Need some opinions

[Stephen@NCAutoUSA]

I have a decision to make and need some input. Basically I'm getting my car turbo'ed. I originally wanted 550 whp. I was planning to get some motor work done also like piston, springs retainers, oil pump gear, arp's, head gasket, get the block inspected and maybe some other little things.

I've basically come to the conclusion that I don't need that much hp and would be happy with around 400 whp so that means around 8-9 lbs of boost I think and what the stock engine can handle, also the stock clutch.

There's a few factors I'm considering into this right now. The major one being my compression is a little off. My compression numbers are all around 209-212 besides for the rear drivers side bank which is 197. Also that same cylinder showed a 8% leakdown while the one next to it was 4%. These tests were done when the car was warmed up also. Obviously there is something wrong, but it's borderline. And that's where I stand.

I had my clutch done 10k miles ago "oem" and timing belt/wp and all the stuff you usually replace with it besides the tb tensioner and harmonic balancer about 4k miles ago. I don't drive more than 5k a year and I don't track my car...

Figuring that those items have been replaced and won't need to be for a few more years/miles put on and you usually replace certain bolts and gaskets when you pull the motor apart "from my understanding" and my oem clutch is basically in the better stages in it's life then I should be good for a few years right?

Evenually I do plan to get my motor built for more hp and a piece of mind, but if I can get the max use of what's already going on already then...

What do you guys think? Has anyone installed a turbo or supercharger kit when they KNEW something wasn't right with their motor? If so how'd it go, how longed it last and what were your numbers like before.

Stephen

 

[GlowNSX]

If there is something wrong with it I wouldnt do it.

You risk engine failure and breaking more parts (more expensive).

Just bite the bullet and get the motor up to top notch and then proceed with your mods.

IMHO

 

[Stephen@NCAutoUSA]

Yes I decided that's what I'm going to do.

Thanks for the input.

Stephen

 

[John McCain Racing]

Have you already gotten your turbo?

 

[Vega$ NSX]

A few thoughts/notes from someone who was almost exactly in your spot about 2-3 years ago. My compression was similar but I didn't have that one outlier like you did. However my engine had about 140,000 miles on it so I was concerned about that. Also, like you, I originally wanted 500~something whp, but concluded that 400 whp would be fine.

At the time I was told 400 whp was pushing the limits of where I would need to be concerned about stock engine so I thought I would be safe. Many other folks (such as Factor X and LoveFab) have gone up to 550 whp on their stock engineers for a period of time. After installing my turbo (Factor X), on the first day of dyno testing, we lifte a head gasket. After getting that upgraded, on our next dyno day we crushed a piston head. At that point, I decided to rebuild the motor. After a few months of 400 whp (8-9 psi), I got very used to it and it felt too slow and I then had them crank up the boost. At about 11-12 lbs (I was getting about 445 whp and very soon I got used to that as well. Unfortunately I had a smaller turbo and pretty much maxed it out. So I had to got to a bigger turbo where I was able to get 550 whp.

In summary, first, it would have been much cheaper to have done the engine build with the turbo install, instead of fixing things each time they broke. Second, you will get very used to 400 whp and you WILL want more power. Do not deny to power of the go-fast crack pipe. Either get a turbo system capable of 550 whp and just dial it down until you get used to it, or just get the 550 whp with the engine build. It will save you a lot of money. Just make sure if you go above 450 whp the rest of your car has been upgraded to handle the power (tires, brakes, suspension, engine mounts etc.)

 

[PhiAlpha44]

I've basically come to the conclusion that I don't need that much hp and would be happy with around 400 whp so that means around 8-9 lbs of boost I think and what the stock engine can handle, also the stock clutch.

You can do what Vegas said... or.... if what you said above is really the case now.. you can get the CTSC and enjoy the reliability of it.

 

[Cody@LoveFab]

Have you determined where the leakage is going?

Is it entering the crankcase through the piston rings or are one of the valves slightly open due to poor adjustment? Just some things to look into.

 

[Elite]

A few thoughts/notes from someone who was almost exactly in your spot about 2-3 years ago. My compression was similar but I didn't have that one outlier like you did. However my engine had about 140,000 miles on it so I was concerned about that. Also, like you, I originally wanted 500~something whp, but concluded that 400 whp would be fine.

At the time I was told 400 whp was pushing the limits of where I would need to be concerned about stock engine so I thought I would be safe. Many other folks (such as Factor X and LoveFab) have gone up to 550 whp on their stock engineers for a period of time. After installing my turbo (Factor X), on the first day of dyno testing, we lifte a head gasket. After getting that upgraded, on our next dyno day we crushed a piston head. At that point, I decided to rebuild the motor. After a few months of 400 whp (8-9 psi), I got very used to it and it felt too slow and I then had them crank up the boost. At about 11-12 lbs (I was getting about 445 whp and very soon I got used to that as well. Unfortunately I had a smaller turbo and pretty much maxed it out. So I had to got to a bigger turbo where I was able to get 550 whp.

In summary, first, it would have been much cheaper to have done the engine build with the turbo install, instead of fixing things each time they broke. Second, you will get very used to 400 whp and you WILL want more power. Do not deny to power of the go-fast crack pipe. Either get a turbo system capable of 550 whp and just dial it down until you get used to it, or just get the 550 whp with the engine build. It will save you a lot of money. Just make sure if you go above 450 whp the rest of your car has been upgraded to handle the power (tires, brakes, suspension, engine mounts etc.)

This is basically what we/he is doing. It will come down to his clutch for the most part.

Have you determined where the leakage is going?

Is it entering the crankcase through the piston rings or are one of the valves slightly open due to poor adjustment? Just some things to look into.

Crankcase is what I noticed. The car has 77k(from memory) and seems in good condition overall, but haven't dug in too deep yet.

 

[Stephen@NCAutoUSA]

Have you already gotten your turbo?

Yes. I've picked out a kit that Elite/Momin is putting together for me.

Stephen