MLmotorsport said:
Perhaps one of the flayrods has gone askew, apparently on the treadle?
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Keyless wiring diagram - anyone?
- Thread starter MLmotorsport
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Perhaps one of the flayrods has gone askew, apparently on the treadle?
Hugh said:Perhaps one of the flayrods has gone askew, apparently on the treadle?
When did they go to treadle-by-wire? Wasn't that in '95 when they added the electric p/s to the 5spd's? I totally forgot about that! :biggrin:
(I always gwidu :wink: )
MLmotorsport said:
In the morning or evening?
Hugh said:
what part of "always" don't you understand? :tongue:
MLmotorsport said:
Obviously all of it. My sincere apologies.
Ok I've narrowed it down to the Door Lock Control Module. I'm not getting any signal out of there to the Door Lock Actuators when I press the unlock button (on the remote). However, I am getting signal from the Keyless Module over to the Door Lock Control Module so I assume there's something not making connection in the DLCM itself. (diagram on pg 23-262 or thereabout - don't have the manual w/ me) I suppose a fix is nearly impossible so I'll have to buy a new unit. Hopefully that'll fix the problem.
(and yes, Hugh - I checked all of the flayrods - they're all ok :wink: )
Here's the inside of the DLCM.
(and yes, Hugh - I checked all of the flayrods - they're all ok :wink: )
Here's the inside of the DLCM.
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Do your doors lock and unlock with the door switches? If so, it doesnt sound like the door lock control board is faulty.
Zennsx said:
The door switches do work (both lock and unlock).
I came to my conclusion because the signal seems to be getting to the DLCM from the Keyless Module but nothing is coming out of the DLCM to trigger the actuators. (lock works unlock - nothing)
Any idea's? I'm willing to try about anything. :smile:
Haven't looked up the price of a new DLCM yet.
I have a used module if you'd like to try.
I'm thinking its not wired correctly. Exactly where does the unlock signal wire connect to?
Zennsx said:
I'll have to look at the schematics and module again tomorrow but I believe there's an unlock signal wire going into the (only) connector at the DLCM coming from the Keyless Entry Module. The pin that I have circled in the pic is the outgoing signal to the unlock actuator from the DLCM board.
I don't see any evidence of cut/spliced wires like there was ever any kind of aftermarket system. The harnesses are all intact and everything back there looks oem to me.
More info. Maybe this will help. The wht/yel wire from the Keyless Door Lock Control Unit does lead to the Power Door Lock Control Unit. That signal is going in fine. The unlock signal to the actuators (red/yel wire), is not coming out of that unit.
While using my prod to test the incoming signal from the KDLCU on the PDLCU board itself I accidentally touched the prod between the yel/red and wht/yel (connecting them) and the doors unlocked and the car disarmed. Doing this bypassed the circuits in the PDLCU and a connection was finally made! Does this sound right?
I replicated this quite a few times to make sure it wasn't a fluke. It also worked to lock the doors by this method (connecting the KDLCU input and PDLCU output with the prod). Eventually I blew fuse 35 (under front hood -20a-) so I must've touched something else inadvertantly. (replacing the fuse didn't net me any different results than I was having before - so that wasn't the problem)
While using my prod to test the incoming signal from the KDLCU on the PDLCU board itself I accidentally touched the prod between the yel/red and wht/yel (connecting them) and the doors unlocked and the car disarmed. Doing this bypassed the circuits in the PDLCU and a connection was finally made! Does this sound right?
I replicated this quite a few times to make sure it wasn't a fluke. It also worked to lock the doors by this method (connecting the KDLCU input and PDLCU output with the prod). Eventually I blew fuse 35 (under front hood -20a-) so I must've touched something else inadvertantly. (replacing the fuse didn't net me any different results than I was having before - so that wasn't the problem)
Yes, sounds like the door lcok /unlock module definitely has a problem.
The function of that is to flip the + & - supply to the lock motor so you can't just wire the signal through.
But at least you know that's it so you can either replace or try to repair.
Looking at the pic of the board, I'd be inclined to think one of the discreet electronics components or even one of those relays to be the culprit.
You can check the transistors with an ohm-meter - the diodes or resistors would probably show signs of physical external damage of bad, but could also be the caps - check for physical leaks, replace them if in doubt. Probably most likely transistor or relay - or even possibly a bad solder joint on one of the relay pads (same problem the main relay suffers from)
Just a post-script thought - do you know for sure that you have a good solid ground on the black wire connection?
The function of that is to flip the + & - supply to the lock motor so you can't just wire the signal through.
But at least you know that's it so you can either replace or try to repair.
Looking at the pic of the board, I'd be inclined to think one of the discreet electronics components or even one of those relays to be the culprit.
You can check the transistors with an ohm-meter - the diodes or resistors would probably show signs of physical external damage of bad, but could also be the caps - check for physical leaks, replace them if in doubt. Probably most likely transistor or relay - or even possibly a bad solder joint on one of the relay pads (same problem the main relay suffers from)
Just a post-script thought - do you know for sure that you have a good solid ground on the black wire connection?
D'Ecosse said:
Can I just go Radio Shack and get these things? A new unit will cost me about ~$300 so I might as well try to fix this one. Besides - it's oh so satisfying when I'm working on something totally out of my realm of competence and actually end up fixing it.
or better yet I can send it over to you and let you get the satisfaction if you'd like. :smile:
D'Ecosse said:
No - how/where do I check that?
MLmotorsport said:
Easiest test is just to see if touching a wire that is connected to chassis somewhere to the pin with the black wire (not sure what pin - they're not labelled on my schematic) and see if changes the operation when you operate the remote.
Mike,When you get your vehicle back let me know and I'll send you my lock unit unit to try out. If it works I'll sell it to you. Chris
Zennsx said:
I got it right now - it's the other car that's at the shop - 400 miles from here (everything works on that one... except the engine :frown: ). Between the 2 of them I'd have a fully working automobile. :wink: I'll PM you and we can work something out - much appreciated Chris!
Thank you to Zen for sending his unit over to me to try it out! Unfortunately I got the SAME result with his working Power Door Lock Control Unit plugged in. Is there ANY possibility that this could be a problem with the keyless remote itself?? It came preprogrammed (from Kenwood?) for my car - they took down my Keyless serial # to program it). Maybe there's a security problem not letting the doors unlock? I would assume that because the car disarms (when it should also unlock) the security function is working but I don't know.
I tested the ground and it's good.
Any other suggestions before I button this dang thing up as another unsuccessful attemp at fixing it?
I wouldn't mind going aftermarket if I knew it would truly fix the problem - but at this point I don't know that even an aftermarket would work.
Thanks to you all for the help thus far!
I tested the ground and it's good.
Any other suggestions before I button this dang thing up as another unsuccessful attemp at fixing it?
I wouldn't mind going aftermarket if I knew it would truly fix the problem - but at this point I don't know that even an aftermarket would work.
Thanks to you all for the help thus far!
Did you do the ground test?
D'Ecosse said:
with my old unit, yup. :frown:
It's very hard to get to the ground prong w/out touching any of other prongs (I did it from the inside of the unit - right off of the circuit board) but I'm pretty sure I got it grounded properly and still the same result.
Ok, heres a test for you...
Unplug the security module all together. I am having the same problem on my 92 NSX but with an aftermarket keyless. If I unplug the security unit it locks and unlocks just fine both doors. WHen I plug the security module back in, it works fine for about 10-15 minutes. Then it goes back to not unlocking the doors. I am lost now. Any ideas?
Where else could I create and unlock signal for the doors?
Unplug the security module all together. I am having the same problem on my 92 NSX but with an aftermarket keyless. If I unplug the security unit it locks and unlocks just fine both doors. WHen I plug the security module back in, it works fine for about 10-15 minutes. Then it goes back to not unlocking the doors. I am lost now. Any ideas?
Where else could I create and unlock signal for the doors?
