• Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.

Back-Up Light Switch Replacement

Joined
25 September 2012
Messages
518
Location
Markham, Ontario, Canada
Hello Everyone,

If both your back-up lights don't work when in reverse gear, you've got 5 possible problems:

1. Blown bulbs.
2. Blown fuse.
3. Gear Selector (Automatic Transmission Only)
4. Bad ground
5. Back-Up Light Switch
__

You can find the relevant pages in the 1991 Service manual beginning at 23-200 (and 13-3 for switch replacement):
attachment.php

Remember to protect your paint! Use a work pad.
attachment.php

__

1. Blown bulbs.
>Well, this one's unlikely if BOTH bulbs do not work.

2. Blown fuse.
> If this is the problem, it's an easy fix. In the driver side footwell, remove the fuse box panel to expose the Number 5 (10 A) fuse:
attachment.php


3. Gear Selector (Automatic Transmission Only)
I've got a 5 speed so I didn't have to trouble shoot this!

4. Bad ground
Hopefully not the problem, but reference the wiring diagrams in the service manual.

5. Back-Up Light Switch

Here are all the tools you'll need:
Car Key
19 mm wrench
Philips screwdriver
10 mm socket (and extensions)
__

> This back-up light switch is located in the engine bay, screwed to the transmission housing.
attachment.php

> It is easiest to access the switch by removing the rubber tubing between the airbox and the throttle body. This is an easy removal (6 Philips head screws hold the airbox on, and two hose clamps hold the rubber tubing to the airbox & throttle body).

>Once the air-intake tube is removed some wiring looms are easily seen, these can be moved aside by removing a 10 mm bolt (trust me this is necessary to get at the switch).
attachment.php


> Next the switch can be removed.
First, unclip the electrical connector (this is a pain, the connector must be removed from the loom connector, and a bracket that keeps the two connectors mounted to the transmission housing).

Next, the switch has a rubber outer shell. This rubber shell must be pushed up to expose the 19 mm hex portion of the switch. Here is a photo showing the exposed 19 mm hex:
attachment.php


Finally, a 19 mm wrench can be used to unscrew the switch from the transmission housing. While the clearance is tight, I'd recommend using a larger wrench, as the switch takes a lot of grunt to remove/tighten!
attachment.php


Upon removal, here's what my switch looked like:
attachment.php

One of the contacts of the switch had completely vaporized. I believe this is due to residual coolant leaking from the coolant hose (located above the switch), slowly chewing up the contact..

I had to have the switch replaced, about a ~$50 part or so.
35600-PR8-003
attachment.php


Remember to use some liquid gasket to the threads (as per service manual) and re-connect the electrical connectors.

I put the transmission in reverse and had the ignition ON. (This way I could see once I've threated the switch in enough). You could also use a multimeter to check for continuity, however, this requires many hands. I only have two.

>Reverse lights!
attachment.php


>Remember to connect the wiring loom back to the transmission housing using the 10 mm bolt previously removed. Also, put the air-intake tube back!

That's it!:biggrin:

Cheers,

Lucas
 

Attachments

  • 13.jpg
    13.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 240
  • ServiceManual.PNG
    ServiceManual.PNG
    39.8 KB · Views: 293
  • 01.jpg
    01.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 242
  • 18.jpg
    18.jpg
    66.5 KB · Views: 240
  • 08.jpg
    08.jpg
    44 KB · Views: 241
  • 16.jpg
    16.jpg
    49.9 KB · Views: 242
  • 25.jpg
    25.jpg
    51.7 KB · Views: 238
  • 04.jpg
    04.jpg
    85.5 KB · Views: 249
  • 05.jpg
    05.jpg
    72 KB · Views: 245
  • 17.jpg
    17.jpg
    39.6 KB · Views: 238
Last edited:
Back
Top