radio fuse blowing - where do I start?

[BMillar]

The 10a kick panel radio fuse is blowing. Fuse blows immediately when replaced, radio does not appear to turn on before fuse blows. I am ignorant of audio electrical problems. Ideas of what to start looking at would be appreciated.

Low mile 1991. I am second careful owner. The radio is stock and as far as I know, has not had any prior repair. Speakers are stock and have not had the amp rebuild (but they were working). About 2 years ago I removed the head unit and installed the blitz ipod adapter, everything worked perfectly until the fuse blew without warning 1-2 weeks ago. I have not worked on or replaced the antenna. I know of no old electrical work or splicing anywhere in the electrical system. I did replace the ac control unit with a rebuilt one from BrianK about 2-3 years ago. The ac control unit continues to function, as does the TCS, dash lights, cruse control, etc. From what I can tell everything works except the radio. So, where do I start looking to troubleshoot the cause?

 

[Briank]

Do you have anything connected to option connector C913?

Disconnect the radio and replace the fuse and see if it holds if it does then the radio is bad if not then you have a short in the wiring to the radio.

 

[BMillar]

The only thing connected to the connector [if you are referring to the blitz ipod adapter] is the CD changer, which I have not even used in several years.

Thanks. Over the weekend I hope to have a chance to disconnect the radio and try out your suggestion.

 

[Malibu Rapper]

If everything else is stock and this fuse is blowing, I'd be wary of that Ipod adapter. Disconnect that when you plug your stereo back in.

 

[MANIACura]

I just ordered the Blitzsafe IPOD adapter for my 91 ($97 from LOGJAM). I tried to plug it in but the plugs would barely fit into my head unit and CD plug. Really poor quality. I finally get it plugged in and go to turn on the radio and it's dead. Guess what....blown radio fuse (10 AMP). Replaced the fuse...pops immediately. Unplug the Blitzsafe, replace the fuse.......and wala....radio works like a champ. Plug in Blitzsafe.....fuse blows again. This is where I make a colosal mistake because I'm in that mode where I'm determined to make this adapter work. I put in a 15 AMP fuse to see what happens. As soon as turn on the radio I smell something burning. Head unit is now cooked $97 to Blitzsafe to wait a week and receive this crappy quality connector that cooks my head unit. Unbeleivable. I'll never touch another Blitzsafe product again.

 

[Inexcess]

I put in a 15 AMP fuse to see what happens.

Hope you learn from this and not try to win a Darwin award in the future. Good thing most folks don't have fuse boxes in houses anymore....

Many folks have bought and used the Blitzsafe adapters with no problems. They do have to be installed correctly to work.

 

[MANIACura]

Many folks have bought and used the Blitzsafe adapters with no problems. They do have to be installed correctly to work.

Well, lets review the installation instructions......
1) Connect the 8-Pin connector from the Blitzsafe interface into the female 8-pin connector on the back of the radio.
2) Connect the 8-pin connector on the CD changer into the female 8-pin connector on the Blitzsafe interface.
3) Install radio.
Hey you're right....maybe I didn't install it correctly. Thanks for the help, genius!
I already acknowledged that putting the 15 AMP fuse in was stupid. It still doesn't change the fact that the Blitzsafe provided a direct short to the radio. Many people have had problems with this adapter. I usually expect more helpful posts on NSXPrime. I guess you couldn't resist the oportunity.

 

[nsxter]

You may have the wrong blitzsafe model, if it is the correct one, it should be installed in the trunk with the cd changer wire on the drivers side. There are more threads on the blitzsafe install.

http://www.nsxprime.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62935&highlight=ipod+install

I had one for a short period (still have it in storage) it did not like to change between the inputs, it would, but not very consistant or quick. I switched to a different interface. My CD changer would skip when I hit a bump, most of the older CD players do. I went the IPOD route and it is sooooo much better.

 

[10Blade]

Same sort of thing was happening to me after I installed an iPod adaptor. Turned out that a spliced wire IN THE FREAKIN TRUNK was bumping up against the body and shorting the whole system. The fuse would blow immediately and without any regard to what I was doing or not doing. It readlly had no relationship to the adaptor install at all.

Before I figured this out, I had taken out the adaptor, taken out the stereo, rewired and rechecked everything. What a pain.

Take a look around for any exposed wires. I found my short in the trunk, near the antenna. Someone had spliced into the power wire to power who-knows-what, and then left the snapping splice thing in place with a little nubbin of wire stickin out. Tard.

Good luck, uecker

 

[MANIACura]

Take a look around for any exposed wires. I found my short in the trunk, near the antenna. Someone had spliced into the power wire to power who-knows-what, and then left the snapping splice thing in place with a little nubbin of wire stickin out. Tard.

Thanks for the help...your post put me in the right direction. I think I found the issue. I'm pretty sure it had to do with a partially removed factory phone system. The main power cord had been cut. It was capped but not properly....probably shorted to itself. I'm not sure why it only blew radio fuses with the Blitzsafe installed? I think I have read where the factory phone used the speakers (or maybe just the center speaker) from the stereo system. Maybe this had something to do with it. Anyway, now that the entire phone system wiring has been correctly removed, the Blitzsafe works fine. Thanks again, this website is an incredible source of information because of people like you.

 

[comtec]

Good job finding it Matt,

I work with electricity and electronics for a living. I have seen people do the same thing a bunch of times and these guys are trained to work with these circuits. So don't feel too bad about what you did.

Most everything has a different tolerance before the circuit (device/wiring) is damaged and it depends on a number of different factors. The circuits are designed with all these factors taken in to consideration and that is how they come up with the amperage of the protection fuse/breaker. That is why you see so many different amperage fuses on a car instead of all just being the same.

Anyone working with electrical problems should have a volt/ohm meter. When the new fuse blew if you had checked the fuse terminal for a short to ground you would have seen it and could have proceeded from there.

But don't let anyone get you down. Everyone makes mistakes, nobody is perfect. I do dumb stuff all the time i just try to not tell anyone :wink: :biggrin: .