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Need some info on buying a 91-95 NSX

Joined
15 February 2002
Messages
5
Location
Fresno
Hi guys,

I previously posted as 'Stevepb' about Boxster vs NSX. You guys really made me understand the Boxster isn't even a choice when there are so many nice NSX's out there.

I'm about 9 months off so that leaves me plenty of time to sort out my questions.

Obviously, I would like a private owner car, but if I find the 'right' one on a dealer lot is it possible to know if the snapring problem on earlier cars has been dealt with? Could I go to a dealer to look up the vin for a service history?

I'm sure i'll come up with more questions!

Steve
 
Todd,

Are you sure? I thought that an Acura dealer could run a service history but only of services performed by that dealership, not by other dealers. And that the one exception to that was with actual recalls, which the snap ring TSB never was. Am I mistaken?
 
Would you guys stay clear of a dealer car, or is the NSX good enough that a clean carfax dealercar would be just fine?

PS, i'm really curious about the snapring thing now, anyone know for sure?

Would any 1993 > be out of snapring range?

One more question while its on my mind..

Is the gearing/final drive the same on all 3 litre NSx's? When I do a performance statistic search, I find that the 93's and up 3 litres outperform the 91-92's in 0-60 and 1/4.

Thanks once again!

Steve
 
Would you guys stay clear of a dealer car, or is the NSX good enough that a clean carfax dealercar would be just fine?

I would be willing to buy a dealer car. However, just like buying any other used NSX, I would want it to be carefully examined - and by someone other than the service department of the selling dealer.

Would any 1993 > be out of snapring range?

Apparently, yes. The Technical Service Bulletin (number 93-010) says that 1991-92 models are affected.

Is the gearing/final drive the same on all 3 litre NSx's?

Assuming you're only asking about the North America spec NSX's with five-speeds, not automatics: The final drive on all 3.0L NSX's is the same. The gearing is the same with one exception; second gear on the '95-96 NSX is slightly shorter (the gear ratio is a higher number) than on the '91-94. You can see the numerical gear ratios in the FAQ section on "Gear Ratios", here.

When I do a performance statistic search, I find that the 93's and up 3 litres outperform the 91-92's in 0-60 and 1/4.

I'm not sure why you say that. Some of the fastest times (for the 3.0-liter cars) have been recorded by the original '91's:

Sports Car International 12/90: 5.03 / 13.47
Car and Driver 9/90: 5.2 / 13.8
Motor Trend 12/90: 5.4 / 13.7

These are generally faster than the '95-96, which is heavier because of the reinforcements of the NSX-T.
 
Wow,
Thanks nsxtasy, for all the good info.Yes I was talking a N-American manual car. I guess my 0-60 times were from less reputable sources than the ones you mentioned.

As far as getting the car checked out...yes it'll be done at an independant dealer. Is that common practice to allow a vehicle off lot for an inspection?

Steve
 
Is that common practice to allow a vehicle off lot for an inspection?

Yes.

Furthermore, sometimes a dealer will permit a serious buyer to take a vehicle home for a day or two, to try to clinch the sale.
 
Steve,
The next time I upgrade from my '92 i'm going though an Acura dealer,hoping to get some kind of warranty.The previous private owner did not disclose the things that needed to be fixed or replaced,I could have gone back on the dealer.This hard to do on a private owner.
 
Steve,

In regard to dealer vs. private the key is a COMPLETE,INDEPENDENT inspection by a KNOWLEDGABLE NSX mechanic, mechanical, body, and don't forget A/C and all electrical things. A/C repairs are $$$$$$$.

In regard to the snap-ring issue, as Ken mentioned 1991-1992 only. The cost of repair, if you understand the symptoms and recognize them, and STOP driving the car if it happens, will run about $1500. At that time you will pull the trans and most likely go for a new clutch, while you are in there, so let's say $3500 tops. When I purchased my 1991 with 17K miles I negotiated $2000 off, based on the trans being in the range. I have had no problem yet (12K more miles now)and if it goes, I have the money in the bank already for the repair.

If you can work the deal that way, I would not shy away from a 1991-1992 car.

HTH,
LarryB
 
Originally posted by Larry Bastanza:
At that time you will pull the trans and most likely go for a new clutch, while you are in there, so let's say $3500 tops.

Keep in mind in this scenario that, while you may be spending $3500, it includes the cost of replacing the clutch (~$2000), which presumably you would have had to do anyway (otherwise there's no reason to do it). In other words, even though you're spending $3500 on the repair, only $1500 of it is caused by the snap ring problem.

Also keep in mind that the snap ring problem may not even occur. Many of the cars in the affected range will never have a problem, since only some of the cases were manufactured out of tolerance, not all of them.
 
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