Need help with electrical issues please!!

butter78

butter78

Experienced Member
Joined
26 April 2011
Messages
1,679
Location
Toronto suburbs
Hey guys,

I put the battery back in on Sunday and the car started like a charm. However shortly there after I noticed some irregularities. The after market deck (double din touch screen) would pop before it came on. After letting the car run for a while I went for a quick boot around the block but I noticed something else when I returned and parked. The deck popped again and when the key was turned to the auxiliary position all power went off. I thought maybe the battery connection had come loose but that wasn't the case however the power returned shortly thereafter. Tried starting the car and it was fine. Then today after work went to start her up again and she started with no issue. But when I shut it off there was a loud popping noise from the deck and the power went dead again. Haven't checked but I waited about 10min to see if the power returned but no luck. Before I call tow the car to the shop I was wondering if anyone had any insight. Is this an alternator issue or maybe some sort of fuse related problem? I double checked the battery connection and seemed securely fastened. I'm hoping the power miraculously returns so that I can start the car and drive it to the shop to avoid tow charges. Thanks!!
 
Did you do a load test on the battery? Was the battery trickled charged over the winter months? How old is the battery, & what type of stereo deck do you have? Where is your battery gauge reading while all of this is happening? Based on what you stated, 'm going to lean on bad cell in the battery or even bad main relay or the beginning of it going bad?
 
I would check the battery too, however I would suspect it has something to do with the wiring of the aftermarket deck in the car...most time its the after market stuff that cause problems.

Bram
 
This is bad wiring on your stereo. Has nothing to do with the car. Your system is losing power and coming back on and therefore you are getting the pop. What makes you think it's the car?? I've seen nothing to indicate an engine, battery or alternator problem from your description.
 
Last edited:
Without being able to watch the video (at work), sounds like a bad ground to me on the radio...
 
Video doesn't open for me.
 
Bram said:
I would check the battery too, however I would suspect it has something to do with the wiring of the aftermarket deck in the car...most time its the after market stuff that cause problems.

Bram
Click to expand...

Nah old Wives tales... if it was installed correctly by someone who understands the fundamentals of +12 volts there should be no issues.

butter78 said:
Thanks for all the input guys. Here what's happening when I tried early this morning:

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...s387/seanbala/20130319_083522_zps6d725e6b.mp4
Click to expand...

I just watched the video I noticed you have no dash lights at all... I also noticed you have an '02+.

Few things to check based on your video:

1.) Check that the Battery Voltage is above 12.6v, and that it passes a load test and supply enough amps. I believe the '00+ cars the ECU must see a minumum 10.5V to attempt to crank and battery voltage needs to stay above 9.6V and must be able to supply 300Amps for 15seconds. If you can't do this yourself pull the Battery out of the car, really easy anyway take it to Canadian Tire, or Partsource, or Interstate Battery etc all these places can perform the test properly by recharging the battery to full and performing the test and for free.

2.) Isolate the radio from the car by pulling the 10A fuse, or disconnect the deck harness from the car's harness. I doubt this is your problem anyway, if the desk shorted out it would have blown the fuse already.

3.) Make sure the battery terminals are correctly connected + Red to Red and - Blk to blk (I know stupid question but I've seen it happen) Check the Main fuse its a 120A might have blown?
 
Last edited:
NSXCessive said:
Nah old Wives tales... if it was installed correctly by someone who understands the fundamentals of +12 volts there should be no issues.



I just watched the video I noticed you have no dash lights at all... I also noticed you have an '02+.

Few things to check based on your video:

1.) Check that the Battery Voltage is above 12.6v, and that it passes a load test and supply enough amps. I believe the '00+ cars the ECU must see a minumum 10.5V to attempt to crank and battery voltage needs to stay above 9.6V and must be able to supply 300Amps for 15seconds. If you can't do this yourself pull the Battery out of the car, really easy anyway take it to Canadian Tire, or Partsource, or Interstate Battery etc all these places can perform the test properly by recharging the battery to full and performing the test and for free.

2.) Isolate the radio from the car by pulling the 10A fuse, or disconnect the deck harness from the car's harness. I doubt this is your problem anyway, if the desk shorted out it would have blown the fuse already.

3.) Make sure the battery terminals are correctly connected + Red to Red and - Blk to blk (I know stupid question but I've seen it happen) Check the Main fuse its a 120A might have blown?
Click to expand...

Thanks bud!! I' ll run through those recommendations. I appreciate it!
 
butter78 said:
One more thing guys if you listen to the video there's that rapid clicking noise.... Could that be the starter?
Click to expand...

Sounds like various relays trying to energize maybe the main relay. You still had no dash lights at all and no attempt to crank, I still leaning on a battery issue so definitely pull the battery and get it tested and report back.

You didn't answer my question from before... did you keep the battery trickle charged while it was disconnected over the last few months, and is that the original Honda OEM battery from when the car was new?
 
Last edited:
TURBO2GO said:
That's not the starter, the starter only engages when you turn the key all the way to start the car (momentary position). You didn't do that at all in your video. What happens when you try to start the car? Can you video that and what the radio is doing? How are your lights? Are they nice and bright? Are the electrical items working ok with the engine running?
Click to expand...

Radio pops when it turns on. There is a slight delay.. Seconds really but that shouldn't happen. Light are bright once the car starts but pops when I turn to auxiliary then 0 power anywhere. I'm thinking battery or deck. Deck did this delayed start last year too come to think of it but never had issues with power going off. Also have aftermarket alarm (viper) installed.
 
You are confusing me a bit. Do you have any issues with the car other than the stereo and your popping noise.
 
Last edited:
TURBO2GO said:
You are confusing me a bit. Do you have any issues with the car other than the stereo and your popping noise.
Click to expand...

Power cutting out completely and not coming back for a while shortly after turning the key from "on" to "auxiliary" position.... Other than that nothing else. Gonna go video what you told me to once I get home tonight. I'll post that shortly.
 
Last edited:
It almost sounds like a bad ignition switch to be honest. Yeah more videos will help.
 
butter78 said:
Radio pops when it turns on. There is a slight delay.. Seconds really but that shouldn't happen. Light are bright once the car starts but pops when I turn to auxiliary then 0 power anywhere. I'm thinking battery or deck. Deck did this delayed start last year too come to think of it but never had issues with power going off. Also have aftermarket alarm (viper) installed.
Click to expand...

I'm a little confused now as well.. so the battery has passed the above test I mentioned? You also mentioned Viper alarm, did they connect the starter kill? If so you could have an issue there with the immobilizer/starter kill circuit, but usually that will flash the transponder security light when attempting to start the car in the crack position, and you would have dash lights on during the whole ordeal. Popping noise from the Pioneer deck could be that the amplifier circuit isn't getting the required amps to stay on. Remember once the motor is started the alternator will run the show at proper 12.6+ volts (14~15V on cold start for a few mins) and the required amps to power the car.

Based on what Turbo2go said a bad Ignition Switch problem usually arises as.. when attempthing to start do the dash lights go out when the car dies? If you wiggle the key in the ignition do the dash lights flicker?

Usually 3 of the main issues common to the NSX are:
Main Relay
Ignition Switch
Fuel Pump Resistor

You need to try to avoid the shot gun approach to troubleshooting your issue.... focus on the main one and work your way from that! I think you need to take a step back and look at the battery first and work your way from there report back if the battery passes the load test I mentioned before. Improper voltage/amperage would cause many of the problems you listed thus far.

Just my 2 Cents...
 
Last edited:
NSXCessive said:
I'm a little confused now as well.. so the battery has passed the above test I mentioned? You also mentioned Viper alarm, did they connect the starter kill? If so you could have an issue there with the immobilizer/starter kill circuit, but usually that will flash the transponder security light when attempting to start the car in the crack position, and you would have dash lights on during the whole ordeal. Popping noise from the Pioneer deck could be that the amplifier circuit isn't getting the required amps to stay on. Remember once the motor is started the alternator will run the show at proper 12.6+ volts (14~15V on cold start for a few mins) and the required amps to power the car.

Based on what Turbo2go said a bad Ignition Switch problem usually arises as.. when attempthing to start do the dash lights go out when the car dies? If you wiggle the key in the ignition do the dash lights flicker?

Usually 3 of the main issues common to the NSX are:
Main Relay
Ignition Switch
Fuel Pump Resistor

You need to try to avoid the shot gun approach to troubleshooting your issue.... focus on the main one and work your way from that! I think you need to take a step back and look at the battery first and work your way from there report back if the battery passes the load test I mentioned before. Improper voltage/amperage would cause many of the problems you listed thus far.

Just my 2 Cents...
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I appreciate all the insight you and Turbo have offered. Hopefully I get home at a decent time tonight and get a chance to look into it properly. By the time I finished up at work/gym and got home it was almost 10pm last night and I was exhausted. Hence why no constructive update since 2 nights ago.
 
NSXCessive said:
Sounds like various relays trying to energize maybe the main relay. You still had no dash lights at all and no attempt to crank, I still leaning on a battery issue so definitely pull the battery and get it tested and report back.

You didn't answer my question from before... did you keep the battery trickle charged while it was disconnected over the last few months, and is that the original Honda OEM battery from when the car was new?
Click to expand...

Sorry I should have answered this first. The battery was taken out but I completely forgot to plug it into the charger. Last Wednesday I brought the thing to part source as they offered to plug and charge it for me for free since I bought a bunch of crap for my truck fleet for my business. Picked up the battery on Saturday and installed it on Sunday... Lost the report though or I would post a pic of it here.
 
Isn't this car an 05? I have a hard time thinking anything OEM has gone bad. I would tend to suspect aftermarket electronics. A video with an explanation would help. We are guessing without even fully knowing the symptoms.
 
At the same time it's 2013 making this car at least 10 years old. Some stuff can go bad.. But as a result of aftermarket additions. Man I'm hoping it is a battery issue but I think even if it is something else the cost to fix shouldn't be too bad.... Hopefully
 

Similar threads

W
Need help with driver door lock
Replies
5
Views
149
WeakestLink
W
nfaiz
Car won’t crank, beeping when put on run. 95’ NSX-T
Replies
5
Views
271
docjohn
docjohn
Kaz-kzukNA1
GROM BT3 - potential issue - with European spec OEM Head Unit only
Replies
2
Views
194
Kaz-kzukNA1
Kaz-kzukNA1
SENNA_GOAT
I need help with a possible new clutch!
Replies
14
Views
405
TANTO
TANTO
Heineken
EU Radio Head Unit (EUDM 1991) - Repair
Replies
17
Views
868
bsansx
B
Back
Top