a Ryobi 9" orbital buffer. Car is formula red...believe it was painted 4 years ago.


Any ideas?

Thx

Yes , First be sure the panel is clean from debris, use meguiars #3 machine glaze with a #8006 foam cutting pad at 1500-2000 rpm to completely remove the spots, then follow with #9 swirl remover and a #9006 pad. Start in a 3' by 3' area Be sure to allow the compounds to break down completely before wiping clean and moving to another 3' by3' area. Overlap your passes with the pad by 50% while moving in rows left to right. Results may vary depending on skill level, but these compounds are very light and friendly if you keep under 2000 rpm.
 
PoohBEAR said:
How did you get all those peels or old tape off of the console if NOT sanded?
When I did mine, I found that it would peel off cleanly if you could get under it. It's fairly easy to do this with an x-acto knife at a place where it's already bubbled. For other areas, I found what worked pretty well (if you already have the console piece out) was to cut through the metal finish on the sides of the console (the vertical part which you don't see when it's installed) and then pick at it with the knife until you get the peel started.

The absolute worst place to do is the part under the e-brake which just would not peel for me and I wound up sanding. Overall, I think I managed to get about 90% removed with the slow controlled peel technique .. but it was slow.

I started this link a while back which has more info:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21753&highlight=console
 
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