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anti lag for aem ems

there are a few ways of doing this if you see the image below, in the setup tab there are your main rev limits and 2 step rev limits. the wizard decides how harsh the cut is, between a 300rpm drop and an instantaneous one this is up to you.

the second part is your fuel cut, ignition cut, and retard rev. you want to use the ignition cut here so set your ign cut to the rpm you want your 2 step to hold steady, and set the fuel cut a substantial amount higher than the ignition cut as this wont be used. for the retard rev i would start about 1200-1500rpm below your ignition cut. you will also notice an input option, this is if you are using a clutch switch of some sort, i mostly just set the OK below VSS to 6mph, and set the input option to Switch is always on.

for example to start off

Switch is always
fuel cut 8000
ignition cut 5500rpm
ok below VSS 6 mph
retard rev 4000rpm

see how much boost this generates and go from there. increase the retard rev closer to the ignition cut to generate less boost, and vice versa.

another option you may have to make it easier to dial in would be if you use the aem box as a boost controller with a solenoid. you can set your 0mph boost setting to your desired antilag boost pressure as this will help keep the antilag pressure at or below your desired value. use this in conjunction with the 2 step settings.

aemantilag2.jpg
 
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I know you used it as an example but 6mph is too high, just thought I would mention.

And don't use the clutch switch, I never like this.
 
You will like the MPH better, that way it disengages the 2 step as soon as the car moves, 1-2 MPH is good - if you use the clutch switch it's almost like the car starts revving as soon as you lift the pedal, so now it's on the 8500 limiter by the time your clutch grabs - seems harder on the clutch and the whole car...
 
what about the no lift shifting? If I miss a shift(which is likely) with the clutch still in this could save my motor, or is there something else I should be doing?
 
You will like the MPH better, that way it disengages the 2 step as soon as the car moves, 1-2 MPH is good - if you use the clutch switch it's almost like the car starts revving as soon as you lift the pedal, so now it's on the 8500 limiter by the time your clutch grabs - seems harder on the clutch and the whole car...

ive never had a problem at 6mph. in my cars i would often apply the e-brake and drag the car to stage so if it hit 1-2mph for any reason i wouldnt want it to hit 10k+ accidentally so i just set it to 5-6mph. but obviously this is something that could easily be changed as necessary.
 
just out of curiosity what are the best 60 foot times you been able to post at the race track. I launched my car at 5200 rpm on the two step(maybe not set up right) and broke an axle in my quest of a 1.59 or better 60 foot time. So far my best 60 foot time has been 1.68 but did not complete the pass as the charge line blew off at half track. I beleive that the car was on a 10.7-9 pass(based on my time of 11.1 with a 1.86 60 foot). What my goal is is a great launch that minimizes the amount of damage that I can do to the car. This may not be possible but craigcathy did it and was quite successful at it, so I know it can be done.
 
what about the no lift shifting? If I miss a shift(which is likely) with the clutch still in this could save my motor, or is there something else I should be doing?

im not an AEM guru by any means and this i purely theoretical since i havent done it but i think you could setup an additional condition for this in the options->configure outputs menu. choose a blank output that you wont use. i used FM here just as an example im not sure what would work for you.

the clutch switch used would provide a ground at SW#1 activating the table criteria. so whenever the clutch is engaged, and the RPM is over 6000rpm(whatever rpm you desire the engine RPM to drop to during Full throttle shifting.) and all the other criteria is met it will cut ignition until it drops below 6000rpm and should then hold steady.

aemfullthrottleshift.jpg
 
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just out of curiosity what are the best 60 foot times you been able to post at the race track. I launched my car at 5200 rpm on the two step(maybe not set up right) and broke an axle in my quest of a 1.59 or better 60 foot time. So far my best 60 foot time has been 1.68 but did not complete the pass as the charge line blew off at half track. I beleive that the car was on a 10.7-9 pass(based on my time of 11.1 with a 1.86 60 foot). What my goal is is a great launch that minimizes the amount of damage that I can do to the car. This may not be possible but craigcathy did it and was quite successful at it, so I know it can be done.

wish i could comment, but im new to the NSX most of my track experience was with high hp FWD, mostly low 1.6x sixty foots.
 
one other question, is the two step controlled by the anti lag or is the anti lag controlled by the two step or are they both totally seperate from each other:confused:
 
one other question, is the two step controlled by the anti lag or is the anti lag controlled by the two step or are they both totally seperate from each other:confused:

Anti lag is for rally cars to keep boost when switching gears at any speed, 2step is lunch control.
 
one other question, is the two step controlled by the anti lag or is the anti lag controlled by the two step or are they both totally seperate from each other:confused:

the 2 step is just a launching rev limiter, nothing else. this allows for consistant launching. often times you dont even need anti lag because the 2 step alone tends to generate some boost off the line.

anti lag works in conjunction with your 2step to produce boost off the line by taking away timing and adding fuel. it can also be setup between gears ala rally style antilag. aem has some more advanced setting you can dig through as well in setup->advanced setup->anti-lag turbo->drag race anti-lag->options

aemadvancedantilag.jpg
 
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I know you used it as an example but 6mph is too high, just thought I would mention.

And don't use the clutch switch, I never like this.

I love angus but THIS IS POO INFORMATION he is giving out.

Every setup is different as to when you should turn off the 2 step. For my car I have it set at 8 MPH. When I set it at 5 or 2, the car will start to move, get to 2 mph, and then rev up and just WASH the tires. So basically I use the MPH as a part of traction control you could say. I keep the revs and boost stuck at the 2 step limit till 8 mph as I have found that when I let the car rev at that point there is enough traction to unleash the power of the motor.

When I took the 335/30/18 tires off the back and put on some 275/50/15 drag slicks, I was able to move the 2step down to 5 mph.

I am basically saying is that every car will be different and need a different MPH to really take advantage of 2 step and give the car a good hard launch. DON'T just follow angus and set it at 2 mph.

JR

PS Follow anugus on 99.9% of all his other posts and they are always very good information
 
I love angus but THIS IS POO INFORMATION he is giving out.

Every setup is different as to when you should turn off the 2 step. For my car I have it set at 8 MPH. When I set it at 5 or 2, the car will start to move, get to 2 mph, and then rev up and just WASH the tires. So basically I use the MPH as a part of traction control you could say. I keep the revs and boost stuck at the 2 step limit till 8 mph as I have found that when I let the car rev at that point there is enough traction to unleash the power of the motor.

When I took the 335/30/18 tires off the back and put on some 275/50/15 drag slicks, I was able to move the 2step down to 5 mph.

I am basically saying is that every car will be different and need a different MPH to really take advantage of 2 step and give the car a good hard launch. DON'T just follow angus and set it at 2 mph.

JR

PS Follow anugus on 99.9% of all his other posts and they are always very good information

OK JR, you are totally correct that every car is different, although I am pretty sure that Brian needs a little more power off the line with his current setup and that's why I suggested he try a lower MPH to come off the 2 step - it will be trial and error and it may well be that he can set it to 5mph or 6 or 8...

I am just saying that "I never like it that way" but YES - there are cars that may need it set any different number of ways -

I'm also thinking that if a car "fires" the tires off the line, then the RPM needs to come down instead of raising the MPH that it comes off the 2 step, AGAIN - this is just my opinion - the 2 step settings are so easy to alter and experiment with there is no harm in trying it all different ways.

ALL information should be weighed before proceeding, this is just common sense - I'm not trying to mislead Brian here, only offer what worked for me - now you have given your info that works for you and he can try that too.

Sorry for any confusion guys.
 
I love angus but THIS IS POO INFORMATION he is giving out.

Every setup is different as to when you should turn off the 2 step. For my car I have it set at 8 MPH. When I set it at 5 or 2, the car will start to move, get to 2 mph, and then rev up and just WASH the tires. So basically I use the MPH as a part of traction control you could say. I keep the revs and boost stuck at the 2 step limit till 8 mph as I have found that when I let the car rev at that point there is enough traction to unleash the power of the motor.

When I took the 335/30/18 tires off the back and put on some 275/50/15 drag slicks, I was able to move the 2step down to 5 mph.

I am basically saying is that every car will be different and need a different MPH to really take advantage of 2 step and give the car a good hard launch. DON'T just follow angus and set it at 2 mph.

JR

PS Follow anugus on 99.9% of all his other posts and they are always very good information




I understand and it looks like you have raced at the track(assumption because you used drag radials) could you give me a starting point and let me know what your best 60 foot time would be with that setup Thanks Brian
 
OK JR, you are totally correct that every car is different, although I am pretty sure that Brian needs a little more power off the line with his current setup and that's why I suggested he try a lower MPH to come off the 2 step - it will be trial and error and it may well be that he can set it to 5mph or 6 or 8...

I am just saying that "I never like it that way" but YES - there are cars that may need it set any different number of ways -

I'm also thinking that if a car "fires" the tires off the line, then the RPM needs to come down instead of raising the MPH that it comes off the 2 step, AGAIN - this is just my opinion - the 2 step settings are so easy to alter and experiment with there is no harm in trying it all different ways.

ALL information should be weighed before proceeding, this is just common sense - I'm not trying to mislead Brian here, only offer what worked for me - now you have given your info that works for you and he can try that too.

Sorry for any confusion guys.

Angus,

I was right with you when I first started at the track. When I was blowing through my tires I lowed my 2 step rev limit. This caused the car to build less boost and bog. I would then feather out the clutch more, but this resulted in slower 60 foot times.
Then I thought well if I could just hold the power till I had the tires rolling a little faster I might not wash them so bad. So I upped the 2 step limit back up and moved the MPH higher. SUCCESS! 60 feet dropped.
I would like to add that not only did my 60 foot drop, but I felt that since there was already more inertia in the driveline system before I let the car rev all the way out, that there would be less "SHOCK" to the driveline so that I wouldn't damage things.

JR
 
Brian,

Its going to be a trial and error thing. Don't go to the track thinking your first launch is going to be amazing. Based on your tires and set-up your going to have to play with your settings. These guys gave you a great starting point to have your settings. Once there it will be trial and error. I would say you want to build around 2-3 pounds of boost on the line, and then give yourself enough revs to not bog the car as you slip the clutch out. If the tires wash raise the MPH limit. Never raise the MPH limit higher than what the MPH of the car would be at that launch RPM. Meaning.....if you are launching at 4700 RPM and the car in 1st gear goes 18 mph in first gear, then never exceed that mph.

JR
 
ok I understand the idea of slipping the clutch through first gear however I have a carbon/carbon twin disc clutch and there is NO slipping the clutch it is either on or off. so I will try to launch the car at about 6mph as my two step was set at 2mph and I used to launch the car at 4200 rpm. I kept raising the rpm but did not raise the mph(did not even think of it) I raised the rpm eventually to 5400 and that is when I broke the axle. So I will take your advice and start at 4200 again and raise the mph as well as the rpm and see if I can learn. Once I do and post a better 60 foot time I will definitely pass the info to others.:wink:
 
ok I understand the idea of slipping the clutch through first gear however I have a carbon/carbon twin disc clutch and there is NO slipping the clutch it is either on or off. so I will try to launch the car at about 6mph as my two step was set at 2mph and I used to launch the car at 4200 rpm. I kept raising the rpm but did not raise the mph(did not even think of it) I raised the rpm eventually to 5400 and that is when I broke the axle. So I will take your advice and start at 4200 again and raise the mph as well as the rpm and see if I can learn. Once I do and post a better 60 foot time I will definitely pass the info to others.:wink:

just a tip for staging at the track. like i said earlier when i stage i apply the e-brake and "drag" the car forward. what this does is ensure there is a load on the drivetrain. this eliminates any "slop" in the transmission or axles. whenever there is slop in the drivetrain it allows for certain parts to build up momentum before it interfaces with its opposing part and shocks the components.
 
the car builds 10 lbs of boost on the line and I have launched it at 4200-5200 rpm. I use mickey thompson 255/50/16 drag radials on the stock 16 rims at 12 psi. traction is not the problem. When I launched the car at 5200 rpm I broke the axle and anything lower the car bogs. My best 60 foot time has been 1.68 but cant seem to get it to do it again. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Brian
 
the car builds 10 lbs of boost on the line and I have launched it at 4200-5200 rpm. I use mickey thompson 255/50/16 drag radials on the stock 16 rims at 12 psi. traction is not the problem. When I launched the car at 5200 rpm I broke the axle and anything lower the car bogs. My best 60 foot time has been 1.68 but cant seem to get it to do it again. Any help is appreciated. Thanks Brian

In that case. Try raising the rpm to 5400RPM and anti lag to 13lbs. Go from there.
 
Hi guys, is any of this possible on an OBDII car? i have a 96 nsx and i was told by my tuner that since my car has a drive by wire throttle, it was not possible to achieve 2 step with either the AEM EMS or the HKS VPRO. It can only be configured in pre-OBDII cars where throttle control is mechanical. Could you all please shed some light on this and confirm that this is the case.. thanks,

Tom
 
Hi guys, is any of this possible on an OBDII car? i have a 96 nsx and i was told by my tuner that since my car has a drive by wire throttle, it was not possible to achieve 2 step with either the AEM EMS or the HKS VPRO. It can only be configured in pre-OBDII cars where throttle control is mechanical. Could you all please shed some light on this and confirm that this is the case.. thanks,

Tom

I think you can with the VPRO, but Motec would be the best choice in EMS for the obd2 cars IMO.
 
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