LED Headlight Install with optional Headlight Adjuster Replacement

[Wild Turkey]

LED Headlight Install +/- New Headlight Adjusters
Boslla Bullet B1 LED bulbs are great! www.boslla.com

When I installed my LED's, I read every thread I could find. After doing it, I made these instructions with pictures

Google doc Instructions:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1SGdHGW-BikpDmP8dobDKRuM1Df2NplarGv8sehrdOac/edit?usp=sharing

I haven't had much luck uploading pictures so I put it in the form of a shared google doc link. I also detailed optional instructions on replacing the headlight adjusters, which are often seized if they're original pre-1997. Hope it helps someone do it more efficiently than I did as something like this would have saved me ++ time.

PM me if you see a gaff so I can fix it. Also, please post your results here, preferably with pics.

On Bossla:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showt...o-OEM-to-Boslla-Bullet-B1?highlight=dust+caps


Related Prime forums on the cap design:
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/216287-Vented-Dust-Caps-for-LED-Headlights
http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/204618-NSX-LED-Headlights?highlight=dust+caps

Related Dust Cap Thingiverse link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5270491/files
Boslla Bullet B1 fits in a 53 mm cap
Boslla B4 series 3 color fits in a 75 mm cap

TT

 

[Superhatch]

Awesome write up. I think it does a good job summing up what the threads cover over a few dozen posts.

 

[Wild Turkey]

Just made an important addition. Be sure the retractor covers are positioned to not rub on the hood. With the attaching screws, the covers can be adjusted up and down as well as fore and aft. On mine, the covers seem to settle a bit too high, looking fine when down, but rubbing the hood when moving, which could eventually damage the paint. Moved them down about 1.5 mm and they're perfect now.

 

[Wild Turkey]

With the caps, I inset a Honda H logo 0.2 mm to help align the caps when installing. If you print layers 2-4 in a contrasting color, not only are they easier to insert, you see the Honda H if you look "back" into the headlight housings (only when the hood is up.) OK, I'm a 3D printing nerd...

 

[Superhatch]

Thats a great idea. I used a paint marker, but that will likely fade before I need to change lights.

 

[Ace3]

On my 91 JDM after removing the bulbs I see a bulb retainer that looks very fixed as per photo - Am I missing something here or is this removable to follow the instructions

 

[Wild Turkey]

Can't see your location in your profile, but that definitely looks different than mine. Did you originally have 9005 & 9006 incandescent bulbs in there? The connectors also don't look like they would go on 9005 or 9006 bulbs - they look like 1/4" female spades? Do you have a picture of the bulb(s) that came out of there?

Looking at the third diagram here:

Head light for Honda NSX 1 generation 09.1990 - 11.2001 - Honda Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama

Head light for Honda NSX 1 generation 09.1990 - 11.2001. Buy OEM spare parts online. Low prices, proven reliability, fast shipping from Japan

www.amayama.com

The diagram shows the female spade lugs on the wiring harness like yours. The incandescent bulbs seem to be H1.

Honda 34901-671-631 (34901671631) BULB, HEADLIGHT (12V 55W H1) (OSRAM/PHILIPS)

Honda 34901-671-631 (34901671631) BULB, HEADLIGHT (12V 55W H1) (OSRAM/PHILIPS). New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

amayama.com

Interestingly, both low and high beams are the same bulb; USDM has different 9006/9005 bulbs.

I presume you'll need the bulb spec for the JDM bulb to get compatible replacements. Something like this?

60W 7200LM H1 LED Headlight Fog Light Bulb 6500K White | Boslla B1 Series, 2 Bulbs

H1 headlight bulb with 60w 7200lm brightness, 6500k white, 200% brighter than stock halogen, 100% plug and play replacements.

www.boslla.com

Hopefully, some other JDM owners can be more helpful than I. I think @Big McLargeHuge put LED's in his JDM?

 

[Ace3]

Looks like you're right - d'oh just assumed that the setup was identical between JDM and USDM for headlights. Have an extra set of 9005/9006 B1s now At least one of the bulbs is H1 as I read off the bulb just now - does look like both are H1.

 

[Wild Turkey]

I wasn't aware of of the difference either.

I've updated the doc to specify 9006/9005 for USDM. Update us when the job's done with your JDM, especially if there are any other modifications for JDM install that you can provide pictures for.

LED's are a huge improvement - can't imagine you having any difficulties unloading those 9005 & 9006 bulbs, but Boslla also has an excellent return policy if you want to go that route.

 

[Big McLargeHuge]

Sorry for coming in too late, but yes the JDM headlight bulbs are H1 style, not 9006... I did the same thing when I first ordered my LED replacement bulbs. I haven't replaced the high beams yet.

I could also probably adjust the headlight beams higher but hadn't gotten around to it . The US doesn't care but I know in other countries (UK) you have to replace the headlight housings with the correct handed versions since a RHD car on a LHD road will throw more light into oncoming traffic than your own lane. The NSX is so low anyways that any modern OEM Honda/Acura or Tesla headlights will blind way more people.

The ones I used on my car are Hikari brand, they do a great job but using these types of cheaper bulbs in the past I usually had to replace them every 1-2 years on my daily driver. The NSX uses its headlights much less so I would expect them to last a few years longer. If you really wanted to ball out you could try the Morimoto 2Stroke bulbs (https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-2-stroke-2stroke-h1-led-bulbs_3?quantity=1), I haven't used them personally but the next time I need a replacement they would be first on the list.

Thanks TT for the dust cap files, with my new 3D printer I might use them make my high beam caps .

 

[Rc224usaf]

With the caps, I inset a Honda H logo 0.2 mm to help align the caps when installing. If you print layers 2-4 in a contrasting color, not only are they easier to insert, you see the Honda H if you look "back" into the headlight housings (only when the hood is up.) OK, I'm a 3D printing nerd...
View attachment 175105

The dust caps I bought were 3D printed, but were very weak and brittle…and cracked essily. Whats your experience with your dust caps?

 

[Wild Turkey]

The dust caps I bought were 3D printed, but were very weak and brittle…and cracked essily. Whats your experience with your dust caps?

Sorry to hear of that. That is one of the issues with 3D printed stuff in that you need to know what you're doing printing them but I'd assume anyone offering them for sale would be an adept printer. I've only received good feedback on the ones I've printed for folks (unvented); I've probably made about a dozen sets for folks, & I think you'd be hard pressed to break them without tools. Mine lasted fine 3 years so far, but just I sold that car so I won't have any more long term data. I am aware that there are some folks that took my design and were printing and selling them.

I know Honcho broke a vented dust cap (They're much thinner) and had to superglue it. Did you get vented or unvented? Note that both VLeds and Boslla recommend UNVENTED caps. I don't know of any LED folks recommending the vented ones. I myself recommend against vented because of the (remote) chance of moisture to get into the housings.

When I was working on the design, I broke some of the tabs off on purpose with a heavy pliers while @latzke and I were waffling on reinforcement options behind the tabs. They're hard to break off and I can't imagine anyone breaking one by accident. The other question is what material was used? I've been using ASA lately, which is technically not quite as strong as PET-G in extension, but seems to have a bit better intra-layer adhesion, which is perhaps more important for the tabs. PLA would crumble of course.

Last question is what bulbs you have. The B1's are 30W, but I've heard of folks using MUCH hotter bulbs, which probably blind oncoming drivers as well. Someone that I made caps for found that they were getting too hot to the touch when he went to some much higher powered bulbs so he wound up returning the crazy high-powered bulbs and going back to the B1's, which are plenty of power IMO.

Hope that helps,