DIY: Manual Transmission Removal (5-Speed) (91-96)

[Chris_Lum]

In this video I'll guide you on a step-by-step process to remove the 5-speed manual transmission out of your 1991-1996 Acura/Honda NSX. The 6-speed found in the 97-05 NSXs should be similar, but some steps and torque specs may be different, so if you have a 97-05 NA2, please be aware before you attempt to reference this video. Torque specs for the 5 speed manual transmission are listed throughout the video. There will NOT be an install video, so simply reverse the order of operation found in this removal video. As always, I highly recommend watching this video all the way through before attempting. Transmission work should be done by professionals, use this video as a reference at your own risk.

Special products or tools used in this video:
-Transmission Jack: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom.../800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-60234.html

Tools Required:
-10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm Sockets and wrenches
-Various ratchet extensions
-Heavy Duty Jack Stands
-Hammer/Punch
-Breaker Bars
-Pry Bars

0:00 - Disconnect Battery
0:45 - Drain MTF
1:11 - Air Box
1:37 - Axle Nut
3:53 - Shifter Cable Brace
5:16 - Shifter Cables
8:12 - Chassis Brace
9:22 - Starter
11:57 - Slave Cylinder
13:10 - Clutch Fork
13:36 - Plugs
14:53 - Ground Cable
15:05 - Lower Control Arm
17:10 - Toe Arm
18:19 - Lower Shock Mount
19:11 - Axle Removal
22:39 - Intermediate Shaft
24:27 - Bell Housing Bolts
26:17 - Rear Trans Mount
27:16 - Trans Stiffener
30:44 - Upper Trans Mount
31:09 - Separating the Trans
32:37 - Clutch Inspection Plate
36:12 - Trans is off
36:56 - Summary of Housing Bolts

 

[drew]

Very good.

Some additional points:
The axle nuts DO NOT have to be removed to pull the axles from the transmission.

I don't recommend removal as a 250lb-ft torque wrench and 36mm socket required to tighten the axle nut is quite large and expensive for the average DIY. I will also bag the axle ends to keep them clean, then wire them out of the way, and then continue with the transmission removal.

Instead of an impact wrench: removing the tire, removing the hub cap, reinstalling the tire, lowering the vehicle, and using a socket extension to remove the axle nut also works well, use a jack stand to support the ratchet head.


It is good practice to remove the filler plug BEFORE removing any drain plug. Taking fluid out of anything without the ability to get it back in is a recipe for disaster. It is a really good habit to get into.


Installing the transmission does require precision alignment with the clutch plates and engine block. I will place a wooden 2x4x36 (45x90x900) between the transmission and the floor jack to change the transmission tilt slightly and rock it into position. A length of wood is amazingly helpful. Always strap the transmission to the jack until you have a couple of bolts in place.