FWIW on my 91 JDM the existing 1156 socket are plugged into the harness by two spade connectors in a T configuration so no need to cut the sockets off - simply terminating the new socket wires with male spades and plugging them into the harness plug works fine.
-
Protip: Profile posts are public! Use Conversations to message other members privately. Everyone can see the content of a profile post.
Best DRL solution - looks OEM - easy under-hood connection, converts turn signals to white DRL / amber turn
- Thread starter centerpunch
- Start date
Thanks I was thinking this too. I don’t want to cut the harness for sure. I was also thinking about finding a connector I could plug into the harness and wire to the new socket.
That would certainly be a great option for folks who don’t want to do the modifications themselves. How do folks contact you? Website, or PM, or…?
You must have been keeping this service a secret though- I searched and only found a 12/2020 post where you said “Coming 2021- Profile Pivot Switchback DRL/Sequential LED turn signal conversions.”
Thoughts from a 20+ year NSX Owner to new NSX Owners (and maybe some not so new)
Welcome to NSX Prime website and let me introduce myself. I am Steve Glover from Monument, CO. At least that is where I "landed" at the end of my 26.5 year Naval career. I have a special affinity for the NSX Prime website. Back in the summer of 2000, I was stationed on USS ENTERPRISE (CVN...
www.nsxprime.com
Not sure how I missed this thread, this is the first DRL turn signal mod that looks OEM! Might actually have to do this one.
@centerpunch Joe has been selling those on Facebook for a while. Prime rules generally prohibit advertising services/products without a vendor subscription so it hasn't been posted much here.
@centerpunch Joe has been selling those on Facebook for a while. Prime rules generally prohibit advertising services/products without a vendor subscription so it hasn't been posted much here.
What size resistor would work?
Yes, but I'm lazy! I have no desire to rip open my dash again and slice my hands up pulling that stupid little relay.
I'd rather just add the resistor inline. I have a whole bunch leftover from my oil temp controller stuff.
There are apparently some 1157 switchback LED bulbs with built-in resistors, that would be the easiest, but I’d worry about all that heat degrading the LEDs or circuitry. Might be fine though.
I’ve modified two flasher relays, but wouldn’t do that again- a huge pain to find it, a huger pain to remove it, and a pain to modify it.
The add-on resistor to eliminate hyperflashing goes in parallel with the new led bulb, so the car sees the same current used by normal incandescent bulbs. They have to be big to dissipate the heat- think about how hot the original bulbs get.
The electrical engineer in me can't stand having resistors sitting around for no reason generating heat lol.
But yes, centerpunch is correct, the resistors needed are going to be a high wattage, low resistance type so the ones you have leftover probably will not work for this. The bright filament of a 1157 is about 27 watts, so for the sake of making math easy lets call battery voltage 13.5, meaning 2 amps (P = V * I). This is roughly 10x the current of most 1157 LED bulbs, so our resistor needs to draw 1.8 amps to mimic a 1157. Pulling 1.8 amps at 13.5 volts means a resistance value of around 7.5 ohms. (V = I * R). There's probably some range where the factory flasher relay is happy so you could start off with something like a 10 ohm, 40+ watt resistor and see if that works. That would pull 1.5 amps combined with the LED and would probably make the flasher relay happy.
That's not the sort of thing I would buy on Amazon for cheap TBH. I'd get something like this and make a custom harness for it: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/AHA50AFB-10R/2169297
But yes, centerpunch is correct, the resistors needed are going to be a high wattage, low resistance type so the ones you have leftover probably will not work for this. The bright filament of a 1157 is about 27 watts, so for the sake of making math easy lets call battery voltage 13.5, meaning 2 amps (P = V * I). This is roughly 10x the current of most 1157 LED bulbs, so our resistor needs to draw 1.8 amps to mimic a 1157. Pulling 1.8 amps at 13.5 volts means a resistance value of around 7.5 ohms. (V = I * R). There's probably some range where the factory flasher relay is happy so you could start off with something like a 10 ohm, 40+ watt resistor and see if that works. That would pull 1.5 amps combined with the LED and would probably make the flasher relay happy.
That's not the sort of thing I would buy on Amazon for cheap TBH. I'd get something like this and make a custom harness for it: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/yageo/AHA50AFB-10R/2169297
Last edited:
The switchback bulbs I referred to have built in resistors that work fine, for a while, perhaps 45 s?. They can't dissipate the heat for too long though, so when they heat up too much, a thermistor disconnects the resistor, causing hyperflash. They work again when it cools down a couple minutes later. They're pretty much OK, because I seldom have my signal on for more than 30 seconds or so.
(For the add-on resistors, you only need about 15 W, because they're only powered about half the time during flashing.)
(For the add-on resistors, you only need about 15 W, because they're only powered about half the time during flashing.)
No “electronic” parts lower tech than resistors, those Amazon resistors will be fine!
Or here’s another source if you’re worried about quality.
www.superbrightleds.com
Or here’s another source if you’re worried about quality.
LED Light Load Resistor Kit - LED Turn Signal Hyper Flash & Warning Fix
6 Ohm, 50 Watt load resistor kit. Solves common LED turn signal problems with hyperflashing and bulb out warning indicators. Connect one across each LED turn signal bulb to simulate filament Tail/Turn signal bulbs. View Installation Diagram & Instructions [PDF]. Mount the resistor away from...
Similar threads
