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Blew my motor yesterday....tuner says AEM wideband 02 sensor flatlined

This has become a lively discussion and extremely informative. I have had to set this aside for the last 2 weeks as I took the earlier advise to heart and just "chilled" on this for a while. I am going to try to get the tune file/data logging from the AEM. Is there a member that can objectively evaluate this tune forensically?
I am trying to make a decision on rebuilding and to what extent and most certainly do not want a repeat of this tragedy.

Thanks again for all the support and advise, genuinely appreciated!

Brian P.

I can take a look at it.
 
RYU I think you were correct when you said it felt like you made a little more power with the water/meth. What actually happens is the water cools the air charge then when the air/fuel ignites since the water can not burn it turns to steam. Since steam has a very large expansion ratio it helps push the piston down with extra force while cleaning your engine at the same time.

I saw a video AEM put out talking about this on their site or YouTube a few months back.
 
Thanks cptnsx, I am trying to get the tune file, it has been challenging to say the least with the tuner.......many excuses.....no protein. I will let you know as soon as I can get my hands on the file.
I truly appreciate your willingness to help!
 
Buying a used motor may also be more cost-effective, once you factor in the cost of labor as well as of any parts you'll need. When my engine needed replacing, I estimated the cost both ways, and found it would cost less to replace my engine with a used one than to rebuild it. (Note, in my case, it was a stock engine.) Don't forget to include all the costs when estimating - the cost of parts or the engine, shipping costs (which can be significant for shipping an engine cross-country), and what you may get back if you sell the block or other parts from your blown engine......

Why would anyone want to procure a used motor in an aftermarket forced induction scenario?

The OEM pistons are cast and mine as well be made from peanut brittle.

I don't see it as being cost effective over the long run. Not at all.... unless he is going back to NA.
 
Hmmmmm interesting, Thanks E-Nough Logic, I will Try to get to the car and bring a laptop. I decided to go the conservative route and flat bedded the car to Acura of Lynwood today. Their top Tech, John Li is going to quarterback the rebuild, tune etc., to a finished turn key (tuned) car. He is one of the top Acura Techs in the nation and the one who installed the S/C and Laminova and has done so many times. It's about a $10k proposition but I will have an Acura Dealer behind the finished product. I will have the opportunity to change piston compression and add a better clutch (thinking the SOS 375). This will likely take about 2-3 months. If any of you have any suggestions on the parts and or build, I will definitely take them into consideration. Prior to the S/C my car was doing 287rwhp N/A as it had cams, larger TB, headers/exhaust, CT air box Injector Dymamics injectors and AEM ECU. I am hoping for a conservative tune at around 375- 400rwhp.
REALLY Appreciate the attention and input this post has generated.
Kind Regards to all,
Brian P.
 
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