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Time for my '95's first maintenance since I've owned it, could use advice

Joined
4 September 2015
Messages
18
Location
Indiana
Hello all,
I picked up my car, a Green/Tan NSX-T, 6 weeks ago from the seller in Gainesville, FL. The car had 79,442 miles on it when I bought the car, and it currently has ~82,800. The service sticker in the window says next service is due at 83,600. The previous owner put ~3,000 miles on the car in the 18 months he owned it. He was the fifth owner of the car. It has lived in Florida for the majority of its life, but has spent some time in Colorado and Washington. I had the car inspected by the Gainesville Acura dealer, which had an NSX trained tech. The seller never used this dealership, and preferred independent shops service his car. The inspection showed that the car has an oil pan leak and a crank case oil leak, and the quote for the repair was ~$2,000. The owner knew about the leaks and said that he never had to add oil to the engine, and never saw more than a tablespoon sized puddle of oil under the car. I have seen tiny puddles occasionally, and can see where the oil has leaked out and dried. Other than that, the car was very clean. The technician thought that the right side body panel and front bumper had been repainted, but I cannot see any difference. There is no evidence of an accident anywhere on the car, nor on the Carfax report. The bumper looks a different shade, but only because it is plastic, I think. None of the body panels look moved, uneven, or anything. On my 900 mile drive from Florida to Indiana I added a half a quart of oil to the engine, and have added another quart as well. I check the oil every ~500 miles. I had the car up to 140 mph and it was steady as a rock, both the chassis and the engine.
The car's service history showed that it went into the shop at least once for a leaking valve cover gasket, which was at one point mistaken for an oil pan leak. I am wondering if this is the case, but I am probably just being optimistic.
The service manager said that a new clutch would cost no extra labor with those two repairs, and I am wondering if that is worth replacing as well, since the clutch has ~30,000 miles on it. It was replaced around 51,000 miles.

I do not know what is normal for the 80,000 mile service to include.
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There is a whistle/squeak/squeal that occurs at partial throttle, maybe between 10-15%. It happens very close to constant speed throttle application. It will happen in any gear, at any rpm, at any speed, including in neutral and stopped. The car has a K&N air filter in the stock air box. I checked the filter and made sure all the screws around the box are tight. My dad's mechanic thought that it sounded like injector blowby. I noticed the noise on my drive home from Florida, and have monitored it. I try not to let the noise happen when I drive since I am worried that it is a sign of something bad. I called an Acura dealership on my drive home from Florida and their tech thought it could be a worn timing belt. I believe the belts were replaced less than 10,000 miles ago (but 10 years ago!). I am wondering what I should do about this noise? I have changed the spark plugs in the car, and the set that I removed from the car looked fine. This hasn't changed the whistle though.

The brake pedal fades at slow speed and goes to the floor. The brake fluid reservoir is full, and this doesn't happen at higher speed. Around town, I have to pump the brakes occasionally to keep the pedal stiff. I am wondering if the brakes need to be bled, or if there is a warped rotor? I bled the brakes and this seems to have fixed the problem, except on a rare occasion now. It never happens on the highway.

The car has TSW wheels on it, and Yokohama tires. I am wondering what the best performing size of wheel and tire are. I am not sure if I want to keep these TSW wheels, and would likely sell them. They are 17' fronts and 18' rears, with an inset of about 2.5" for the rear rims. I think they are 8.5" wide in front and 10.5" wide in the back.
The car has Bilstein shocks on it, as well. I am not sure what model, or how old they are. The Acura tech who inspected the car for me thought they looked good, no leaks or anything notable. They are firm and they seem to work well. These is a rattle in the front end of the car going over any size bump/crack for a few minutes when I first start driving that seems to go away eventually, or at least lessen. I have tightened the spare tire nut, so the spare isn't rattling around at all.
These are the only mods that the car has other than the K&N air filter, to my knowledge.

I saw the post of some other user considering this car, and someone recommended that the belts and water pump would need replacing, simply because they were last replaced 10 years ago.

Here is a consolidated list of issues that I have found with the car since I bought it:
-The brake fluid needs to be flushed and replaced.
-There is a sudden, loud increase in wind through the top window seal at 90+ mph.
-It sounds like there might be a misfire at idle and up to 2-3000 rpm. There is a low constant throb that increases with the throttle. When I am revving higher or have floored it, it doesn't really sound like there is a misfire. The car feels fast enough that I don't think there is one, but my dad's mechanic though there might be one, so I am wondering now.
-Whistle at partial (10-15%) throttle.
-Front end rattle over bumps.
-Clicking noise when car is started. Seems to be either the A/C or the defroster. It goes away after a few seconds, but has started increasing in time recently.
-Oil pan (gasket?) oil leak.
-Crank case oil leak.
-I want the injectors/coils inspected to make sure they all work completely.
-I want the valve covers checked for oil leaks.
-I have not checked the transmission fluid myself, but the inspection before I bought the car did and it was fine. I want it replaced.
-There is a small scratch on the passenger side headlight cover, about an inch long, and a small scratch on the passenger side bumper. They are different kinds of scratches and I do not think they occured at the same time.
-The timing belt and water pump likely need to be replaced.
-The rear window seems dark, it is a bit fuzzy to see out of and seems darker than the other windows. I do not know if this s normal, or if the defrost layer is wearing out and discoloring, or what.
-I want the wheels balanced and aligned.
-The shift knob will twist on the stick, if I use even a moderate amount of force, and it happens on accident. This should be tightened.


Thank you all for your support and help! I love the car so far, and am looking forward to learning more about it.
I copied the service history excel sheet but I also uploaded and attached the service history of my NSX, from what I have been able to find out. I would be curious to hear what recommendations You have for me to make sure the car will run well for a long time.

9/26/2015 ~81,500 Changed spark plugs. New plugs are NGK PFR6G-11's $~75 for 6 plugs, I changed them myself.
8/28/201579,442Car purchased by me from previous owner. He shipped original 6 spoke wheels to me.$39,000.00GainesvilleFlorida
8/24/2015~79,350Vehicle Inspection: Crank Case Oil Leak. Oil Pan Oil Leak. Est. $2000 for both repairs. Spare tire rotted out.~$125Gainesville Acura DealerFlorida
9/26/2014-Registration renewed. Title registered as personal vehicle. Color noted as green.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
3/14/201478,568Steering Rack replaced, original rack was rebuilt and reinstalled. Steering Aligned. Rear tires replaced. Rear wheels balanced. Carfax reported tires mounted and balanced, and alignment performed.$1,526.79Ahrens Auto Service CenterFlorida
2/6/2014-used Steering Rack purchased.$1,500.00ahparts.comCA
2/4/201476,635Engine Oil and Oil Filter replaced. 5W30 Synthetic oil used. Clutch Adjusted, was found to be properly set, but a loose pressure plate bolt was found and removed. Steering issue detected. Carfax reported the oil and filter changed, and a noise was checked.$201.44Ahrens Auto Service CenterFlorida
1/30/2014-Title updated/reissued, registration renewed/reissued, new owner reported, vehicle registered as a personal vehicle, color noted as green.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
1/26/2014-K&N Air Filter purchased.$84.79Advance Auto PartsFlorida
1/22/2014-Vehicle purchase reported.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
10/24/201375,896Check Engine light on. Diagnosis found MAP sensor too high and loose connection found. Connection was fixed, this cleared the code. Vehicle inspected. Carfax reported maintenance inspection completed, car washed/detailed, and engine checked.$87.00Fountain AcuraFlorida
6/9/2013-New Battery purchased.$ 107.96WalmartFlorida
3/18/201374,410Vehicle maintenance inspection completed. Vehicle washed/detailed. Engine checked.-Fountain AcuraFlorida
3/16/201374,410Vehicle Inspection: Diagnosis found internal fault to rear catalytic converter. Oxygen Sensor replaced.$187.00Fountain AcuraFlorida
1/14/2013-Registration reissued/renewed. Title registered as personal vehicle. Loan/lien reported. Color noted as green.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
12/24/201273,913Vehicle maintenance inspection completed. Vehicle washed/detailed. Engine checked.Fountain AcuraFlorida
12/19/201273,913Vehicle Inspection: Diagnosis found an issue with the catalytic converter, a misfire in cylinder #5, worn spark plugs and a faulty ignition coil were found to be the cause. All spark plugs replaced and Ignition coil #5 was replaced. Catalytic converter not addressed.$480.08Fountain AcuraFlorida
10/24/201273,512Vehicle Inspected: Coolant Resevoir was cracked, and was replaced. The windshield washer pump was replaced. Motor oil changed. Tires/wheels balanced and aligned. Right and Left Tie Rod end's replaced. Left axle shaft assembly replaced, new seal installed. Ride height raised.$ 1,468.84First Class AutomotiveFlorida
11/28/2011-Title reissued/updated. Loan/lien reported. New owner reported. Vehicle registered as personal vehicle. Color noted as green.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
11/08/2011- 11/15/201170,425Bill of Lading. From Dean Sloan to Greg Stillman. Maple Valley, WA to Orlando, FL. Scratches noted on right headlight cover, rear bumper, and rear quarter panel.$1,100Move It Auto Transport, Inc.Washington
11/8/2011-Vehicle purchase reported.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
10/25/201170,395Oil leak found at valve covers. Found residue from previous leakage that has since been resealed, cleaned and rechecked okay.$98.00Zahntech Import AutomotiveWashington
10/24/201170,333Buyer's Inspection: Steering, Suspension, Brakes, Exhaust, Radiator, Transmission, HVAC System, Battery, Fluid levels, Lights and Electric. Front Tires: 9/32. Rear Tires: 7/32. Front Brakes 10mm. Rear Brakes: 8mm. Recommendations: Front valve cover gasket has slight leak. Oil pan gasket has slight leak. Window washer spray not working. Power windows raise slowly. Carfax reported vehicle was serviced.$137.73Acura of SeattleWashington
10/12/2011-Vehicle emissions inspection-Washington Inspection StationWashington
8/29/201170,089Valves adjusted, valve cover gaskets replaced, PCV valve replaced. Cam end plug replaced. Front brake pads replaced and rotors resurfaced. Both inner CV boots replaced.$1,306.14Zahntech Import AutomotiveWashington
8/16/201169,519Motor oil and oil filter changed. Oil drain bolt washer changed. Front Tires: 9/32. Rear Tires: 7/32. Front Brakes: 5mm. Rear Brakes: 6mm. Recommendations: Valve cover gasket leaking down to the oil pan. Fluids topped off. Wheels aligned. Carfax reported oil and filter changed.$ 55.57Acura of SeattleWashington
9/23/2010-Registration reissued/renewed. Load/lien reported.-Washington Motor Vehicle Dep'tWashington
11/12/2009-Vehicle emissions inspection-Washington Inspection StationWashington
5/14/200962,017Oil and filter changed. Four wheel alignment performed.-Acura of SeattleWashington
10/17/2008-Title issued/updated. New owner reported. Loan/lien reported. Vehicle color noted as green.-Washington Motor Vehicle Dep'tWashington
10/3/2008-Vehicle emissions inspection-Washington Inspection StationWashington
9/23/2008-Vehicle Sold-Dealer Inventory
5/30/2008-Spark plugs replaced-Mile High AcuraColorado
5/19/200857,091Vehicle offered for sale.-Dealer Inventory
5/14/200857,021Owner said vehicle overheats with AC on, and coolant level looks very low. Coolant drained, and changed, refilled to full. Test driven with AC on and car did not overheat. Adjusted steering to the right a bit, it was off. Spark plugs replaced. Fan control module was found to be faulty, and was replaced. A loose sensor connector was found and reattached. It was noted that the transmission was removed and reinstalled at some point, most like for a clutch replacement. Owner noted the car had a steering issue. Diagnosis found that the EPS had minor kickback. An unattached ground wire was found at the rack connectors, and this was reattached. Outboard connector was corroded due to a torn boot, and this was cleaned and resealed. Steering rack thought to be faulty after two adjustments.$932.88Mile High AcuraColorado
5/12/2008-Vehicle serviced-Mile High AcuraColorado
4/11/200856,773Motor oil, drain plug washer, and oil filter changed. Wheels aligned. Carfax reported the oil and filter changed.$167.06Mile High AcuraColorado
2/19/2008-Title reissued/updated. Loan/lien reported.-Kansas Motor Vehicle Dep'tKansas
10/2/2007-Registration renewed/issued.-Kansas Motor Vehicle Dep'tKansas
7/18/200754,188New front tires installed. All 4 wheels aligned. Car detailed by dealer. Carfax reported the car washed, and four wheel alignment performed.$0.00Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
5/30/2007-Oxygen sensor replaced. ECM's checked. Oil and filter changed.-Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
5/21/200753,793Oxygen/ Air Fuel Ratio Sensor replaced. Engine oil, drain plug washer, and oil filter changed. Locking Lugnuts reinstalled.$0.00Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
4/28/2007-Valve cover gaskets replaced. Clutch kit removed and replaced.$734.49Modified PerformanceKansas
3/9/2007-Vehicle serviced-Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
2/17/2007-Battery replaced$99.99NTB StoreKansas
10/2/2006-Registration renewed/issued.-Kansas Motor Vehicle Dep'tKansas
3/17/200651,465Master Cylinder (brake?) replaced. Clutch Slave Cylinder replaced. Engine oil and oil filter replaced.$289.98Firestone Complete Auto CareKansas
6/24/200549,653Timing belt inspected because of whine. Dealer says a whine is normal with a new belt. Oil drip under engine, dealer found that the oil was coming from aftermarket oil filter. Engine oil, drain plug washer, and oil filter replaced. Inspected: Tires, Wiper fluid, Power steering fluid, brakes, coolant, transmission fluid, wipers, lighting, belts, hoses, battery cables, cv boots, exhaust system. Carfax reported that oil and filter were changed.$95.04Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
5/2/200548,776Timing belt, Alternator belt, Compressor belt, Coolant, Timing belt cover, Head cover gaskets, Drive belts, and water pump replaced. Resealed cam plugs, were leaking oil.$1,669.56Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
3/7/2005-Carfax reported the spark plugs were replaced.-Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
11/10/200447,813Wheels aligned. New tires. Carfax reported that rear brake pads, air filter, light bulbs, two new tires were mounted and balanced, and all four wheels were aligned.?Scholfield Auto PlazaKansas
10/25/200446,000Title updated. New owner reported. Loan/lien reported.-Kansas Motor Vehicle Dep'tKansas
9/2/2004-Vehicle purchase reported.-Kansas Motor Vehicle Dep'tKansas
12/26/2000-Title updated.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
12/3/199934,490New SOP Center Console cover installer. Replaced trim around center console and radio. Finished pelling(?)$0.00Ferman on FloridaFlorida
9/14/1999~33,000Engine oil, drain plug washer, and oil filter replaced. Tire pressures, fluid levels, belts, hoses, and front suspension inspected. Electric Steering not working, SOP control unit replaced.$26.76Ferman on FloridaFlorida
4/23/199931,238Recommended 30,000 mile service performed: Body hinges lubed. Transmission serviced. Valves adjusted. Inspected belts. Flushed and replaced coolant. Plugs, cap, rotor, brake fluid, a/f, f/f (?). Clutch adjusted. Tires rotated, wheels aligned. Wipers replaced. Battery, antenna, differential, and suspension inspected. Head gasket and cylinder head gasket replaced. Fuel filter replaced. Engine oil, drain plug washer, and engine oil filter changed.$623.32Ferman on FloridaFlorida
11/24/1998-Passed emissions inspection-Florida Inspection StationFlorida
7/1/199825,257Recommended 22,500 mile service performed: Engine oil, drain plug washer, and oil filter were replaced. Body hinges lubed. Inspected: Parking brake, brake lines/hoses. brake pads, exhaust system, steering system, belts and hoses, antenna, suspension, and emission system. Made sure the clutch was properly adjusted, rotated and balanced the wheels/tires, checked all fluid levels,$89.98Ferman on FloridaFlorida
3/10/1998-Title updated.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
3/4/1998-Passed emissions inspection-Florida Inspection StationFlorida
2/6/199821,396Right rear wheel bearing replaced. Engine oil, drain plug washer, and oil filter all replaced. Trunk struts replaced, old ones would not hold open.$104.99Ferman on FloridaFlorida
1/20/199820,730Car serviced. Wheels aligned.$167.15Esserman AcuraFlorida
5/14/1997Passed emissions inspection-Florida Inspection StationFlorida
6/10/1996-Title updated. Loan/lien reported.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
6/3/19962,408Odometer reading reported-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
12/5/1995-Title issued to first owner. First owner registered the car as a personal vehicle. Loan/lien reported.-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida
11/13/199542Odometer reading reported-Florida Motor Vehicle Dep'tFlorida





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The following is my understanding of certain issues:

-The brake fluid needs to be flushed and replaced.
It sounds like you need a new master cylinder. Pumping the brakes shouldn't help if there is just air in the line, but if the master is leaking, pumping can help.

-There is a sudden, loud increase in wind through the top window seal at 90+ mph.
The windows can be adjusted, and it sounds like they need to be. It's a fussy process from what I gather. You can read Kaz's thoughts on it on his blog at www.nsxcb.co.uk

-It sounds like there might be a misfire at idle and up to 2-3000 rpm. There is a low constant throb that increases with the throttle. When I am revving higher or have floored it, it doesn't really sound like there is a misfire. The car feels fast enough that I don't think there is one, but my dad's mechanic though there might be one, so I am wondering now.
At 4k, the fuel-pump resistor is bypassed by a relay so that can be a telltale rpm. But at 2-3k I don't know what the issue may be.

-Whistle at partial (10-15%) throttle.
This sound is characteristic of the K&N filter. Put in a paper filter and see if the sound is still there. Easy test for $12.

-Front end rattle over bumps.

-Clicking noise when car is started. Seems to be either the A/C or the defroster. It goes away after a few seconds, but has started increasing in time recently.
Have you heard the ABS pump? It could be that sound, and when it increases in frequency that is a sign of the ABS system needing service. Do you only ever hear it when starting?

-I want the injectors/coils inspected to make sure they all work completely.
Yes, for sure have the injectors sent to RC Engineering to be cleaned. Inspect the rubber boot and retention force of the coil on the plug.

-I have not checked the transmission fluid myself, but the inspection before I bought the car did and it was fine. I want it replaced.
Seems like a good idea to replace it.

-The timing belt and water pump likely need to be replaced.
For sure, based on age. This should be a priority.

-The rear window seems dark, it is a bit fuzzy to see out of and seems darker than the other windows. I do not know if this s normal, or if the defrost layer is wearing out and discoloring, or what.

-The shift knob will twist on the stick, if I use even a moderate amount of force, and it happens on accident. This should be tightened.
You can pull the clip on the boot down and tighten the knob a turn or a few, then push the clip back up.
 
First off, I agree with JWM's comments so I won't dwell on the points he covered.

My initial reaction was that your oil consumption seems high. My car has slightly lower mileage and has no perceptible oil consumption or loss between oil changes; however, I don't have any oil leaks and I don't experiment with 140 mph on public roads. If you spent any significant amount of time at elevated speeds, that plus your oil leaks probably put your oil consumption in the acceptable territory.

My personal opinion is that oiled element air filters like the K&N are bad news. Users end up over oiling them which results in a gooey mess in the throttle body and fouled IAT sensors. The OEM paper air filter works just fine on an unmodified engine.

You referred to misfire. I have found that when you are inside the car, the NSX can have a rather manic pounding noise (or throb) at idle and slightly above idle, particularly when it is cold. The pounding sound reduces slightly as the engine warms up. To me, it sometimes sounds like a main bearing going bad. However, I have had my car 5 years and the 'pounding' has always been there and the engine works just fine. You said the car runs fine at high speed. Generally, misfires will emerge as the fuel density increases in the cylinder at higher loads. If you don't have a misfire at pedal to the metal, then I think you are probably OK. I think what you are hearing is an NSX 'thing' and I wouldn't worry about it. If you end up generating an error code saying misfire, then that is something to check out.

You refer to clicking when starting up the car. If the noise seems to originate from the center console area, type in Aspirator fan in the Prime search bar and read away. Noisy aspirator fans are an exceedingly common problem on the NSX.

Going through your maintenance list, my observation is that your car has had a lot of 'not regular' maintenance on it, at least when I compare it to my maintenance records where there has been nothing other than the scheduled maintenance on the car except for the trunk struts and a front end repaint to deal with the effects of a previous owner who did a lot of driving on gravel roads. Makes me think that the car was 'previously enjoyed' to use the euphemism of the local hot rod guys. That said, the NSX is pretty tough and yours will probably be running just fine 5 years from now. But, it is probably good that you are keeping an eye on things.


Edit:
I just noticed that you referred to pedal fade. Air in the hydraulic system would normally result in little pedal resistance and, unless the amount of air was very small, not much stopping power because of the inability to build up significant hydraulic pressure in the system. If you press down on the pedal and you get initial resistance; but, the pedal then continues to gradually sink to the floor, you could have failing seals on the master cylinder piston which are allowing leak back and gradual loss of pressure. Given the age of your car, a worn master cylinder would not be uncommon. If it was air in the system you need to ask how it got there unless it was residual air from some recent maintenance on the brake system. Air does not magically appear in the brake system. If its a worn MC, this is an issue you need to address as the seals could fail completely leaving you with no brakes.

Replacing the oil pan gasket should not be that expensive. If by crankcase oil leak you meant crankshaft oils seal replacement, then I can see that being expensive. Before engaging in that bit of spending, I think I would have the engine thoroughly cleaned (removing all traces of oil and dirt) and then watch it like a hawk to determine where the actual oil leaks are coming from. As an anecdotal observation, I have not stumbled across and references to crankshaft leaks while trolling NSXPrime. Valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket - yes. With a clean engine and clean oil, there are UV dyes that you can add to the oil which will facilitate the location the source of the oil leak.

Are you by any chance using synthetic oil? Some (not all) synthetics had and perhaps still incur a problem with dimensional changes in seals. If you are using synthetic, switching to a conventional 10W30 might help with the oil loss problem. This would fall into the class of a definite Hail Mary attempt!

You ask about clutch replacement. My car has in excess of 70k miles with the original clutch showing no external signs that it requires replacement. Two clutches in 80,000 miles seems extreme; however, if one of the previous owners did a lot of clutch slipping to get smooth engagement on take offs, then it is possible that the clutch might be a candidate for replacement. Personally, I would be inclined to delay the decision on the $2000 oil leak repair until I was absolutely sure that it was the crankshaft seal and that it was becoming a significant issue. If you need to do the seal, then you can evaluate the clutch condition once it is out. Don't use the opportunity to replace the clutch as part of the rationalization to go in and fix the seal.
 
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Congrats on the purchase. The whistling is due to the K&N filter and is no big deal. On the other hand, you have excessive oil consumption. I owned my NSX for 15 years and never had to add even a teaspoon of oil between oil changes, even at high speeds for extended periods of time on long trips.

Enjoy the car.
 
Thank you for your feedback! Thank you Old Guy, as well. I will have these things considered when I take the car in. Very much appreciated! I will post about how the service went.
 
Okay, so I have had the car serviced by the Indianapolis Acura dealer. I asked them to go through the whole list of issues that I had found, and the car came back much improved, and the invoice was very close to the estimate.
The front end rattle was the suspension mount, it seems that the washers and/or bearings wore out and created a looseness. They remounted and added some new washers to this and the rattle is gone now.
They recommended I buy and use Shin Etsu grease for the squeaky rubber of the hard top and for the door lining.
They found that the front swaybar was off center, with one side's end link hitting the shock and the other side end link loose. They replaced both of these end links. I asked for the old parts, and they look fine to my amateur eye, but they could just be worn out of tolerance?
They found that the right inner tie rod was worn out and I had it replaced.
The car handles noticeably better now, without a doubt. The steering is freer and easier, and the front feels more active and responsive when turning.
I had all the fluids replaced in the car: Oil (and filter), transmission, brake, coolant. I'm not sure if they did any others.
I had them perform the 105,000 mile service on the car, which was the next big service interval for the car, given its service history.
I will update the service history with the exact details and prices after work. The total bill was $2500. $630 in parts, and $1750 in labor.
I still need to have the timing/drive belts and water pump replaced, and that will be another ~$2000, and I will do it as soon as I pay this repair bill off, this winter.
 
all that stuff you had done I would have done the Timing belt and water pump first. the other stuff doesn't mean anything if the belt breaks or looses timing due to slipping a tooth in the belt

low miles sure........ AGE= death of timing belt.

these guys sell of their 5000 miles NSX..... sure it low miles but the they forget the timing belt is like a tire it has a life span. after 7 years your are rolling your dice like at a casino

good luck
 
Its not going to blow up. You can still enjoy driving it before snow hit our state. Not like you are going out and beating on it.
 
Timing belt and water pump should always be first. Heck, it was really the only thing I was looking for in the maintenance history of my car. It was great seeing regular dealership oil changes, but receipts from SOS for the timing belt/water pump made me comfortable on a high mileage engine.
 
Florida car = never seen snow that belt is gonna shrink and break.

you cant say your were never told. better to be safe than roll the dice. thought never heard of a belt breaking on an NSX before because the owners replace them out of fear.

so you have been told.
 
My timing belt in my 99 3.0 Accord had over 220K miles on it so the timing belt will probably last for a lot longer, but it's just not worth not replacing it. Feel up to doing the timing belt and water pump yourself? You'll save a bundle. Another thing to consider is upgrading to the SOS lost motion assemblies.
 
Might as well do the crank pulley and get the shield to go with it.
Yup. I would also recommend doing the cooling system hoses. It looks like they were last done ten years ago, so it's time. And you may as well do them at the same time as the water pump and timing belt, to save labor and coolant.

- - - Updated - - -

The car has TSW wheels on it, and Yokohama tires. I am wondering what the best performing size of wheel and tire are.
Size itself doesn't matter much for performance, except as it affects tire availability. You can get some really great tires (like the Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec or the Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R) in sizes for 17"/18" wheels (215/40-17 and either 255/35-18 or 265/35-18). If you are willing to trade off a slight amount of performance (still really good though) for longer treadlife, the Kumho Ecsta LE Sport and Pirelli PZero Nero GT are also available in those sizes. There are also some really good tires available for 16"/17" and 17"/17" wheels. Tire availability is more problematic for 18"/18" and 18"/19" wheels.
 
Took the car to Ed Martin Acura in Indianapolis for service. General Inspection performed, car was washed and vacuumed, front suspension struts were disassembled to find a clunking noise when initially driving the car over bumps. Missing washers were installed for a lower bushing for the top strut, and the noise is gone. The front sway bar end link on one side was rubbing into the suspension strut, and the other side end link was loose. Both end links were replaced due to wear. I kept the old links. The right front inner tie rod was loose, it was removed and replaced due to wear (I kept the old tie rod as well). The car then had its wheels and suspension aligned (via Infra-red). The leaking oil pan gasket was replaced. I had the 105,000 mile service performed, which includes Brake Service (brake fluid replaced), replacing the coolant, adjusting the valves, replacing the oil and oil filter. The right axle/transmission seal was leaking, and it was replaced. The right axle outer rubber boot is torn, and the dealer said that that boot is only available if I purchase the whole axle set for that side of the car, which was too expensive for me at the time. The transmission was serviced (trans fluid was replaced). This all cost $2435.60 ($622 parts, ~$1750 labor)

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I also replaced the spark plugs in the car. I used new NGK PFR6N-11's.

That is good to know about the wheels and tires, thank you!
 
Had the brake system reinspected, because the slow, intermittent pedal fade is still present. Dealer recommends a new Brake Master Cylinder (~780.00, or ~150 if bought online). Insides of both front tires appear more worn, dealer recommends aligning the car at next service (car was recently aligned...). Rear brake pads have 6mm of wear left, fronts have 8mm. Water pump, timing belt cover, timing belt, alternator belt, and compressor belt all replaced. coolant added. $1950.00 $890 in labor, $970 in parts.

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The right axle outer rubber boot is torn, and the dealer said that that boot is only available if I purchase the whole axle set for that side of the car, which was too expensive for me at the time.


This does not make sense. Boot is available 42017-SL0-000.

HTH,
Larry
 

The right axle outer rubber boot is torn, and the dealer said that that boot is only available if I purchase the whole axle set for that side of the car, which was too expensive for me at the time.


This does not make sense. Boot is available 42017-SL0-000.

HTH,
Larry



Very good, I am glad to know! Thanks!

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Good to see you found a good day to take it in. Getting rarer in Indy. I took mine out last weekend for a fun drive.

Yes, I got lucky!
 
I am not sure if i should buy a Brake Master Cylinder from the Acura Dealership ($425.00 for the part itself), or buy one aftermarket online for ~$200.00. I figure people are going to say that going with the OEM part is the safest bet, but I am wondering if it is worth the extra cost? I am also wondering if there are any higher performance master cylinders than the stock one, and what higher performance means for a master cylinder, and what they cost? I found this for sale too: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/oe-acura/46100sl0954

I've decided that it will be a lot more affordable for me to have the TSW Snetterton wheels repainted to gold, instead of selling them and buying a new set of gold or white wheels. I don't think that set of wheels would look good in flat white, and that the stock 6 spoke wheels would look better in white. I am not sure what shade of gold yet, and I could use some paint code recommendations too!
 
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I am not sure if i should buy a Brake Master Cylinder from the Acura Dealership ($425.00 for the part itself), or buy one aftermarket online for ~$200.00.
I'd buy the OEM one from Tim at Acura of Peoria for $302. I think he waives shipping charges for NSXprime members but you may have to phone him to verify.

 
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