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door speaker removal question

Joined
31 July 2001
Messages
5,193
Location
Boston, MA
So I'm reading thre FAQ about this,

step 1. Lower window fully

Is this REALLY necessary? Wanted to go out and do this today but I just had my windows tinted yesterday and I can't roll them down for 3 days
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I've taken the door panel off without lowering the window. Just remember that you can't change the window position once the panel and switch are disconnected. Should not be a problem for the speaker removal.
 
I replaced both my door speakers myself. I did not even remove the door panel. The FAQ tells you to pull the bottom of the panel out 10 inches and then push up to remove. I just wedged some object in there to hold it about 8 to 10 inches out at the bottom and I removed all the screws with a small (stubby) screwdriver (the ones that are about 3 inches tall).
 
the pulling back on the bottom would have worked great if i had had the proper screwdriver. what i didnt realize is that the 5 screws holding on the speaker enclosure, are all along the bottom and the side, there are no screws on the top (i was looking up after pulling back the door panel wondering how i could get to the screws on the top when i couldnt even see them).

i figured i would have a hell time putting the door panel back on, but it really went fairly smoothly. i only have one screw left over!
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. after i figure out how im going to mount the new speakers, ill have to do it all over again, but now that ive done it once, its not a big deal. that was the driver side also, apparently from the faq the passenger side is even easier (less wires).
 
In regard to mounting your new speakers, I used the old speaker box. I have Infinity Perfect 6.5 speakers. Remove the entire speaker and then separate the two halves. Remove the old Bose speaker driver and amplifier and pack them away carefully for sale on EBAY or on the site. Using the back half of the speaker cabinet, trace out the cabinet on 3/4 inch MDF and then cut the speaker hole. Try to center the hole. If you use modular speakers, then position the tweeter close to the woofer and carefully position the crossover on the entire cover. Wire everything together. I used quick connects so I could remove the entire cabinet like the original. You will have to use trial and error to position everything perfectly so that the panel can be replaced. Also, make sure you use stuffing in the cabinet as it is a little small and the stuffing makes the woofer think it is in a larger cabinet.
 
sounds like you used wood and the back half of the original plastic thing combined? did you put wood inside the plastic housing? thats what i was thinking of doing just to give me a spacer and a place to mount the speakers to. i cant quite picture what it is youre describing.
 
Exactly. I used the back plastic housing and a wood front baffle for rigidity. Did not do any internal wood bracing. If you are worried about resonance from the plastic, you could spray the outside of the plastic housing with automotive undercoat.
 
Thats what I did with a set of 6.5" JL audios.. It sounds really nice no rattles.
 

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