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pre purchase inspection tips

Joined
24 November 2009
Messages
6
I am getting serious about a "91 with 44K VIN JH4NA1154MT002324 and have arranged an inspection at the local Acura dealer in Richmond VA as I do not know of any local independent mechanics that could help.

The car is not perfect but cosmetically fine. It appears to be well maintained mechanically and had timing belt/ WP replaced at 38K in 2005 and clutch master and slave (although not the clutch) was replaced soon after. It is completely stock other than a non-stock wheel and tire combination. Are there any areas that I should ask that the mechanic pay special attention to?
 
Sounds like a solid car. The Acura dealer should do a fine job. There is another independant in this area that is SUPER! Email 99NCXNSX; he knows him and will get you his info. He's the one you should take it too and would do great work on it if needed.

Like I said I wouldn't worry to much about it. Have you driven the car? Have you seen it and do you live in this area. If you live in this area or the Raliegh area which is where this mechanic is now that I think about it then you're in luck. But if the things you've said have been done that recently then I'd say you've got a good one. I bought mine this summer and took it to Nashville to Barney, the barn man-who is site renouned, and spent around 5k on mine so I now have around 34k in it which may be a little too much but it's perfect. I replaced the cluthc/slave and master/all fluids/adjusted the valves/did the TB/WP and hoses and oil cooler hoses and steering rack which really shouldn't have needed replacement.

These cars are very solid and with the few miles this one you are looking at has it's going to be a good one is my guess. What color is it? What are you having to give for it? Anyway, like I said these cars are really good. I set the alignment on mine too cause I had Eibach springs taken off and the stock springs reinstalled so you might check the alignment to make sure they are to 94 or 95 specs which will give you much better tire wear and hope the tires are good as well. It it's in good cosmetic shape you'll be getting a good one. Check the AC carefully - all the fan settings make sure the speakers work properly that's a problem area both AC and stereo. However there is BrianK on this site that can do all that reconditioning for you but the AC is something I'd have checked very thoroughly! It can get expensive if the condensor or evaporator isn't working right.

Hope this helps.
 
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Bring someone who knows the car with you and someone you trust will do the right thing ..... too many stories about people who are paid to do a PPI and miss things that result in a major repair
 
Check to see if the PPI includes a compression test. If not, get one.

The engine is one of the most costly repair on this car. Thus, I value a compression test more than a basic PPI.

I would be a very good decision to get a local Prime member to look at the car also. He will be more knowledgable than most dealers on certain aspects. He will know what aftermarket parts are on the car and will know about NSX specific problems to look out for. And they will know what it would cost to fix and where to repair it cheaper.

-Snap Ring
-Bad Hatch and Trunk Struts
-ABS pump problem
-High Clutch pedal engagement point
-Window Fix-it Regulator problem
-Center console aspirator fan
-Booster seat wear
-Condensation in Tail light
-Antenna mask problems
-Climate control problem
-Bose speaker/amp problem
 
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I've been checking this NSX out also on Autotrader, looks real nice.
This car was actually listed for sale 5 years ago on this site(punch in the VIN# on the search engine). The owner has said there was an AC issue, so I don't know if it had ever been addressed. Good Luck
 
Thanks for all of the good advice. The car is not in snap ring range, the AC still apparently works for the season with a recharge so has not been fixed. I would assume a compression test would be routine, but I will ask for one. Any Prime Members in the Richmond VA area??
 
Hey,vsy05- you mention high clutch engagment point in your post here. That drives me crazy on my 91. What is the suggested fix for this if there is one other than to replace the clutch.
Thanks
 
Thanks for all of the good advice. The car is not in snap ring range, the AC still apparently works for the season with a recharge so has not been fixed. I would assume a compression test would be routine, but I will ask for one. Any Prime Members in the Richmond VA area??

You have to ask for a compression test since it costs extra. If all cyls are very close in compression then I wouldn't pay extra for the leak down test. How do you know if it is not within snap ring range? Do you have the transmission number? Don't take anyones word for it.

Ask for a body shop guy to have a look at it also. Pay attention to all body panel seams. The gaps should be uniform and constant. Look at the bolt heads for the fenders and see if they have ever been removed. Look under the car for any signs of leaks or paint overspray.

Good Luck!
 
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