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auto to stick conversion?
- Thread starter Inflight
- Start date
In the Honda Tuning magazine for May 2004, there is a yellow widebody Sorcery NSX from Japan that has done this conversion. According to the magazine, the owner had his NSX taken to a place called Revolution that converted his original automatic tranny to a six-speed manual, using a NSX Type R mount and OS Giken gear for the clutch, flywheel and Super Lcok two-way LSD. Here is a link to Revolution's website.
It would be cheaper and easier if you just sell yours and buy the manual one.
i did it to my integra. you will need probably a new tranny mount nt shur if the auto and manual mounts line up. ecu, wiring harness, clutch pedal assembaly, manual brake pedal assembly,flywheel, clutch, clutch lines, clutch resevior tank, axels, shift linkage, knob. problems you might have. wiring for the reverse lights, and you might have to cut where the shifter comes through cause the auto tranny has a cable and there is a metal piece you will PROBABLY have to cut out to get the shift linkage to come through.
to do it on an integra is one thing do mess around with an nsx is another. i would take andy's advice and trade yours in for a manual
to do it on an integra is one thing do mess around with an nsx is another. i would take andy's advice and trade yours in for a manual
Two words: ***** Sell it *****
The only reason to own automatic nsx is if you were handicapped and unable to operate a clutch. I own a stick and have driven an automatic.It is like you were in a slow version of a pretty fast car. Just my 2cents. Goodluck in whatever you decide..Brent
The only reason to own automatic nsx is if you were handicapped and unable to operate a clutch. I own a stick and have driven an automatic.It is like you were in a slow version of a pretty fast car. Just my 2cents. Goodluck in whatever you decide..Brent
To swap over the auto to standard can be done but the conversion will be expensive. If you really like the car then the swap is a good option. My other recommendation to get more power from the engine would be to install our custom MDM Comptech supercharger setup for automatics. WE here at Mechanics Direct Modifiers can perform the swap properly. We Dyno all NSX's in shop after the Mods have been performed. Any questions call Mitch (Mechanics Direct Modifiers) 978-934-9395 "IF you can dream it...we can do it!"
I agree.AndyH said:
I disagree. There are lots of reasons - everything from sharing a car with another driver in the household who doesn't drive stick, to lots of miles spent in stop-and-go traffic, to plain old personal preference. 9 percent of owners want automatics, and that's why Honda makes them for the NSX. I like my five-speed, but I can accept that others might not. Different strokes (and different trannies) for different folks.Texas91Brent said:
nsxtasy said:
One, don't share your car, Two ,the car does not drive the same, you do not get the same performance from an automatic, Three, it's my opinion and I am sticking to it..Four ,people can drive whatever floats their boat....
Something tells me you're not married...Texas91Brent said:
Just because it's an automatic dosn't mean that real performance is not possible.
mitchell smith said:
We have had this discussion for a while and most people with automatics are turned away from the CTSC. The weakest link seemed to be the auto tranny. What is different with your set up? I know Spookyp was looking for a long time and ended up selling the NSX for a P-car.
nsxtasy said:Something tells me you're not married...
I'm married but I don't share my NSX
Married 15years with 3 kids. She has a choice of Infiniti I30t, Chevrolet Avalanche with more tv's and ps2's than I care to admit, or a chevrolet Tahoe. The last time she drove the NSX, she damn near tore off the front airdam. She does not want to drive the car....Don't take life so serious, I am just to get a rise out of the bunch!!!! Brentnsxtasy said:Something tells me you're not married...
I'm not - hence the smiley faces in my posts.Texas91Brent said:
Inflight said:
Well, I actually found someone who has done it and given some pretty good pictures and procedures for getting it done. Here you go (translated from Worldlingo):
The latest car in such a reason is your modification desired customer in MT specification.
And the extent which it is possible speaking completely with MT being identical with AT, Installation of clutch pedal and Because it has been attached on engine compartment side without all problems to the attaching screw hole of the MT car peculiar part, it can do job in complete volt/bolt on feeling.
Pulling out the oil coolants, just it passes through also the ATF pulling out, start of job.
First the AT mission and the engine are separated.
From service hole, the M6 volt/bolt which connects the drive plate and the torque converter is removed.
The AT mission is lowered. Different from MT, being not to be the case that the main shaft is inserted in the clutch
"The mission is pulled out," that rather than saying, the feeling that "you lower". This the work of lowering is easier than MT.
AT which it gets off. The torque converter and because you can lower with one body. The ATF you do very not to become discharging and are cheap. Removing the speed sensor from this mission, it reuses to 5MT.
The drive plate is removed from the engine.
Because the mission oil cooler of water cooling has been attached in AT, it does again to connect chilled water piping. The attachment the blue hose this time.
Installing the fly foil in the engine. The clutch is united. When this happens, it reached the point where it is visible completely in MT.
The MT mission is placed. As for this being to be usual job there is no especially problem. There is compatibility even size completely, with complete volt/bolt on.
When the mission has been recorded. While relationship of the engine harness is AT for the sake of. However the couplers of AT control are left over something. It seems that is not especially problem.
But this time medieval times, it meaning that the good drive shaft enters into the hand, you exchanged. Comes out to the right side of the mission as for the half shaft which the hole of the bracket position. Because it is different at distance from the engine, it differs.
As for this exchange necessity.
This time it is not for Type-R and being to use the standard clutch pedal. Using also the oleo damper the medieval times of the genuine products. Being to be on all car sides it can go the mounting hole and the base with non processing.
The brake & the clutch pedal which are procured in medieval times Master cylinder Assy of clutch.
The clutch master cylinder is installed.
This volt/bolt on.
As for genuine clutch hydraulic piping. Because the body is passing by the inner part rather, when you use genuine with correct attack method, it meaning that job becomes large-scale. We had decided to change with the stain mesh teflon hose. As for this hose being to be something which is used in brake oil pressure. By clutch oil pressure completely there is no problem.
Being visible on the left with the old damper. Installing also the wire of shifting, job of the subordinate work in general end.
The AT select lever is removed.
By the way shift based form differed in AT and MT.
Being not to be able to unite to one for AT the shifter unit of MT. This uses one for MT.
The brake pedal is exchanged. Because we cannot assume, that you do not remove to the steering column, Job becomes large-scale. This extent disassembling, it installs the brake & the clutch pedal.
The pedals and the shifter and the like install, completing
Job of the interior ends.
Traveling with the chassis dynamo. Strange noise of drive type and check of operation are done.
The clean power curve which MT seems is drawn. As for this car because the muffler has changed, The highest output which is higher than the catalog specifications was recorded.
272 ps 30. 7kgm
When it tries repeating this with the graph of the car of MT originally. After all it becomes difference of according to the specifications. Red as for the green is my NA1 with the latest car. To 6000 rpm neighborhoods which are driven with the cam of Row side before the VTEC changing.
Completely, it is the output curve of the same level as the MT car, but difference starting when it exceeds 6000 rpm from to be large drop it did foreward 7000 rpm. In engine of MT specification. Falling to be little is the power curve which is clean to 8000 rpm of limit
Just a thought, why would you want to do an auto-to-manual swap?? Cost wise; youd be much better off just trading in for a 5 speed as previously mentioned.. Besides dont auto's come with 252 horsepower vs a stick's 270 or 290 depending on which year you are lucky enough to snaggle up! So youd need to do alot of motor work to hang with a stock manual car!!
I did an auto to 6MN switch on a 1981 Corvette. Let me tell you from experience. SELL IT AND GET A MANUAL. It was so $$$ and such a pain in the A**. AND THAT WAS ON A NON-ELECTRONIC OLD CORVETTE!!!
1TITENSX :
One mistake that they made was they still retained the automatic ECU. You notice later on in the other article that they have on their website they notice that they wired a switch to simulate the shift select lever in the D & N position. They dyno'd it and it showed that it responded differently with the different positions of the switch. I didnt want to "rig" it that way so i inserted the 5spd computer, and wired in the clutch pedal / neutral switch to the computer, runs much better. Also i have the 8000 rpm redline with the 5spd computer, and i does continue to pull after 7500 with the automatic motor (only difference between the auto and 5swpd motor is the cams)
-Ray
One mistake that they made was they still retained the automatic ECU. You notice later on in the other article that they have on their website they notice that they wired a switch to simulate the shift select lever in the D & N position. They dyno'd it and it showed that it responded differently with the different positions of the switch. I didnt want to "rig" it that way so i inserted the 5spd computer, and wired in the clutch pedal / neutral switch to the computer, runs much better. Also i have the 8000 rpm redline with the 5spd computer, and i does continue to pull after 7500 with the automatic motor (only difference between the auto and 5swpd motor is the cams)
-Ray
Ray,
Thanks for shedding some light on the switch. I agree with caseycarson, it looks like a PITA to do.
On a different note, I am seeing these now
, but I wasn't this morning
Ty
Thanks for shedding some light on the switch. I agree with caseycarson, it looks like a PITA to do.
On a different note, I am seeing these now
Ty
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