-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
Abs Not Working
- Thread starter gtjim
- Start date
First, I am not an expert on the NSX ABS-system but have worked just a little on it in the past.
Check the ABS-fuses in the fuse-box.
Check the fluid level in the ABS-reservoir
Also, check the four ABS-connectors in the front bay. If any one of those is not connected right, the ABS light will come also.
When was the last time you have flushed your ABS-fluid?
Check the ABS-fuses in the fuse-box.
Check the fluid level in the ABS-reservoir
Also, check the four ABS-connectors in the front bay. If any one of those is not connected right, the ABS light will come also.
When was the last time you have flushed your ABS-fluid?
I had a same problem but Brad fixed it for me! He used some special tools that he created by himself, to bypass the abs relay, then run the abs pump to changed all the break fluid for all four abs solenoids, after the whole system clean up, my abs light is working normal now...
check this out: http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105403
I got some pictures that shows how he work on my car, if you want them I can send to your email, just pm me your email address
good luck,
JZ
check this out: http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105403
I got some pictures that shows how he work on my car, if you want them I can send to your email, just pm me your email address
good luck,
JZ
Last edited:
Oh, btw, he saved me almost $800 (if I let some repair shop to do it), I just paid for a can of break cleaner and 2 qts of break fluid! Thanks for Brad.
so make sure you don't bring it to the mechanic so soon...
JZ
so make sure you don't bring it to the mechanic so soon...
JZ
Well, If the ABS light is illuminated the pump will not operate. How long have you owned the car? What year is it? How long has the ABS light been ON? Has the ABS system leaked brake fluid from the ABS reservoir filler cap down all over the ABS modulator? Where do you live? What have you done to correct the problem? This will get us started.
Brad
OK, GOOD. Now we have a starting point. More than likely your ABS system has the systemic problem of a leaky solenoid in the modulator. (The part located directly under the ABS reservoir. I (and most other NSX owners) have been having pretty good luck with flushing and cycling the ABS system to correct the problem. This will be the first step. Where do you live?
How mechanical are you? Go to http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage then go down the list to ABS, print out the instructions and read it a couple times. He did a good job. No need for me to reiterate what he has done. I have made some additional tools that really help in keeping the air out of the system. After you read the DIY let me know if you think that you could do the procedure. Then we will take it to the next step, OK.
Brad
Got a question on the solenoid plugs. Do you push down or lift up the tab on the orange solenoid plugs to separate them? I tried both way but it wouldn't come off. Didn't want pull too hard until I know the proper procedures.
Thanks...:wink:
The solenoid connectors join with the chassis wiring harness connectors and then attach to the hangar bracket. First, remove the orange connectors from the hangar bracket by pushing the orange tab TOWARD the wires in the connector. This tab has a slot in the center of it that has a small curve. Take a look. Push the tab and gently lift/push the connector UP and off of the bracket. Start with the one on the LEFT as looking from the front of the car. Remove all four pair of connectors.
Next, you find the tab on the opposite side and other end of the connector. This tab is in the center of the end of the connector. It has small ripples in the tab. Push the two connector parts like you are pushing them together, then push the tab and the connectors should pull apart. By pushing them together is allows the lock to release easier.
Don't worry about keeping them identified they will only go back together one way. I hope this is understandable. Let me know if not.
Brad
Got it... it is the second tab that I had some problems with. Thx...:wink:
To cycle the pump to build up the pressure, I wonder if I can use a paper clip to connect the two terminals on the relay motor?
Forget the paper clip as you want a switch so you can easily turn it on and off. I just used an old switch I had from my house and connected it to a couple wires. Then installed two blade type female connectors on the wires which fit nicely onto the relay terminals. You will also need another switch to cycle the solenoids. I found an old doorbell push button which worked perfectly as you want it to be a momentary switch so it will not leave the solenoids energized when not being pushed. That one gets connected to the batteries which you can either use alligator clips or just jam the wires between the battery connectors somehow. To connect to the solenoids you will need 2 of the smallest alligator clips you can find and 2 small jumper wires to poke into the 2 female connectors as the alligator clips will not go in to all 4.
I spent a few hours yesterday and its still not working properly as 3 solenoids are moving, 1 not at all and only one of the 3 is allowing fluid back to the reservoir. I had trouble with the ABS for the last few years so just disconnected the fuse but it still was screwing up the braking as it started to pull aggressively one way and after working the solenoids, it is now pulling aggressively the other way! There are a lot of small parts which have to be just right. Its one of those things that once you touch it, you have to get it working 100% or you will be screwed!
I am seriously thinking about getting the ABS killer kit from Dali for $ 70.00 and just taking the whole mess out. Its either that or 2Gs from SOS for the updated system. I never drive in the rain or snow and have been let down by this and other ABS systems a lot more than they have ever helped me. After researching the design and all the necessary things that have to work on this 17 yr old part, it scares the crap out of me as I do track the car on occasion and a failure at speed would be ugly to say the least!
Todays job may be to disassemble the unit itself to see if I can free up the sticky parts. Can't find any info on this other than the manual saying you shouldn't do it:biggrin:
If I screw it up and am not confident about the repair, it stays out and I will then have to use the good old right foot method of anti lock!
Cheers and good luck
I spent a few hours yesterday and its still not working properly as 3 solenoids are moving, 1 not at all and only one of the 3 is allowing fluid back to the reservoir. I had trouble with the ABS for the last few years so just disconnected the fuse but it still was screwing up the braking as it started to pull aggressively one way and after working the solenoids, it is now pulling aggressively the other way! There are a lot of small parts which have to be just right. Its one of those things that once you touch it, you have to get it working 100% or you will be screwed!
I am seriously thinking about getting the ABS killer kit from Dali for $ 70.00 and just taking the whole mess out. Its either that or 2Gs from SOS for the updated system. I never drive in the rain or snow and have been let down by this and other ABS systems a lot more than they have ever helped me. After researching the design and all the necessary things that have to work on this 17 yr old part, it scares the crap out of me as I do track the car on occasion and a failure at speed would be ugly to say the least!
Todays job may be to disassemble the unit itself to see if I can free up the sticky parts. Can't find any info on this other than the manual saying you shouldn't do it:biggrin:
If I screw it up and am not confident about the repair, it stays out and I will then have to use the good old right foot method of anti lock!
Cheers and good luck
Interesting....
My car doesn't have any pulling problems, but the pump does cycle once in awhile.
Is the Solenoid flush recommended as routine maintenance or should it be left alone as it may break something else in the process?
My car doesn't have any pulling problems, but the pump does cycle once in awhile.
Is the Solenoid flush recommended as routine maintenance or should it be left alone as it may break something else in the process?
My car was real low mileage for a 91 ( 30 k when I bought it 3 yrs ago) and the original owner seemed to have not done any maintenance other than basic fluid changes. I don't think it ever worked properly since I got it. Once after coming back from a 2 week vacation, I took it out and proceeded to sail right through a stoplight as it seemed only one front brake wanted to engage
After some in car ABS exercising it seemed to work again but this did not last long as the pump was running on occasion and I just didn't trust it. I took out the ABS fuse to stop the pump and the brakes ( without ABS ) were OK for the last year . Then it got into a weird mood where the brakes were all good for the first 20 mins or so and then the F left seemed to give up and the car really pulled right. After trying to free them with the normal technique of running the pump and jogging the solenoids etc, it now pulls seriously left. I knew they were not functioning as 1 wasn't clicking at all and 2 others would not return fluid so just took it out for an easy test to see what the result was.
Took out the entire ALB unit today and tried to get the bypass kit from Dali but they are out of stock so I'll be scrambling trying to get the fittings to at least get it back on the road.
My feelings are the poor thing just sat too long so even the maintenance procedures won't free it all up. I may try taking it apart but if you have ever seen the entire unit out of the car , its a huge complicated looking contraption and weighs about 15 lbs so it may just stay out!
After some in car ABS exercising it seemed to work again but this did not last long as the pump was running on occasion and I just didn't trust it. I took out the ABS fuse to stop the pump and the brakes ( without ABS ) were OK for the last year . Then it got into a weird mood where the brakes were all good for the first 20 mins or so and then the F left seemed to give up and the car really pulled right. After trying to free them with the normal technique of running the pump and jogging the solenoids etc, it now pulls seriously left. I knew they were not functioning as 1 wasn't clicking at all and 2 others would not return fluid so just took it out for an easy test to see what the result was.
Took out the entire ALB unit today and tried to get the bypass kit from Dali but they are out of stock so I'll be scrambling trying to get the fittings to at least get it back on the road.
My feelings are the poor thing just sat too long so even the maintenance procedures won't free it all up. I may try taking it apart but if you have ever seen the entire unit out of the car , its a huge complicated looking contraption and weighs about 15 lbs so it may just stay out!
The first thing that I would do is try the flush. I have found that it has fixed most of the cars that have had ABS solenoid seeping problems. What do you have to loose? If you don't have time to do that you may just want to jump the connections at the pressure switch. This will tell the ABS computer that the pressure is up to spec and the pump will not cycle. What I have done here is to go to the local salvage yard and find a connector from a wrecked Honda / Acura and then just tie the two wires together and plug it into the harness on the vehicle side.
Just remember if you do this that the ABS caution light will not illuminate and the ABS system WILL NOT function normally. Don't slam on the brakes and then wonder why you have FLAT SPOTS on your tires!
Brad
Thanks Brad...
Does the solenoid flush have the same effect as exercising the ABS on wet pavement? If so, then I guess the solenoid flush is safe to perform. :smile:
I guess I will have to run the pump to build up the pressure for each of the 4 solenoids before the flush?
BTW, what is the yellow wire on the solenoid plug is for?
Thanks ...:wink:
Does the solenoid flush have the same effect as exercising the ABS on wet pavement? If so, then I guess the solenoid flush is safe to perform. :smile:
I guess I will have to run the pump to build up the pressure for each of the 4 solenoids before the flush?
BTW, what is the yellow wire on the solenoid plug is for?
Thanks ...:wink:
you need the abs unit flushed and "exercised", as it never gets used and gets gummy if not used and the pistons stick and then the unit will pump all the fluid out on the ground. Acura does not do the repair, they will only replace the unit for about $5k. There is a special tool required to get the unit apart. Go to a third party NSX repair shop and they will do it. Autowave in Huntington Beach CA will do it, as will others.
The solenoid has two valves in it. One is normally open (NO) which is controlled by the yellow wire. One is normally closed (NC) which is controlled by the red wire. The (NO) valve allows release of pressure from the modulator when it is open and allows pressure to be routed to the modulator when it is closed. It is only closed when the ABS ECU closes is momentarily to actuate a modulator valve in the instance of ABS actuation.
The (NC) valve controls the HI PRESSURE (4800 PSI) fluid into the modulator for actuation. This is the valve that is being cycled when you do a flush. This is the valve that causes the pump to cycle when it seeps.
If you have any other questions speak up.
Brad
The (NC) valve controls the HI PRESSURE (4800 PSI) fluid into the modulator for actuation. This is the valve that is being cycled when you do a flush. This is the valve that causes the pump to cycle when it seeps.
If you have any other questions speak up.
Brad
- Joined
- 15 May 2004
- Messages
- 6,898
more details?
