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The official real $$$price of the iron rotors!!!

Joined
3 October 2017
Messages
119
There has been a lot of talk that Iron rotors cost $3k to replace on 2nd gen NSX. I called the NSX concierge and they looked into it for me and called the parts dept. in Ohio. They told me the prices were completely wrong and just place holders.

The official price is $850 each for the rear and the fronts should be somewhere between $1000 and $1500 the reason i don't have the fronts yet are they will be getting me the numbers this week as they have not been updated in Acura system. So that is the ballpark guys on those is should be very close.

SO if you own an NSX and need iron rotors and get a crazy price from dealer call NSX concierge they have the correct pricing directly form ohio and it should be changed this week. This is official and no BS.

So there are no excuses not to track your car because of cost of consumables. Also found out there is a very expensive service for Cars with carbon ceramic brakes this is from an owner.

If you have carbon rotors on your NSX, be prepared to dish out over a $1000 just to have your brakes INSPECTED. 9 hours of billed time to perform the service. All rotors need to come off, cleaned with a solution, then placed in a special oven to dry. Since you can not measure rotor life by thickness with the carbon rotors, once dried, they are weighed. Cracked or below the service weight, be prepared to dish out some more money. about 3k to 4k per side............



Also this is what i was told by NSX tech if you want to switch between iron rotors and CCB you have to replace the ECU as well as rear calipers. You do not have to replace master cylinder or front calipers. All you need then is the CCB rotors and pads.

hope is this helps


 
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That just made my choice easier. Going with iron rotors

I will update the front rotors price this week Also another point to consider. The iron rotors are much more grabby and stop better on the street initially COLD and their is virtually no difference in panic stops.

The CCB do not stop as well cold I complained of this on test drives between the Iron rotors cars and CCB. Once the CCB were warm they were slightly better but again initially Iron rotors more grabby and little difference.


Also believe it or not Acura is recommending Iron rotors for track use over CCB this is mentioned in this one take video review on NSX

https://youtu.be/zwkUHSt35vE
 
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This is a bit surprising. That's a lot of hassle and cost to go thru to get a car track inspected. My McLaren dealer simply charges $200-300 to do a pre or post track day inspection so I have no issues with warrantying something later.

I prefer the feel of the carbon brakes on the 12C as opposed to their iron counterpart. I'm not sure how it will be different on the NSX but in theory Acura should be able to "program" it to feel the similar.

(I don't own a Mac but have been looking into it extensively)
 
Does the price include pads also? If not, how much extra are those?

I am looking at a car with 11k miles on it, with 10mm front and 8mm rear remaining - the manual indicates 6mm is when they should be replaced. How many mm are these pads when new?

Seems like this car was driven hard, or the pads just wear quickly in normal spirited driving.
 
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Very few of the 2017 cars came with iron brakes. The majority were dealer ordered and came with the CCB's. Once the $30K rebate came out, those few cars with iron brakes were snapped up almost immediately. I toiled over the CCB's, knowing then that the iron brakes wore better if you had track usage in mind. It was said that the CCB's would/could last 100k miles in normal street usage, but if you tracked the CCB's they would wear out exponentially faster and cost you a fortune. Having vintage raced for a dozen years I figured I'd get to the track some, but figured that if you had a car that could do 191 MPH, you just as well have the best brakes money can buy. Plus, I figured that they would help with resale, and then there were the red calipers...... I have to say braking is incredible. So, considering I have 3700 miles on my car in 27 months, I'd expect my rotors to last for a long time, barring some unforseen and unpredictable damage to a rotor or pad. I have also heard that most of the wear in the CCB's is in the pads which can be replaced cheaper than the rotors...... Time will tell.

If I had it to do all over again, not sure what direction I would go. For the moment I'm glad I have the CCB's, like every other major supercar in the world......
 
Very few of the 2017 cars came with iron brakes. The majority were dealer ordered and came with the CCB's. Once the $30K rebate came out, those few cars with iron brakes were snapped up almost immediately. I toiled over the CCB's, knowing then that the iron brakes wore better if you had track usage in mind. It was said that the CCB's would/could last 100k miles in normal street usage, but if you tracked the CCB's they would wear out exponentially faster and cost you a fortune. Having vintage raced for a dozen years I figured I'd get to the track some, but figured that if you had a car that could do 191 MPH, you just as well have the best brakes money can buy. Plus, I figured that they would help with resale, and then there were the red calipers...... I have to say braking is incredible. So, considering I have 3700 miles on my car in 27 months, I'd expect my rotors to last for a long time, barring some unforseen and unpredictable damage to a rotor or pad. I have also heard that most of the wear in the CCB's is in the pads which can be replaced cheaper than the rotors...... Time will tell.

If I had it to do all over again, not sure what direction I would go. For the moment I'm glad I have the CCB's, like every other major supercar in the world......

I had CCB on my F-type. They were outstanding but make no mistake they wear out quick on the track. I tracked the car two times at Sebring and they were toast. Thankfully the car was a lease and no one cared at turn in time. I went with iron for the NSX. If I’m not tracking then it’s CCB for my next car. Track use I would avoid CCB simply because the cost is insane although seems opposite what you would think.

MC
 
Z06NSXCTS, thanks for the input on the brakes.

The early interviews by Matt Farrah and Chris Harris gave me the confidence to buy my 17' without even driving one. I was not disappointed. Matt thinks the car is "Fucking Fantastic....." and so do I.....
 
Does the price include pads also? If not, how much extra are those?

Oddly enough, the iron pads are more expensive than the CCB, but rotors are a different story. The iron rear pads are around $580 and the front $630. I've gone through a set of both and getting there on another set of rears. 10,000 miles with 11 or 12 track days.

If you measure them with the backing plate, the rears are 14.5mm new and the fronts 15.5mm I've measured the minimum including the plate to be 8.4mm rear and 9.3mm front. That allows some margin for the mounting pins in the pad before it's too late.

Endless just released what I think are the only third party race pads for the NC1 at $360 and $515. I have not tried them.
 
I'd love to have a setup that has great braking capability without all the brake dust. On my Lexus RC-F, the car came with high-performance, high-friction brake pads that made my white car turn gray within a matter of days. Lexus later came out with a TSB where they would replace the pads with different ones that reduced the dust and noise dramatically with only a slight reduction in braking performance. I did notice that my stopping power reduced, but it just forced me to adjust when and how hard I had to brake. It was worth it though for my sanity.
 
Yes, the dust is bad and is the trade off for crazy stopping power. I lose about 1mm off the fronts and 1.5mm off the rears on an average track day. The wheels are nasty nasty nasty after.

My Lexus GS F-Sport brakes are pretty dusty too and so are my 997 brakes. I guess I've given up and gotten used to it.
 
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