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Long Term Serious Basch Boost Supercharger Problem

Joined
1 May 2004
Messages
41
Location
Durham, NC
Hello Fellow NSX Friends:

I do hope that you remember me, as I was at one time a very active member of the NSX Community, but have fallen into inactivity over the past few years, primarily based on the inactivity of the car itself. I am going to explain how this all came about.

I also want to say that I have always felt it a privilege to be among the NSX Club Members as they are by far the most outgoing, helpful, interesting group of any motorsport organization I have been a part of.

I am not going to try to point fingers regarding the problems I have at this point. I simply want to get them resolved. I have endeavored to get these problems resolved with inquiries various times in the past but this time I am going to see it through to the end no matter what the eventuality is. So, please be aware that if you try to help me with this, I am actually going to use your help. While this question may be wordy, it is going to be posted in the technical forum because the majority of the problem, in fact the whole series of problems are all of technical nature and that is the kind of solution I am seeking now.

Brief prehistory of car:

Bought a 92 NSX in 98 with 33,000 miles on it.

Replaced Clutch a couple times.

Found car to be in snap ring range, although never had the problem, but installed Comptech 6 Speed with 4.55 R&P and power grip clutch. I have had very little problem with this installation and single out as the thing that has made the car a lot more fun. You want the snap ring tranny? It’s in my garage.

I was tracking car perhaps 5 times a year at that point, driving it as a daily driver a lot. Going through a lot of tires, but that was all, and expected.

In 2000, attended NSXPO in Atlanta. Clutch started slipping on morning of Road Atlanta so I gingerly drove it home instead. But my clutch problems are pretty much gone now.

Then in 2002 (I believe July) the trouble starts. The Basch Boost Supercharger becomes available. I decide based on its non intrusive nature compared to others to get one added to the car. I believe in July, Mark Basch makes a trip to the Raleigh-Durham area where he works on maybe 10 NSXs from DC to Atlanta that have driven here to get Superchargers installed or adjusted. This was not the first group installed as many West Coast installations have already been done.

Mark installs the Supercharger on my car. The car dyno’s 360 at the rear wheels. Everything seems to be going pretty good. I’m happy for the time being. But then I find that I have a mysterious problem. The car frequently smells like anti-freeze and I have to keep adding coolant to the new coolant tank (it is changed due to the supercharger). I take it to my Acura dealer and they pressure test the system. They can not find a significant leak anywhere, except a little shows up on the bottom lip of the triangular tank. I find that consistently I can feel some wetness there—I don’t think it is enough to account for this much loss but it is all I can find. If the car sits even after a hard run, none ever reaches the ground. Ever. I bring this to Mark’s attention, but he never does anything to assist in this. No offer of a new or replacement reservoir. So, from that point on I have to add water to the car every 100 miles and if I ever dare track the car, between each run group. The flaggers stop me because it smells like antifreeze but they always let me go back out on track because on inspection it can’t be found anywhere on the car. The car rarely shows any signs of overheating. So, as long as I watch it very carefully in the summer and don’t try to track the car much any more, it’s okay. No foam in the oil or anything that would indicate an internal leak.

This problem has never been rectified. Anyone with any ideas let me know. I think I have checked everything anyone has ever thought of by now but will reconfirm results or check again.

Some time after installation of the Supercharger, an unexpected package arrives at my house. It contains a black box with two screw hole mounts and two sets of wires coming out of it and one little hose. The wires are bundled but loose on the ends. There is no explanation with this device, only a note that says, “Call Mark before installing”. NO REASON IS GIVEN WHY I WOULD WANT TO CHANGE THIS DEVICE EVEN IF I KNEW HOW TO INSTALL IT or where it went. As there are no warnings with it, I assume it is some kind of performance enhancement and let it go. I don’t really care if it would give me another 10 horsepower. Getting in touch with Mark is very difficult anyway.

More than a year later I am at NSXPO in Corning, NY in 2004 and talk to some members about this thing. “Oh, yeah, without that change the car will probably experience detonation and ruin the compression of the engine.” I speak to Mark about it directly a couple times. Again, no explanation is ever given as to why I was not informed of the impact and why there are no installation instructions. We exchange a couple emails and a couple phone calls, but still there are no instructions on how or where to install this thing. Here is where I made a bad assumption: That it must be so damn obvious that it must not need instructions. Also, at NSXPO 2004 I make a copy of the complete Basch Boost Supercharger installation instructions. Well, between the 1200 page NSX Shop manual I have and the Basch Boost Supercharger book I am still uncertain where this thing is. A knowledgeable mechanic friend of mine and I take some guesses and go looking for it, but can’t find it. This is 2005 now and I no longer track the car and am afraid to take it much over 5000 RPM for fear of detonation. So the car which I loved to drive and was going to be one of those 100K+ NSXs easily hasn’t had 10,000 miles put on it in the last 3 years. It sits dormant in the winters, which are mild in NC. I finally got it out again this month and this time promised myself to take this to completion this spring and summer.

Oh, detonation? Apparently the Basch Boost Supercharger destroyed several engines and Mark worked to make some reparations, but the only way to tell if this happened is a compression check and I don’t have any way to get the damn thing off to get that done. I did have one mysterious incident on track after installation but before the new box was sent out having to do with a sudden oil loss on track and loss of power, but then being towed to the pits, checking the oil level and finding it not much below normal and the car running fine (I drove it home 60 miles that day). It only happened that once.

So, this week I took the car, the book, the box, to my local Acura dealer who has been servicing the car for 8 years. They did the transmission swap, etc. My question was simple to them, “what is this damn box thing and can you replace it for the one currently installed; there has to be one on the car that looks like it.” They found something that they thought was it in the trunk on the wall between the trunk and the engine on the driver side. However, the wires coming out of it don’t correspond with the number of wires on what appears to be the original one installed with the Basch Boost Supercharger. Maybe that isn’t the thing at all. They are a really good dealership. They won’t screw with anything they are not sure that they know how to do. So, it is here on my couch. The car is still in its original supercharged state, me worrying about detonation, dealing with the water leak and afraid to have any more fun in the car.

I have been looking at all the NSX Prime forum stuff today and find all kinds of issues and problems with fuel mappings and things. It looks like this Basch Boost Supercharger was a very bad idea for me and that it may or may not still be in existence, and Basch Acura has changed to Basch Accurate and moved if they are still around at all. If the latter problems mean that it won’t give you as much boost as originally predicted, I can live with that. I just don’t want to blow the engine up and be able to have fun driving again.

So, I have significant technical questions here:

CAN ANYBODY help me to figure out where this box goes and how to connect it?? Then I may move to question two:

What would any of you do about this water loss problem??

And finally if we can’t get this thing worked out,

IS THERE ANY WAY TO GET THIS CAR BACK TO STOCK?? I still have the original parts that were changed…and would be gladly willing to buy replacements for anything that has gone bad (like the original plastic water jug—that worked just fine). My Acura dealer and the mechanic there who I have a lot of trust in won’t do it. It is not a matter of policy, but he won’t get into anything he has doubts about, and I very much appreciate that. WHAT HAS TO BE DONE?? WHO CAN I GET TO DO IT?

Without putting a dollar amount on anything, a normally aspirated NSX that you can drive anywhere and have fun with any time is worth MUCH MORE than a supercharged NSX that you are afraid to do anything with.

I know that everyone’s time is valuable, and I promise I will follow up on this with anyone willing to give advice. CHEN MOTORSPORTS GANG: There is nothing I would like more than to see you at Roebling Road this year, VIR and NSXPO—Wei Chen, you may no how to direct my problem, Mark in Atlanta, if you think this can be worked out there, I’ll come to Atlanta. Scott in Tampa? Refer me to someone. You would have been seeing me in the past couple years if it weren’t for this. Gang around DC? I can come there too. If anyone knows ANYBODY in NC, let me know.

Mark Bastanza, maybe you can help or find the person I need to talk to.

People someone reading this I don’t know in person yet, I find you very valuable as well. The NSX Ownership group is exceptional, and that is part of something that I can’t take part in with an NSX in the garage either.

Mark Basch? If you are out there, please contact me with a concrete answer. Diagrams. Schematics, explanations.

I am not worrying about disclosing this problem on the lists, because I would never sell this car to anyone without full disclosure.

HELP!

I am going to post this to the NSX Technical Group, Supercharger group and on the Forum and the NSX Tech list. I apologize if this cross posting is unusual, but I have been out of touch for so long, I am not sure where the most effective post will go.

I want to say thanks to everyone and that I do miss you guys.

Bill Harpe
92 NSX
Basch Boost Supercharger
Comptech 6 Speed with 4.55 R&P
Dali Racing Sways (never had a problem).
Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill, NC
 
Water:
I know diddly about these problems but I know that in industry they test reservoirs by plugging the holes up and pumping some pressurised air in there (reservoir dismounted from the car) with a gauge. Then they see if the reservoir can hold the pressure. If not, one of the welds is not sealed. Maybe your reservoir has a pin hole leak that only opens under higher pressure or something.

Oil:
My turboed Cosworth has a really big heavy duty crankcase oil breather/recycler system because at boost (ok, it’s higher than yours, but anyway) there is something called “blowby”. Bigtime.
That’s when the pressure blows by the piston rings and into the crankcase. Then the crankcase becomes pressurised and some oil gets blown out the breather.
Some cars work fine with blowby, some Cosworth engines with blowby are stronger than other identical Cosworth engines with less blowby. It’s not a problem, specifically.
I don’t think your boost is enough to get blowby, but maybe it happened just that once. I don’t know about that. But this might explain the oil that time.

Sorry this info is very limited.
Peter
 
Last edited:
I have an easy solution for you. Buy the AEM and dump the SSBOX. You are OBD1, so you are looking at maybe 1200-1300 for the AEM and another 6-800 for tuning. Your car will run FANTASTIC and probably gain another 20-30HP SAFELY.

Just make sure you bring it to someone that knows what they are doing. There is nothing wrong with the BBSC setup, but the SSBOX has caused some people some issues. For some it has been flawless.

IF I were you, I would order the AEM tonight.
 
NetViper:

Thank you for your input, and your recommendation is not out of the question, but the bottom line is that I don't necessarily have anyone who I can feel confident in doing this. If you have advice please, let me know.

BHarpe.
 
Try and find a shop around there that can do it. I am not sure how close you are to charleston, SC, but there is someone who is supposed to be very good there.

First thing you need to do though is a compression test and leakdown on your motor to make sure it is sound.

If that is fine, then get the AEM and enjoy your car. Mine hauls ass. (mind you, I have spent an assload fixing it).
 
Thanks for your recommendation, Charleston is about 300 miles from here, but I need to know who is there and where they are before planning a trip.

BHarpe.
 
bharpensx said:
Thanks for your recommendation, Charleston is about 300 miles from here, but I need to know who is there and where they are before planning a trip.

BHarpe.

GSC performance is the shop. I have not personally used them, but they claim to be good. You coudl use my shop, but I am in Savannah, GA.

There is probably something closer for you. Search around. I promise you will enjoy the setup when you have the proper tuning done. I am actually shocked your motor didn't blow up a long time ago.
 
Thanks for the info. I am not averse to coming to Savannah, it is about the same distance as ATL or DC. I love Roebling Road. Did the engine blow up? I don't know. It still performs on the street. Do you have a shop and qualified personnel to check it and perhaps remove it if not install the control module you recommend?

BHarpe.
 
bharpensx said:
Thanks for the info. I am not averse to coming to Savannah, it is about the same distance as ATL or DC. I love Roebling Road. Did the engine blow up? I don't know. It still performs on the street. Do you have a shop and qualified personnel to check it and perhaps remove it if not install the control module you recommend?

BHarpe.

My shop could do it. There are some great shops in atlanta that could do it also. I would probably take it there honestly. Once you try a BBSC with AEM, you won't want to take it off. I promise.
 
Okay, well who in Atlanta should I be looking for, and how much will the other control unit cost? And I certainly don't mean to be insulting or anything here, but how do I know that this will really make my car reliable again?

BHarpe.
 
bharpensx said:
Okay, well who in Atlanta should I be looking for, and how much will the other control unit cost? And I certainly don't mean to be insulting or anything here, but how do I know that this will really make my car reliable again?

BHarpe.

Well, my car was not running worth crap with the SSBOX. I had blown a head gasket, the car made no power, it was totally unrealible, backfired, etc. etc.

Then I got the AEM and everthing pretty much worked. I still have a few glitches here and there, but that is because I am OBD2. You will not have that problem. Do some research and searches on prime for AEM and make your own choice.
 
i agree with viper. I use the ssbox, but am local to mark, so tuning was never a problem. I in fact would go to AEM, but my ssbox works so well, i'd hate to spend the $$ to fix a non-problem.

I also believe that the issue with the SSboxes was not 100% across the board.. meaning, you *may* have one of the good boxes. Of course, i might be mistaken, which is probably why the other box was sent from MB.

I don't think it's tough at all to go back to stock. any mechanic with nsx knowledge should be able to do it. I'd try to get the AEM going first...

as for the antifreeze. I've had issues on non nsx vehicles. very very small leaks, landing where it's hot due to the wind under the hood, causing the stanky antifreeze smell. small, pain in the ass leaks to find...you might also want to change to an 18lb cap ( i think 15 or 16lb is stock). you can buy it for $10 at any autozone. mine leaked for a while..changed it to another 16lb new cap, no luck.. changed to another new 18lb cap and no more leaks...

mark is still in business, and yes at a different locale.
 
He still doesnt know what the box is. Is it the SSBox? Is the one that he has on his couch possibly a replacement for one already installed, or is he running without a box right now?

Part of his concern is that he has no understanding about what this box does, aside from believing that it is important to hold his car together in some way. This is probably the easiest of his issues to address.
 
SPA_S2000 said:
He still doesnt know what the box is. Is it the SSBox? Is the one that he has on his couch possibly a replacement for one already installed, or is he running without a box right now?

Part of his concern is that he has no understanding about what this box does, aside from believing that it is important to hold his car together in some way. This is probably the easiest of his issues to address.


The little black box (the one in his trunk) "SSBOX" is the box added as a piggy-back control module for the OEM ECU. The early boxes were the questionable boxes and were to be replaced with a later generation box sent out by Mark Basch (the one on his couch). If I rememeber correctly the new boxes when installed were moved from the trunk to the interior cabin by the OEM ECU because of grounding or RF interfierence. Anyway do a search for SSBOX and most if not all of the info needed will be found.

As others have said the AEM is a good option for you, and when tuned properly will make the car safe again. I think you may have a head gasket issue based on the info provided about coolant, have the dealer do the leak down test on the motor you will know for sure. Fix the coolant leak first, then go for the AEM, untill you have done both stay out of boost.

Dave
 
SPA_S2000 said:
He still doesn't know what the box is. Is it the SSBox? Is the one that he has on his couch possibly a replacement for one already installed, or is he running without a box right now?

Part of his concern is that he has no understanding about what this box does, aside from believing that it is important to hold his car together in some way. This is probably the easiest of his issues to address.

He must have the original box as it was mounted in the trunk where he describes it being now. I can't believe any competent NSX mechanic can't spot it and make a swap. I would contact Mark Basch first as there was a wire change and one extra wire on the replacement box. As I understand it, leaving the old box in place could be hazardous to your engine. BTW, I was one of the original 50 installs after "testing" and I run at least 12 track events per year. Does it run well on the track? Hell yes! Does it run as good as stock on the street? Hell no. BTW, I have a 99 OBDII car.
Oh, one other thing. I had an intermittent starting problem for 2 1/2 years after the install. A fix was discovered last fall and posted on prime. Do a search and make this $10 modification.
 
bharpensx said:
They found something that they thought was it in the trunk on the wall between the trunk and the engine on the driver side. However, the wires coming out of it don’t correspond with the number of wires on what appears to be the original one
The second generation SSBox's had an extra wire. This thread might help if you choose to use the newer SSBB:http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24200
 
Sorry to hear about your problems with your car, I have been there done that x2. :frown:

I WOULD START TO LOOK FOR A USED ENGINE ASAP!

By the time you pay all these people to figure out whats wrong with it, and then pay then to rebuild it, it will cost you more than 8k.
Find a cheap used 3.0 engine and just swap it in, you will be up and running in no time. I WISH I had gone that route.
Your engine will NEVER be the same as stock, if you rebuild it you will have to bore it out or re sleeve it. That presents a ton of other problems like the pistons are bigger, there for you have more or less compression than a stock
motor has.
Now you might need a after market fuel system to account for that fact, it will never stop.
Don't let all these hp freaks talk you into throwing tons of money at it, just spend 4 to 6k on a used engine and 1.5k to install it then sell your old one for 2k and your still ahead in the long run.


Good luck
 
prova4re said:
I WOULD START TO LOOK FOR A USED ENGINE ASAP!

That is not a bad option, but it makes more sense to do a compression test and leak down BEFORE you go and buy a used motor.

IF infact your motor is toast, then you can decide. I think getting a used motor is probably a better idea than rebuilding the motor. That being said, I have yet to see one for 4K.
 
One just sold with a auto trans for 3800 on e bay not too long ago.
I think most can read between the lines and see that his engine is in trouble, if not all ready toast.......I for got............ THAT WAS MINE THAT GOT TOASTED! :mad:
 
prova4re said:
One just sold with a auto trans for 3800 on e bay not too long ago.
I think most can read between the lines and see that his engine is in trouble, if not all ready toast.......I for got............ THAT WAS MINE THAT GOT TOASTED! :mad:

I feel your pain. But I can't feel too bad for you with a FORD GT on the way. :biggrin:
 
prova4re said:
One just sold with a auto trans for 3800 on e bay not too long ago.
I think most can read between the lines and see that his engine is in trouble, if not all ready toast.......I for got............ THAT WAS MINE THAT GOT TOASTED! :mad:

what makes you think his is toast? He never mentioned anything relating to driveability...just that he is afraid to take it above 5000...unless i misread his post..

he does have the mysterious coolant leak. If it's a headgasket, that's hardly on par with an engine that's toast...and he has stated he always feels a wetness below his aluminum resovoir... which means it's probably leaking form a small crack (i think).

Get the AEM, or install that mystery box. who knows. maybe it ads 100 more HP and 30 more MPG!
 
peiserg said:
If it's a headgasket, that's hardly on par with an engine that's toast...

Which is true, but it is a good $3000 or more repair. (4K for me). Buying a used motor and going back to stock might be a better option.

It all depends on what Bill wants to do. Plus he can sell the BBSC.
 
peiserg said:
what makes you think his is toast? He never mentioned anything relating to driveability...just that he is afraid to take it above 5000...unless i misread his post..

he does have the mysterious coolant leak. If it's a headgasket, that's hardly on par with an engine that's toast...and he has stated he always feels a wetness below his aluminum resovoir... which means it's probably leaking form a small crack (i think).

Get the AEM, or install that mystery box. who knows. maybe it ads 100 more HP and 30 more MPG!

Like I said read between the lines, do you know of ANY first gen SS boxs that have NOT blown up? I know of 20+ that have.

Bill, most people here are going to be PC about this subject and not tell you what they really feal.
I did meet you in NY, I hope your car is fine.
 
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