MAJOR STONER said:
Has anyone actually done this?
I know the Zanardi coupe has the one-pane glass, but is it a special pane to fit better, or just an ordinary (non Zanardi) pane with special fitments?
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Weight Reduction
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Has anyone actually done this?
I know the Zanardi coupe has the one-pane glass, but is it a special pane to fit better, or just an ordinary (non Zanardi) pane with special fitments?
As far as that bumper goes....I've heard that you really only save under 20lbs and thats for both bumpers. This was discussed in a previous post. I am pressed for time, otherwise I would have done the search.
Personally...I love hearing the engine as much as the next guy...but I also like talking to the person next to me and hearing the music blast from my crappy Bose system (I use the word "blast" sparingly
)
I don't think the weight savings justify the loss of comfort and convenience. JMHO...I mean if you really wanted to strip you car bare you have to ask yourself what you're willing to lose. For example. If I lived in an area that has unusually nice weather (don't know where that might be) I would consider removing the climate control system. But, since it almost always scorchingly hot and humid in MyAma...Its not worth the loss of comfort.
Personally...I love hearing the engine as much as the next guy...but I also like talking to the person next to me and hearing the music blast from my crappy Bose system (I use the word "blast" sparingly
)I don't think the weight savings justify the loss of comfort and convenience. JMHO...I mean if you really wanted to strip you car bare you have to ask yourself what you're willing to lose. For example. If I lived in an area that has unusually nice weather (don't know where that might be) I would consider removing the climate control system. But, since it almost always scorchingly hot and humid in MyAma...Its not worth the loss of comfort.
PorknBeans, that is some good and useful info.
Saving about 10 lbs per bumper for $1500 (750x2) would not be worthwhile for me. That's the kind of useful information that make boards like this so useful. Thanks.
It appears that after what I have already done, every other move to cut weight would cost $$$.
As far as the Lexan divider or single divider window is concerned, the weight savings are minor. The rear double window with vacuum seal prevents fogging and excessive noise and I feel it is worth the slight weight it add.
The carbon fiber engine covers, even the "cheaper" versions at Science of Speed is $595 plus shipping of about $70 (to Texas) for a weight saving of about 10 lbs.
The TAITEC GT exhaust at SOS is a very light 16.1 lbs for $995 plus shipping and gives an almost 26 lbs weight advantage.
The Sparco Roadster seats (a pair) plus sliders and brackets are about 25 lbs each (15lbs+10lbs) and cost about $1300 or so plus shipping. When I picked up my car in Fort Lauderdale a few weeks ago, I drove nonstop for 17 hours and covered the roughly 1200 miles on the OEM seats. These OEMs are extraordinarily comfortable and it would be difficult to get seats to compare with these. Considering that the OEMs are so comfortable and are power adjustable and leather appointed, the weight of 40 lbs does not seem all that bad.
Saving about 10 lbs per bumper for $1500 (750x2) would not be worthwhile for me. That's the kind of useful information that make boards like this so useful. Thanks.
It appears that after what I have already done, every other move to cut weight would cost $$$.
As far as the Lexan divider or single divider window is concerned, the weight savings are minor. The rear double window with vacuum seal prevents fogging and excessive noise and I feel it is worth the slight weight it add.
The carbon fiber engine covers, even the "cheaper" versions at Science of Speed is $595 plus shipping of about $70 (to Texas) for a weight saving of about 10 lbs.
The TAITEC GT exhaust at SOS is a very light 16.1 lbs for $995 plus shipping and gives an almost 26 lbs weight advantage.
The Sparco Roadster seats (a pair) plus sliders and brackets are about 25 lbs each (15lbs+10lbs) and cost about $1300 or so plus shipping. When I picked up my car in Fort Lauderdale a few weeks ago, I drove nonstop for 17 hours and covered the roughly 1200 miles on the OEM seats. These OEMs are extraordinarily comfortable and it would be difficult to get seats to compare with these. Considering that the OEMs are so comfortable and are power adjustable and leather appointed, the weight of 40 lbs does not seem all that bad.
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Get the Flu - I lost 5 lbs this week and don't forget the other benifits:
- Get to sweat as much as a good workout 24x7
- Get to pull out your winter clothes you forgot about even if it is 100 in your house
- Get a LOT of sleep
- Get to miss a weeks worth of work (or whatever you call it waiting for the economy to turn around)
Go for it!
- Get to sweat as much as a good workout 24x7
- Get to pull out your winter clothes you forgot about even if it is 100 in your house
- Get a LOT of sleep
- Get to miss a weeks worth of work (or whatever you call it waiting for the economy to turn around)
Go for it!
Re: PorknBeans, that is some good and useful info.
Mine cost me exactly $0, which makes for a pretty favorable cost/lb ratio. Perhaps you just are not resourceful enough. I'm still looking for a front one.
shiftright2 said:Saving about 10 lbs per bumper for $1500 (750x2) would not be worthwhile for me. That's the kind of useful information that make boards like this so useful. Thanks.
Mine cost me exactly $0, which makes for a pretty favorable cost/lb ratio. Perhaps you just are not resourceful enough.
I'm still looking for a front one.
You can remove most of the body panels...
This would not be worth it for the grams or ounces saved.... J/K kennsxtasy said:
I know this question has been asked but I keep forgetting. If most of the parts on this car is aluminum, titanium, magnesium etc.., then what on it or why is it so heavy (relatively). I can't think of one or more heavy parts that can be reproduced in carbonfiber. Some newer race cars have carbon fiber chassis..
I don't think there has ever been a complete explanation. I happen to agree that the NSX is heavier than it should be. Granted, they may have saved ~500 pounds on the car due to the all-aluminum construction, but it's still 400 pounds heavier than my Integra, which is made of steel and is the exact same length as the NSX.Smoothaccel said:
My guess is that they designed the car in a way to add strength and rigidity, for purposes of structural rigidity (performance/handling) as well as structural integrity (safety/crashworthiness). So even though they used lighter materials, they used them in thicknesses that may be more than other cars, for greater strength. Gotta admit, from what I've seen about how it does in crashes, they made a darn solid car...
nsxtasy said:
I wonder if this is true or not, but the salesman at Greenwich Acura told me that the NSX is the only sports car sold in America that has a 5-star crash-test safety rating, which is the highest rating, same as those big BMW sedans get.
Anyone know how much weight is saved by COMPLETELY removing the A/C system? Including the compressor, condensers, and all plumbing that can be easily removed, as well as the fluids in the system?
Also, what about removing cruise control?
And what about ABS?
TCS computer?
Are the Taitec side-mount rails really 10lbs each?
-Mike
Also, what about removing cruise control?
And what about ABS?
TCS computer?
Are the Taitec side-mount rails really 10lbs each?
-Mike
matteni said:
ROTFLMAO
Nick, I hope your feeling better.
Mine cost me exactly $0, which makes for a pretty favorable cost/lb ratio. Perhaps you just are not resourceful enough. I'm still looking for a front one.(posted by sjs)
Alright sjs, how did you come about getting this for free?
Also, is removing 10 lbs of weight equivalent to adding one horsepower, roughly?
Alright sjs, how did you come about getting this for free?
Also, is removing 10 lbs of weight equivalent to adding one horsepower, roughly?
Yeah, I'd like to know that one too.
From what the original poster wrote, it looks like he's done most of, if not all, of the free weight reducers. Like most things in life, weight reduction isn't free. The things I'd focus more on is reducing unsprung weight and then reducing weight that would lower the center of gravity.
Thanks for the reply ken.. Hey BTW are both those cars on your avitar yours? And is the NSX lapping the integra-R or is it keeping up?
SJS you can add replacing rear bumper to your "Free Weight Loss" list.
I am becoming Obsessed with the following: Dramatically reducing the weight of my NSX, Re-designing engine mounts to have my engine sit lower, re-piping headers/exhaust to go around engine and possible out the side, and doing a full NA build by factor-X....
My plan B is to buy an older formula-one chassis and somehow put an NSX body over it. That would be a cool "sleeper"
Nothing is Impossible!
SJS you can add replacing rear bumper to your "Free Weight Loss" list.
I am becoming Obsessed with the following: Dramatically reducing the weight of my NSX, Re-designing engine mounts to have my engine sit lower, re-piping headers/exhaust to go around engine and possible out the side, and doing a full NA build by factor-X....
My plan B is to buy an older formula-one chassis and somehow put an NSX body over it. That would be a cool "sleeper"
Nothing is Impossible!
Smoothaccel said:
I would like very much to afford a vintage F1 and use it on tracks ( would also like to blast it on legal road just to see people amazement but would also have to prepare myself to lose my license and lots of money in fine if I get caught! ).
But since I wouln't like something older than 80's and preferably something around late 80's and early 90's this is over what I can afford.
Sure nothing compares with a real F1...maybe a 1987 Ford Escort GT
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shiftright2 said:Alright sjs, how did you come about getting this for free?
Also, is removing 10 lbs of weight equivalent to adding one horsepower, roughly?
No big deal. I was picking up an engine I had bought and saw the bumper leaning in a corner nearby. I asked if he would toss that in the deal and he was glad to. By the time I left he had also tossed in several of the aluminum rear sub-frame pieces, the half-shafts, a practically new OEM coolant bottle and various other goodies. Of course I had the advantage of already buying something from him, but there are lots of 95+ wrecked NSX’s out there and most are hit on at most one end.
As for 10 lbs = 1hp, that's simply a matter of math. If your car weighs 3000 pounds and has 300hp then that's about right in terms of acceleration. Of course, in cars like ours that same 10 pound loss also translates into better cornering and braking so it helps during all phases of performance.
Does removing weight effect the balance of the car? The simplest changes I see are removing the spare tire and replacing the battery. All of these remove weight at the front of the car more so than at the back. Has anyone noticed any positive or negative handling characteristics from doing this or is the weight change so small its not noticed?
Probably useless information, but I weighed a few items as I was removing them from my car:
A/C condenser assy (condenser, fan motor, shroud) 6.8lbs
each B-pillar is 2.3lbs, a CF B-pillar is about 0.5lbs
each side vent is 2.5lbs, a CF side vent is about 0.5lbs
each rear quarter panel is 7.6lbs
each front quarter panel is 4.6lbs
each front shock and spring assembly is 11.4lbs
each rear shock and spring assembly is 13.0lbs.
and if you're considering 14" Brembos:
each F-50 caliper is 9.2lbs
each 14" disc is 16.2lbs
does anyone have the weights of OEM calipers and rotors?
A/C condenser assy (condenser, fan motor, shroud) 6.8lbs
each B-pillar is 2.3lbs, a CF B-pillar is about 0.5lbs
each side vent is 2.5lbs, a CF side vent is about 0.5lbs
each rear quarter panel is 7.6lbs
each front quarter panel is 4.6lbs
each front shock and spring assembly is 11.4lbs
each rear shock and spring assembly is 13.0lbs.
and if you're considering 14" Brembos:
each F-50 caliper is 9.2lbs
each 14" disc is 16.2lbs
does anyone have the weights of OEM calipers and rotors?
porknbeanz, that is not useless information!!
That is the kind of info that is hard to come by! Thanks!
That is the kind of info that is hard to come by! Thanks!
weight reduction
i weight 150 lbs at 5'6. if i lose 30 lbs. i'll be back to my old shape in high school. cost = 0. My nsx may be a little quicker i think i am going to lose some weight. this is the cheapest way to lose 30 lbs. Taitec header and exhaust cost around $3k for 30 lbs savings.
i weight 150 lbs at 5'6. if i lose 30 lbs. i'll be back to my old shape in high school. cost = 0. My nsx may be a little quicker
i think i am going to lose some weight. this is the cheapest way to lose 30 lbs. Taitec header and exhaust cost around $3k for 30 lbs savings.I don't know which post you're referring to, but i've posted here previously that the weight savings for the rear bumper beam is only about 6 lbs. The front beam doesn't appear to have changed at all.
I have made a spreadsheet just for the purpose of calculating weight savings of OEM-parts versus after-market ones.
It will also calculate the hp/kg weight and then translate your weight savings into equivalent HP gain's compared to your car as it was before.
I might have to translate parts of the spreadsheet but I found it usefull to calculate the total weight of my car before- and after mods have been made (or just planned).
It will also calculate the hp/kg weight and then translate your weight savings into equivalent HP gain's compared to your car as it was before.
I might have to translate parts of the spreadsheet but I found it usefull to calculate the total weight of my car before- and after mods have been made (or just planned).
Sounds useful, is it difficult to post?
And I hope you are coming along well
And I hope you are coming along well
Another weight saving number: Speaker panels (4 pieces, with speakers, amp etc.) are about 7.2 kilogramm (you do the lbs math please)
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