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pulling wire

Joined
16 February 2004
Messages
861
Location
Vancouver,B.C.
HOW DO YOU GET THE WIRE THROUGH THE RUBBER BOOT BETWEEN THE DOOR AND CAR.Yes I was yelling!!!!
I am so TICKED OFF at my car right now,it's not funny!!!
D'ecosse,malibu rapper,or anyone help.I have tried for 2 hours,it seems like the factory rubber is already stuffed so full of wires that I can't get the speaker wire through.Is there another alternative?

Stacy
 
Haha, this is one where I gave up! D'Ecosse managed to snake his through, I spoke to some other people who had earlier cars than I did and they were successful as well. I tried, with several different fishing methods and failed. I tried solid electrical core wire, stranded electrical wire, a coathanger, everything I could think of and failed! It's just supposed to take time but I felt very strongly after a couple of hours that it is impossible. It might be a "feature" of the later model cars that makes it damn near impossible to do.

I thought I was crafty. I thought I was patient. I gave it my all and had to give up. So this is what I did below:



Look closely at that picture. There is a grommet that comes from the factory. The black wire above the hinge is my speaker wire. I ran my round wire through there, then into the bottom of the boot that goes into the door. I covered the round wire in electrical tape so that it would be all black. It doesn't bother me at all when I open my door and doesn't look bad IMO.
 
Yes, I did it - it was sure no joy though!
I popped the grommet at the bulkhead & also the door so the rubber sleeve is a free-er entity. Then I actually used an electrical fish & pushed that down through the harness from the top; then attached a piece of solid core 12 ga to the fish & pulled it back up through, finally soldered the solid core to the speaker wire & pulled that back on down. It helps to have some lube on there to get it to work through easier. If you go through between the wires inside the harness with the fish originally it is hopeless; it needs to try to go down one side. By soldering the wire it reduce the bulk from having to fold & tape it.
I believe I may still have the scars & bruises from that episode! You couldn't pay me to do that again I'm thinking!

I actually had to run a second set as I have separate bi-amped drives to my mids & tweeters but they went outside & taped up to the original rubber harness.
 
Thanks again guys.The outside and taped to the rubber seems to be the only way this will happen for me.Wish I had known this before WASTING two hours.One thing I have learnt from these cars is "nothing's cheap or easy to do".
Stacy
 
Malibu Rapper said:
Yeah I can only imagine all the work that goes into getting the wire through then realizing that our car has a 2nd door!
Too funny, Mr Pompous!
superbiggrin.gif

Of course I meant I had 2 sets one each door.
Fortunately on the intial set I had done the driver's side first - the passenger was a snap relatively once I had the "technique" (if it's worth calling it that!) down - a lot less wires to deal with on that side.

stacy'snsx said:
.....Wish I had known this before WASTING two hours.....
Well, duuuhhhh - need to ask first next time!
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stacy'snsx said:
HOW DO YOU GET THE WIRE THROUGH THE RUBBER BOOT BETWEEN THE DOOR AND CAR.Yes I was yelling!!!!
I am so TICKED OFF at my car right now,it's not funny!!!
D'ecosse,malibu rapper,or anyone help.I have tried for 2 hours,it seems like the factory rubber is already stuffed so full of wires that I can't get the speaker wire through.Is there another alternative?

Stacy

What I did was used a dremel with a straight bottom cutting bit. Put drop light at the far end of door. Put arm into door, drilled a hole into the rubber boot. Ran wire in and then added wire loom around it. See pic!
 

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DONE!!!
I poked a hole in the existing rubber boot,one at the top and one at the bottom and ran my wires through each hole.I wrapped the wires in a special cloth tape.I then strapped the wires to the rubber boot.You can barely see the wires at all.
Thanks for the help and ideas guys!!
Stacy
 
stacy'snsx said:
DONE!!!
I poked a hole in the existing rubber boot,one at the top and one at the bottom and ran my wires through each hole.I wrapped the wires in a special cloth tape.I then strapped the wires to the rubber boot.You can barely see the wires at all.
Thanks for the help and ideas guys!!
Stacy

Sorry,
I did not put I drilled the hole into the rubber boot below where the factory bunch is, not the metal.
 
I'm exhausted from working on 2 NSX stereos simultaneously this weekend. Didn't even get a chance to drive my car. Just wanted to update this thread with some wire pulling info. I worked on a 95 and I think a 93. The 95 is by far harder to run wire into the door than the older car was. The boot design is a bit different, much tighter on the 95. Don't even think about trying to pull the wire through the boot on the later cars. It constantly amazes me all the little changes that the cars have gone through over the years.
 
I ended up poking a hole in the side but through the big rubber grommet where all the wires go through(factory).Can't even see the speaker wire!
 

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Why not just cut the FACTORY WIRES running from the stereo to the doors... attach the new wires to the factory ones behind the radio and then pull them from the door so that the new wires get pulled through using the old ones as a snale and then the factory ones get removed while the new ones get pulled to the doors?

Would that work?
 
menuserve said:
Why not just cut the FACTORY WIRES running from the stereo to the doors... attach the new wires to the factory ones behind the radio and then pull them from the door so that the new wires get pulled through using the old ones as a snale and then the factory ones get removed while the new ones get pulled to the doors?

Would that work?

Probably not. The factory wires go through many different plugs. It is not like aftermarket, one straight wire.
 
menuserve said:
... we will see - maybe next weekend!

Yeah? Good luck with that! <!--StartFragment -->
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You should have the most fun pulling the wires through the connectors - that'll be a neat trick if you can pull it off.
We (& NASA) are all anxiously awaiting to see how that's done.....
 
I just used the factory wires that originally went to the Bose units. Unless you're running a bi-amplified setup like Ken did, there's no need to run new speaker wires.
 
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