Viper Keyless Entry - Works but doesnt arm/disarm factory alarm

[Speedthrill04]

Ok...does anyone know the wiring scheme to enable the factory alarm with an aftermarket keyless entry? The keyless entry (Viper) works perfectly fine...how do I splice the lock - unlock signal into the security module without frying either unit? I know someone has to know this.... arghh..... :smile: Thanks in advance!!

Joseph

 

[warren1205]

you can always disconnect the hood switch.

 

[MLmotorsport]

you can always disconnect the hood switch.

I believe Joseph is looking for a way to mate the two systems. The factory system is already inop so disconnecting the hood switch won't change anything. I also have a Viper system and would like to know this myself. Basically I'd just like the door mounted security LED (next to the lock knob) to flash when the doors are locked and the car is armed. I *think* this may be what Joseph is looking for as well.

 

[drew]

I would try coupling up the aftermarket alarm un/lock output(s) with the OEM Security Unit un/lock input(s).

I suspect the inputs are looking for 5v and the aftermarket alarm outputs are 12V....so you'll have to get out a couple of resistors to make the proper connection (or fry the Security Unit).

How did you interface the aftermarket alarm with the existing power-locks?

 

[D'Ecosse]

I don't think that's a valid concern on the 12V / 5V thing drew - think about it, the OEM NSX lock & security systems are both 12V based logic. Besides, it's a 'low' (ground) output anyway to trigger these functions.

I just tie my after-market alarm outputs into the signals that are common to both the door lock/unlock & the security arm/disarm inputs. Then you get both functions with the same signal.
Both After-market & OEM arm with the after-market remote (the door security indicator flashes) - my OEM also has the after-market OEM disable connected to turn off the OEM security when using the remote start; however car remains locked & the after-market remains armed.

At the security module connectors:
Arm/lock input - splice to grey/white wire on 22 pin connector
Disarm/unlock - splice to green/yellow-2 wire on 16 pin connector (don't mix up with green/yellow-1!!!!)
OEM disarm - splice via diode to green/yellow-1 wire on 16 pin connector
Ignore the last one if you don't use a remote-start.

Make sure you identify correctly which is green/yellow-1 & which is green/yellow-2 per the lcoations shown in the diagram below.
Note that green/yellow-2 is the one on the corner of the bottom row - green/yellow-1 is two more pins further inboard of that.

This is for the Crimestopper as far as the input colour wires and termination connectors are concerned, but the connections/colours at the security module are valid for any alarm system.
(The other connections on the top are used as input triggers into the after-market alarm brain)

 

[D'Ecosse]

These are the inputs that are used in electrical schematic:
You can see why I choose the ones that are common to both functions.

 

[Speedthrill04]

D,

Currently attached to grn/yellow (unlock) grn/white (lock) to lock and unlock the doors but it does not arm/disarm the oem alarm nor does it allow it to be armed via the key when the viper brain is plugged in. I might add that it locks/unlocks both doors with one click. When I unplugg the viper brain, the key OEM arm/disarm works fine.

So I guess what your saying is to splice the gry/white with grn/white to lock/arm and splice the grn/yellow iwth grnyellow-2 to disarm/unlock? Currently I dont believe its spliced into the security module..only the pdlcm which would make sense that it doesnt arm/disarm.

Finally, in a previous reply, someone brought up amps...is that a concern or is the 12v signal all good and we are just rerouting the signal to the appropriate port of the security module? I dont want to fry the security module

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Arm/lock input - splice to grey/white wire on 22 pin connector
Disarm/unlock - splice to green/yellow-2 wire on 16 pin connector
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks,
Joseph

 

[D'Ecosse]

D,

Currently attached to grn/yellow (unlock) grn/white (lock) to lock and unlock the doors but it does not arm/disarm the oem alarm nor does it allow it to be armed via the key when the viper brain is plugged in. I might add that it locks/unlocks both doors with one click. When I unplugg the viper brain, the key OEM arm/disarm works fine.

So I guess what your saying is to splice the gry/white with grn/white to lock/arm and splice the grn/yellow iwth grnyellow-2 to disarm/unlock? Currently I dont believe its spliced into the security module..only the pdlcm which would make sense that it doesnt arm/disarm.

Finally, in a previous reply, someone brought up amps...is that a concern or is the 12v signal all good and we are just rerouting the signal to the appropriate port of the security module? I dont want to fry the security module

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Arm/lock input - splice to grey/white wire on 22 pin connector
Disarm/unlock - splice to green/yellow-2 wire on 16 pin connector
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks,
Joseph

Read my post again & look at the schematics I linked
note also that there are multiple green/yellow inputs.

You don't splice the grey/white WITH the green/ white go to the grey/white INSTEAD of the green/white - follow the signals across from those green/yellow-2 & grey/white inputs and you will see that they feed BOTH the door lock module AND the Security module.
(I actually have the inpouts identified with green & blue inputs marked 'lock' & unlock')
The unlock should be fine (assuming you used the green/yellow-2) - it couldn't disarm the OEM before because it wasn't arming. Now that you will be arming with the grey/white, the green/yellow will disarm.

There is no problem with any significant current on these inputs (they are actually ground sinks)

 

[Speedthrill04]

Ok......I will try that and get back to you all.....thanks for the input bro!! ---- Gotta love this site!!!

 

[Mpire]

Ok, I am sure that this has been beat to death by a few people, but I have to chime in and ask a question or two. First, I am replacing my factory speakers and amps with some JL audio stuff. Nothing too crazy. I have the wires run and I have made a custom harness to intercept the signals going to the door speakers, etc. In the process, I am throwing in a cheap commando keyless entry system. I have had two of these in my beaters for more than 5 years, and for $30 bucks, its a great deal. Anyways, two wires to hook up. The wire that grounds the lock wire, and one that grounds the unlock wire. Thats done.

I am using GRN/YEL2 to ground for disarm/unlock and GRY/WHT to ground for the arm/lock. Now I get nothing when I arm the system. The contacts are good, etc. I am assuming that the harness I installed between the factory headunit and factor harness eliminates the ground in the head unit, so maybe thats why its not working? Also, I have no door panels, glove box, center console, etc installed right now. What sensors would I need to re-attach to make this work? I soldered and shrink wrapped all my connections so I know that they are solid. I have also tested them and the system is working properly, but nothing happens.

Any ideas?

 

[Mpire]

Oh, totally off topic, any way to get an aux input into the factory stereo system?

 

[D'Ecosse]

I am using GRN/YEL2 to ground for disarm/unlock and GRY/WHT to ground for the arm/lock. Now I get nothing when I arm the system.

Are you saying it locks/unlocks just doesn't arm/disarm?
Or that it doesn't operate the lock either?

Quick suggestion if it's the former since you say your car is all torn apart - is your hood up? It won't arm in that mode!

If it doesn't operate the lock either it may not be getting a good enough ground sink. I found for some reason I had to use relays to ensure a solid sink to ground to operate from my Crimestopper unit effectively.

 

[Mpire]

Ok, I grounded the head unit security pin. Now its doing something.

It now arms (light starts blinking) and locks the doors just fine. It also disarms the factory system (the light stops blinking) but it doesn't unlock the doors.

I guess I am going to connect it to the door lock module to unlock the doors as well? I am definitely grounding GRN/YELLOW #2 on the bottom corner. It definitely disarms the alarm, but does not unlock anything.

While on the topic... Where can I tap the trunk unlock wire at?

 

[Mpire]

Just to add to the confusion...

I removed the security module and tried it again. It locks the doors and unlocks the doors just fine, but of course the car will not start without the security module. Any ideas out there?

Ok, I put the security module back, now it locks and unlocks just fine, but I have the door panels completely removed.

Maybe it will just start working when I put the door panels back on?

 

[Mpire]

Ok, so to add to the drama. I plugged the security module back in, and it works fine for about 10 minutes. Then it stops unlocking again. Back to square one.

I am confused. Anyone care to weigh in on this one to tell me whats going wrong?

Could it be that I don't have all the plugs connected on the doors? I am going to button those up and hope that it solves the problem.

Lock/Arm works great. Disarm works great. Unlock doesn't do anything at this point.