rotor question

[PAUL M]

Hi im going change my rotors to slotted tommorrow (couldnt take the brake shudder annymore) i am using the existing pads since the still have meat on them. i was just wondering if there is something i need
to do to break them in?
thanks
Paul M.
95-t blk blk

 

[DocL]

Originally posted by PAUL M:
Hi im going change my rotors to slotted tommorrow (couldnt take the brake shudder annymore) i am using the existing pads since the still have meat on them...

I would suggest that you wait on the install and upgrade to street/track pads with the new rotors. Also, new rotors should always be installed with new pads to begin with. I'm surprised that it wasn't brought to your attention when you ordered them.

 

[DanO]

Originally posted by Dr.Lane:
I would suggest that you wait on the install and upgrade to street/track pads with the new rotors. Also, new rotors should always be installed with new pads to begin with. I'm surprised that it wasn't brought to your attention when you ordered them.

Hmmm…this seems to be conventional wisdom among car dealerships

. But when I talk to racers and top mechanics and brake experts I never hear this new pad/new rotor matching thing, after all, we replace pads without replacing rotors all the time. Can’t see any logical or scientific reason why we need to match new rotors with new pads.

Just take it easy on the brakes for the firs few hundred miles. When you first install them, do a few (like 6) 35-40 to zero moderate stops, the goal here is to get the rotors hot but not too hot and then let them cool for an extended period of time. This “heat cycling” strengthens the rotors much like heat cycling tires.

For help with rotor install check out www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/nsxgarage.html

DanO

------------------
Member NSX D-I-Y Club

 

[DocL]

Originally posted by DanO:
Hmmm…this seems to be conventional wisdom among car dealerships

. But when I talk to racers and top mechanics and brake experts I never hear this new pad/new rotor matching thing, after all, we replace pads without replacing rotors all the time. Can’t see any logical or scientific reason why we need to match new rotors with new pads.

...

Actually, when I ordered my rotors from Comptech, they told me to get new pads and it was also clearly mentioned in the instructions that came with the rotors. Also, brakes are one of the most important parts on a car, so why take a risk with using worn pads on new rotors. It's possible that the old pads are chaffed on the edges, and that could have been the problem in the first place. This is not the same as replacing new pads on old rotors where shops like to resurface the rotors which is sometimes unnecessary.

Anyway, I have always taken the "better to be safe than sorry" philosophy on car maintanence, especially with the NSX.

Just my $.02

 

[DanO]

Originally posted by Dr.Lane:
Actually, when I ordered my rotors from Comptech, they told me to get new pads and it was also clearly mentioned in the instructions that came with the rotors.

Actually, the more I think about it the more it makes sense to try and replace the pads with the rotors, especially if the pads are badly worn. If the pads are deeply grooved then they may have a tendency to transfer the grooves to the rotors, which may hurt the longevity of the rotors and subsequent pads (I’m guessing here). Personally, I’ve switched out many rotors without replacing the pads and have never had a problem as long as I’ve initialized the rotors properly. But, I’ve always replaced the pads if they were really grooved or deteriorated. So it seems in a perfect world, matching a new set of rotors with a new set of pads would be ideal. And I concur with Dr. Lane that the brakes are no place to be skimping. But, if you are tracking your car often (like it sounds like you are b/c your installing slotted rotors) changing your brake pads and rotors becomes commonplace and sometimes you don’t always have the luxury of installing a new set of pads on every rotor change.

Drive safely,

DanO

------------------
Member NSX D-I-Y Club

 

[PAUL M]

HI
Thanks for the help. just finished changing the rotors. I used the existing pads. they were in good shape.i wasnt worried about saving the cash, it was the time factor. this was the only weekend i had to do it for a while so i wouldnt have gotten the pads in time. took the car for a drive did some 40-0 stops no shaking!!! thank god
DanO your website was very helpful thanks!
the only problem i had was getting those goddam screws off the rotors i stripped every one of them! if it wasnt for that it was cake.i used my dremel tool with a sanding disc to cut a groove in the screw then i got it to break with a regular screwdiver.
thanks again for the help
if any problems arise from using the old pads i will post the site
Paul M 95-t blk/blk rm intake rsr exhaust wingswest frontand sides
here's a pic of dali slotted rotors

[This message has been edited by PAUL M (edited 02 April 2001).]

 

[DocL]

Paul, I like the slotted rotors but Im confused as to why you need them on a 4x4.

I'm also impressed that you did the install with hand tools, good job!

 

[DanO]

Originally posted by Dr.Lane:
I'm also impressed that you did the install with hand tools, good job!

you can visit www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/nsxgarage.html and see what other NSX things you can do with hand tools

 

[DocL]

Originally posted by DanO:
you can visit www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/nsxgarage.html and see what other NSX things you can do with hand tools

I have used your site for reference many times Dan. Thank you very much for providing us with the detailed information and directions. I am deciding whether or not I need to install a compressor and get an impact wrench. That is why I was quite impressed that the rotor install can be done with hand tools.

When does the madness stop??

 

[PAUL M]

hi
it was a pretty easy job to do. the first side i did took me a while because after i stripped the screw(very easy to do!) i tried to drill it out.Took a while the second screw i cut a slot in it with the dremel tool and used a regular large sized screwdriver to get it to break.all and all not a hard job. thanks again for the help.

[This message has been edited by PAUL M (edited 04 April 2001).]

 

[DanO]

Really, when does the madness stop?

For me, it all started with a simple K&N filter install and ended up a few years later with a lift and air tools and an epoxy painted garage and...somebody make it stop! Right now I have the heads off my car (long story) and the interior ripped out (stereo install). Hopefully I’ll have it all put together within the next month (stereo is finally starting to sound really good).

I'm sorry I didn't include a warning and instructions on how to remove those pesky little rotor screws. The easiest way is with an impact screwdriver ~$20. This is an oversight on my website and you’re not the first person to run into the problem. I’ll try and update the procedure within the next week. These screws are there only if the rotors have never come off the car before, I guess they’re installed on the assembly line to keep the rotors from falling off before the wheels are screwed on. As far as I know, they never need to be reinstalled.

Thanks for the feedback,
DanO

 

[Jason Weaver]

Dan, are you doing any headwork while the heads are off? Just curious.

------------------
Jason

 

[DanO]

Originally posted by Jason Weaver:
Dan, are you doing any headwork while the heads are off? Just curious.

No. Just putting in some un-bent valves

and am having the seals done and the shop is touching-up the seats if needed. I took a look at doing the Comptech IEM/Extrude Hone deal, but the $/hp seemed a little steep. Maybe next year

DanO