Door Hinge Issue

Joined
4 June 2012
Messages
26
Location
Manchester, NH
Hi Guys,
I've had my '95 for over 10 years now and love it (of course). The driver's side door ( and less so on the passenger side) has developed an annoying creaking when opening and closing. In the past, if it started to make noise, a quick shot of WD-40 would take care of it. Now however, no amount of soaking the hinge makes it any better. I don't know if this is a common issue, or if anyone else has experienced this, but if so, what is the fix? Replace the hinges?
 
I can't confirm whether this is common or uncommon issue. The hinges on my 2000 are silent and I have never read another post describing the problem so I am going to speculate that it is uncommon. But, as the cars age things change.

WD40 is sort of useful for penetrating; but, not very useful as a durable lubricant, particularly in high load areas like the pivot on the hinge pin. As a Hale Mary, I might be inclined to try washing the hinge pin area with solvent (brake system cleaner might be an option) to get everything clean, then try applying a low viscosity oil directly to the pin area. Something like the 3 in 1 electric motor oil or perhaps some 0W8 motor oil.

The service manual and the parts diagrams show the hinge as one piece - no separate / separable hinge pin and more importantly no replacement retainer for the hinge pin. However, when I look at my hinges, the pin does appear to have a straight forward C clip retainer that should be removeable. You should be able to confirm this by cleaning off your hinge with solvent and inspecting. The best part of the C clip is if you break it during removal you should be able to source a new one.

With the C clip removed you should be able to extract the hinge pin, clean it and lubricate it with a heavy bodied grease. The obvious way to do this is to remove the doors from the car to allow easy access to the hinge. Honda dedicates a whole 4 steps (about 50 mm of column space) in the service manual to door removal which kind of implies that it might be fairly easy. However, anybody who has ever worked with the doors or even giving close inspection will reveal that this 'ain't going to be no Saturday afternoon party'.

The hinge pins on the top hinges are inverted and have their C clip on the top. As long as you support the weight of the door so it does not droop, with the door fully open I think there is enough space to access the C clip for removal and then force the pin out from the bottom so that it can be cleaned and lubed. The bottom hinge has the C clip on the bottom of the pin and I don't think there is access from below to R&R the C clip. @Honcho or @drew have probably been through this so they may be able to advise on the feasibility of accessing the hinge pins with the door 'in situ'.

Outright replacement of the hinges will require complete removal of the doors because without some kind of magic wrench with 5 flex joints I don't see any way to access the bolts that hold the hinges to the body with the door in place. The service manual does not explicitly address hinge replacement; but, from what is in there it appears the steps are; unbolt the door from the hinges, separate door from car enough to allow access and then unbolt hinges from the body. Replacement of the hinges would be my last resort because new hinges will not be color matched to the body. If you want color matched you will need a local paint shop to do that for you.

I would try really hard with cleaning the hinge and applying a lower viscosity oil of some kind to the hinge pin. All the other options are going to be a lot of work / much more expensive if you don't do it yourself.
 
Last edited:
Awesome information...thanks so much for the reply.

I'll try the brake-clean/low-viscosity oil application and hope for the best. I'm not the least bit excited about trying to take things apart on this car, so extracting the hinge pins or replacing the entire assembly isn't a DIY project for me.
 
As noted, WD40 is NOT a long term lubricant and may have contributed to the problem with the solvents it contains. WD40 was the 40th compound tried out by the USAF to prevent moisture/rusting (Water Displacement 40). It will leach out the actual grease and leave behind a super thin lubricant that lasts a very short time, so WD-40 is a poor choice for lubrication (specifically door hinges...)

Honda has a spray lubricant for door hinges (Ch 4 in the SM). I wonder if it is a silicone or Graphite lubricant, which I've had good success with. They seem to penetrate and last much longer, but I'd agree with @Old Guy that disassembling the hinge and a proper grease is the most thorough path.

20 years ago, I bought a can of "SuperLube" Silicone lubricant that claimed that one spray would lubricate forever, and that stuff was amazing, but when the can ran out, I've never been able to find it again; newer silicone lubricants are nowhere near as good. Probably carcinogenic, but I wish I could find another can of that stuff.
 
Honda has a spray lubricant for door hinges (Ch 4 in the SM). I wonder if it is a silicone or Graphite lubricant, which I've had good success with. They seem to penetrate and last much longer, but I'd agree with @Old Guy that disassembling the hinge and a proper grease is the most thorough path.

20 years ago, I bought a can of "SuperLube" Silicone lubricant that claimed that one spray would lubricate forever, and that stuff was amazing, but when the can ran out, I've never been able to find it again; newer silicone lubricants are nowhere near as good. Probably carcinogenic, but I wish I could find another can of that stuff.

I checked both the 1991 and my 1997 service manuals and the lubrication list just refers to using Muti-purpose Grease on the hinges. Is the reference to a spray lubricant something in the later service manuals? I checked Honda's 1999 and 2018 TSB on recommended materials and there is no reference to a grease for the hinges.

SuperLube is still around; but, very hard to find in Canada. Grainger sells it and if the local outlet does not stock it you can order on line for pick up at the local outlet with no shipping charges. Superlube has a silicone spray which appears to be very much like everybody else's silicone spray. They also have a spray synthetic PTFE lube which appears to be a spray version of the grease that Honcho likes for the window regulators & tracks. It has a volatile carrier which flashes off leaving a heavy lubricant base so may be a better option than the straight silicone lube. With the volatile carrier it might work to penetrate the hinge pin area once you have the hinges clean - mine look pretty grungy.
 
It seems the problem you're describing is a sticky or worn door check. I would put a light coat of grease on the top and bottom of the check slide. It may work but, this parts does wear out over time. It's not hard to replace but first I would take it to a collision repair shop and let them verify the issue. The check or sometimes referred to as a "stay" is used in many vehicles and brands and they should understand the device and determine if it is the issue and if so, either could be lubricated or possibly replaced.
5d42a76753b74fd3b8eaadb3837f6c2a.png
 
It seems the problem you're describing is a sticky or worn door check. I would put a light coat of grease on the top and bottom of the check slide. It may work but, this parts does wear out over time. It's not hard to replace but first I would take it to a collision repair shop and let them verify the issue. The check or sometimes referred to as a "stay" is used in many vehicles and brands and they should understand the device and determine if it is the issue and if so, either could be lubricated or possibly replaced.
5d42a76753b74fd3b8eaadb3837f6c2a.png
That's it! BRILLIANT! I was so fixated thinking the sound was coming from the hinges, that I never even looked at the door check thingy. I applied the light cost of grease to the top and bottom of the check as you suggested, and presto...no more creaking or noise. The door operates totally smoothly.
Thank you Mingus, and thanks to all who responded!
 
Reviving this thread.

Anyone know by chance is the metal frame part from the body that the door check is attached to, a part that can be replaced or is it attached/welded to part of the frame?

For a few years I had a rubbing and squeaking door check after the car was hit and put back together.

After replacing/spray some lubricant in a new door check it was still not solving the problem.

It turned out that it was free play in the door check pin that was some how triggering the door check to make a rubbing sound when opening and closing as well as clicking at the joints. It took me many attempts of taking the pin out and popping it back in to realize that by widening the pin that the rubbing noise is completely gone. There is a very tiny amount of freeplay left.

I noticed however that I have actually now made the hole wider on the metail bracket from pushing the pin back in many times, like boring it out.

If the pin ends up getting more freeplay down the road, I thought maybe either some kind of sleeve or is there a way that the bracket coming out from the fame is a separate part that can be replaced ? I imagine it is not cheap but wanted to see if there was a specific part number for that piece from the body if anyone knows ?
 
The door check assembly is an available part, 72380-SL0-013 (for the left hand side). That gets you a new door check and retainer for the pin; but, the door check pin is a separate part which is # 72341-SL0-003. The US parts systems drawings do not show the required detail to spot that bracket that the door check pin fits into. If you go to Amayama and look at the outer panel drawings, there is part number 04635-SL0-t01ZZ which shows the whole door jamb frame which Honda calls panel frame - outside. There is a bolt in piece in the drawing that looks like it might be the receiver for that pin on the door check; but, to me just looks more like a mounting bracket of some kind. However, that doesn't matter because that piece is only available as part of the panel frame which is unavailable in the US and $1400 + shipping from Amayama. Without going out and looking at my car which is currently in storage (so not an option) I am suspicious that the piece you are looking for is formed as part of the panel frame in which case replacement is not really a viable option.

I would check your door check pin and look for wear because that part is less than $5. If that does not fix the problem then go to your Acura parts department and ask them if they can suss out a part number for that bracket. I suspect not in which case fabricating a small bushing / sleeve to fix the wear is probably the way to go.

 
Thanks,

I was looking at that outer panel image. I already have replaced the pin and door check. I didnt realize that over
Multiple times was gradually widening the hole. Ive widened the pin and for its operating ok. Too bad it wasnt a simple bracket that i could access either behind the inside carpet or at worse if someone had to ever pull the fender out.
 
Last edited:


Write your reply...
Back
Top