Hi,
I posted an topic earlier already, but did not get any reply.
Now i have more data, but since my NSX is in for 100K KM (incl. clutch, timing belt, pump etc.) service, i need a quick advise.
I noticed that my diff. is sometimes not locked when going through a corner, it was much better before (sugestive??). When pushing it hard there is enough lock on it though. It's just that when it's wet, it is harder to get both wheels loose tracktion, there is only one wheel 'spinning'.
I also noticed that in sharp bends the wheels don't skip anymore (sorry for bad explanation, but i mean the difference in rpm of the wheels that is limited by the diff. resulting in skipping from a tire)
The technical manual states then on the diff-test, the torque readout should be inbetween 60 Nm and 130 Nm, this aplies for a new car as well.
The torque for replacing the diff-plates is below 30 Nm.
Here it goes, mine was 75 Nm.
Whats up on this one?
I do have to note that my tires are wider then normal (255/35/18), and the wheels are also a little offset to the outside (looks good though), by using very small spacers (which might have been used for correcting the ET-value off the wheels), i don't know, coz i bought the car with them on.
I don't know if lowering the car affects these numbers as well, but i'll suppose not significantly.
Please let me know your thoughts on this.
It's just that it will cost a lot of $$$ to replace, but when i find out later that i have to replace them, it's will be more $$$, since the clutch will be done now as well.
1993 NSX
Black/black
I posted an topic earlier already, but did not get any reply.
Now i have more data, but since my NSX is in for 100K KM (incl. clutch, timing belt, pump etc.) service, i need a quick advise.
I noticed that my diff. is sometimes not locked when going through a corner, it was much better before (sugestive??). When pushing it hard there is enough lock on it though. It's just that when it's wet, it is harder to get both wheels loose tracktion, there is only one wheel 'spinning'.
I also noticed that in sharp bends the wheels don't skip anymore (sorry for bad explanation, but i mean the difference in rpm of the wheels that is limited by the diff. resulting in skipping from a tire)
The technical manual states then on the diff-test, the torque readout should be inbetween 60 Nm and 130 Nm, this aplies for a new car as well.
The torque for replacing the diff-plates is below 30 Nm.
Here it goes, mine was 75 Nm.
Whats up on this one?
I do have to note that my tires are wider then normal (255/35/18), and the wheels are also a little offset to the outside (looks good though), by using very small spacers (which might have been used for correcting the ET-value off the wheels), i don't know, coz i bought the car with them on.
I don't know if lowering the car affects these numbers as well, but i'll suppose not significantly.
Please let me know your thoughts on this.
It's just that it will cost a lot of $$$ to replace, but when i find out later that i have to replace them, it's will be more $$$, since the clutch will be done now as well.
1993 NSX
Black/black
