McDork,
So when do we get some Engine Bay shots? Congratulations on the work so far!
J.
Thanks Sir! I should be able to get a few pictures soon.
Thanks to the knowledge, assistance, patience, and generosity of Kaz I was able to my ABS upgrade woes resolved. I cartainly owe him a debt of gratitude.
Little did I know how completely un-ituitive the wiring is on the KSP upgrade harness. The directions were in Japanese and instead of getting them translated; somehow I misplaced them or threw them out. So, I'm nominating myself for the what not to do award on this one. However, I thought a few of the following items may help someone else out in the future.
There are two pieces to the wiring puzzle:
1. Providing power and ground to the new ABS pump.
There are two pairs of black wires terminated with a ring connector on the KSP upgrade harness.
The shorter set, by the new black/oragne ABS connector is the ground set, which may need to be extended for LHD models.
The longer set goes to the fused side of the 40amp ABS fuse, in the pentagon shaped fuse box, in the front compartment.
Instead of running the pair from the harness into the pentagon shaped box I hooked them into the un-used old orange connector that was used to power the old ABS pump motor.
In order to provide power to the positive side of this connector you have to remove the ABS relay from the pentagon box and short the two lower female terminals. These are the same that are jumpered to power the old ABS pump when flushing the old style system. The old pump power wire is still fused with the 40amp ABS fuse in the pentagon shaped box and I though it looked cleaner / more oem than the other way.
2. Configuration of the ABS warning light circuit. (behind glove box connections)
Configuring the ABS warning light circuit for a 1998 is not intuitive at all. Wiring the ABS warning circuit is different depending on the year NSX you are upgrading.
*****THIS SHOULD BE VERIFIED PRIOR TO INSTALLATION******* :smile:
This info pertains to my 1998 and I'm not sure what other years.
For my particular application the grey relay provided is removed entirely.
You can also disconnect and remove the Red, Black, Green, and White/Blue wires going to it from the clear barrel connectors.
The Green wire from the white 20pin connector then gets connected to the White/Blue 18pin WHT/BLU and that's it.
So, I have a few other loose ends to button up and then I should be ready to get it aligned.