alignment, handling, and dial - in advice

[tiki240]

Went in for an alignment thus morning. Asked for 91 specs. Here's what I ended up with.

Left front camber: -1.3 deg
Left front caster: 8.4 deg
Left front toe: -.15 deg

Right front camber: -1.2 deg
Right front caster: 8.5 deg
Right front toe: -.14

Total front toe: -.28 deg
Steer ahead: 0.00

Left rear camber: -3.2 deg
Left rear toe: .16 deg

Right rear camber: -2.0 deg
Right rear toe: .15 deg

Total rear toe: .31 deg
Thrust angle: 0.00

Tech noted the left front and rear camber adjustments are at their max. Car tracks straight. But steering wheel shakes.. front end feels... very light/ loose compared to a buddies nsx.

Tires just got put on and were balanced perfectly. (I watched).

Wheels are 17x 7.5 +45 with Yokohama Ad08 215/40/17 and 18x9 +35 with ad08 265/35/18.

32psi fronts 40 psi rears.



Thoughts? Already checked ball joints and tie rods and endlinks.

 

[1-Old-Man]

Rod ends and ball joints, your air pressures look a little high to me.

 

[tiki240]

Also note: she's lowered on Tanabe GF210 springs. Oem shocks. I was thinking, could the left side of the cars shocks be in bad shape? Would that impact the alignment? The only thing I could think of was if the shocks were somehow Allowing the car to be lower on the left, causing more negative camber.. just trying to dial her in.

 

[papolito20]

Curious to see what’s causing your steering wheel vibration/shake. I’m in the same boat. Had the alignment done along with the ball joints and rods but my steering wheel still shakes. Tech thinks it’s the steering rack and wants to replace it to address the issue.

 

[tiki240]

Curious to see what’s causing your steering wheel vibration/shake. I’m in the same boat. Had the alignment done along with the ball joints and rods but my steering wheel still shakes. Tech thinks it’s the steering rack and wants to replace it to address the issue.

We think we've narrowed it down to having aftermarket wheels and no hubcentric rings.. after searching billions of pages here on prime, a read a members post who had a similar problem.. try this to see if it might be your problem too: Jack the car up, and remove all the front lug nuts except for two i.e. # 1 & #3. loosen the remaining two till they are finger-loose, (that is to say, you could spin them off with your fingers). now, shake the wheel as you finger tighten lug nuts 1 and 3. What you are trying to do is center the wheel on the lugs themselves with no play leftover so they arent biased to any side. repeat the process as you finger tighten the rest of the lugs. then tighten as normal (see: to spec. which IIRC, is 80ft.lbs) then go for a drive. If this significantly cuts down on the vibration ( it did for me), and you DONT already have hub-centric rings, buy them. note: even with hubcentric rings installed, repeat the process for lug-centering the wheel so everything is as 100% centered as possible. My rings come in wednesday, ill report back.

We re-inspected all the ball joints and tie rods and there is zero play and no rips in any of them. the only options left are these hub centric rings and the rack itself. HTH...

 

[Hapa88]

Rod ends and ball joints, your air pressures look a little high to me.

OEM recommends the air pressures be 33 psi front/ 40 psi rear. Tire pressures are OK by me.

We re-inspected all the ball joints and tie rods and there is zero play and no rips in any of them. the only options left are these hub centric rings and the rack itself. HTH...

Yeah get hubrings for your wheels. You can get them on eBay.